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jolieo

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Everything posted by jolieo

  1. I only get blocked when I go to do it! It's because i am putting pressure on myself to achieve something I am not capable of yet cuz I haven't done the work to get there. Alabama - what a great idea. Writer's and fine artists do it all the time , themed block busters, but I love yours! Love to see pictures. I have to unload it make it fun again. Jolie
  2. Hi I didn't know where to post this. My tag says I am advanced. I am not. I am annoyed when I see that, cuz I am a beginner. I so how so I change that please? Thanks
  3. Hi I waitress. I find that in the extremely high volume restaurant that I work in (6 million a year) that there are people who eat almost every thing complain , then get it for free. Those who really don't like it but eat it anyway. Those who don't like it and insist on paying for it anyway. This restaurant insists that no one pays if they are not happy and aggressively pursues that policy . And they are a 6 million dollar restaurant . Their food is not he best, not the cheapest, but even the disappointed return. I know it is hard to deal with the scammers, I get quite a few. I used to feel like it was hurting the restaurant( I have worked there20 years). But I don't think so anymore. Those people who were in your tent watched you back a product after 12 years. Hell I would buy from you, Walmart might take it back but their products are quite inferior ! Standing by a product is really important. Of course there are going to be scammers, but I am an optimist and I believe there are more good people than bad. People will buy more crafted items if the people who make them stand by their crafts, I do believe that. Jolie
  4. Hi I am an artist, I work w watercolors , pastels and oils. I do not sell, but even to give away there are rules of what keeps the art together over time. Paper will discolor and disintegrate with exposure to acid, acrylics over oils won't work, etc. Every medium has "rules". Once someone really knows their medium, then you can push the medium- that is how new things are born. Then the artist masters the new things. There is a looseness of style that comes from experimenting freely, but the first 100 experiments generally look like , with tiny elements worth salvaging . Those tiny bits are what I pray for, those little mistakes or bits that give a yearning. I usually don't know how that color happened or that texture, the area around it looks horrible , but that little bit is perfect. So then I try to reproduce it not always able to. So i file it , and later I pull it out, maybe try again or see I am already there. It gives me hope because it shows my artistic growth, it shows my path, so I don't feel stagnant. It is harder to "file" ceramics. Maybe if you have a yard there could be a corner for the pieces that almost made it, or gave you a little yearning.
  5. Yes as long as you purchase one rated high enough to read your kiln temperatures. Some do not go as high jolie
  6. Just got John Britt's cone 6 book. He says a couple of interesting things. If I have it right mixing the ingredients REALLY affects the way the glaze takes. Particle size is much finer because suppliers are more efficient .here is my favorite: if mixing ingredients that don't mix in water easily, mix all the dry ingredients into a 5 gallon tub , close it up , roll it around to mix. LET THE DUST SETTLE! Pour over water that is in another 5 gallon tub( good thing you have so many) use less water than you will need, slake over night, mix and adjust next day. He says to note specific gravity for more acurate glazes. It is a really fun book, well worth the money for the photos alone, no less the recipes. He says to sieve , but doesn't say why it is so important. He did talk about particle size for dry material. Any takers? I love to know... Jolie
  7. Hi So I just got John Britts mid fire glaze book. Boy is it beautiful! So of course I am not empowered yet, some intimidated , which I should be. My question to you is: how do you deal with the toxic chemicals ? I did a search and I got a hit on magnesium oxide , I believe, and the consensus was that no one bothered with it. If you do bother with it , what precautions do you take. I am assuming on the very toxic, full ventilator, gloves,safety glasses, clothing washed separately. But the fumes! Does everyone have an out door kiln , everyone vented? My kiln is tiny, should I be saving up to vent?My kiln is in a shed , with double doors that open up . I figure I can open up the doors , blow a fan towards the kiln. Mr Britt talks of fumes being in several loads afterwards. He also talks of not not actually knowing how toxic combining , or firing or combining and firing can be because of no tests having been done. Then there is the dust that should be mopped not swept. Should nothing else be in my shed? What do you keep the toxic stuff in ? And where do you get it? Is there a book that is better on this stuff? A Google gave me a gaggle of books! Or is one just as good as another? I am paranoid, I am very leery of chemicals. I just have to know what to do. I probsbly won't dive into a bunch of toxic stuff unless I see a real need, but the dry chemicals are all a hazard by virtue of being dry and inhalable ,eye irritant etc. It would reassure me to know what you do. Jolie
  8. jolieo

    Currie Tiles

    Very nice! The test tile looks like art!
  9. Hi I tried to look up "titania", comes up as a character in W. Shakespeare's play. What is the abbreviation for please. Thanks Jolie
  10. Hi , can you send yours back and get this one: http://www.amazon.com/Rapidfire-Digital-Programmable-Controller-Beadmaking/dp/B00CUKD1UY/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt It is less money than yours after you add the other stuff and it comes programable. I am assuming that you spent 302 pounds on yours. This unit , even if you added 50 pound for tax and shipping , would come out to 365 pounds all told. You would have to adapt it for 240 volt, and I don't know if that is difficult for a high powered item, but it seems much easier if it is possible. Or if you can return yours, perhaps see if this manufacturer sells in Europe . Jolie
  11. Hi ! I would like to make a few base glazes. I would love a reliable gloss, perhaps one w/o zinc. I would like a satin. I would like a white matte or glossy. But what I really really want , is a waxy matte clear. Thank you for your recipes.jolie
  12. Thank You very much.thank you guinea!!i do shop at thrift stores, I love reuse and recycle.i am beginning to see textures everywhere. All this is fun for me. The health precautions are very serious for me ( I have had health issues , and while I feel fine right now, I know the paranoia isn't worth it). Old lady I will have to look at her list , cuz I changed my mind( I have been peeking , I just didn't understand it) I was looking over my list and a pint of matte glaze ( which sounds delicious) is $28. One glaze pen $10.85. Then a few suggested a white glaze , and a glossy one.i can't afford myself! I am about to start a new thread asking for glaze recipes. This is so much fun! Thank you all so much . Jolie
  13. Thank you diesel, this is encouraging! I just read the descriptions on the ceramic shop dry chemicals page. I want to buy a pound of everything, thank goodness I know better. I don't even know how to really make a good pot yet. So when I make a good pot, I want to be able to experiment on it. Hell I think I'll experiment on all my badly made pots. One thing seemed odd : the ceramic shop went into great detail of what each chemical did,which chemical it was similar too, where it was mined if applicable. It did not mention health precautions at all. That seemed strange , cuz I know that they are there. If they go through Usage shouldn't precautions be in there? Thanks again Jolie I am not knocking the shop, I am wondering why and it's probably a known reason.
  14. Underglazes are the color. They are similar to oxides, except oxides are reactive to the chemistry around them, either in the clay or the glaze or both. Underglazes are made non reactive. They are also usually the color they will be albeit not the same intensity. They can be left unglazed, but I think they are just decorative at that point. They probably would be in danger of abrasion or wear. A glaze is almost a glass that is melted on to the ceramic in either it's green ware state or its bisque state.glass has to be compatible in what shrinkage and expansion each glass has .if too far apart , they come apart. Clay and glaze have those same issues, plus other issues to do with the clay body. So glazes don't always work even if They are fired to the same cone . Some clays have fluxes, or chemicals that become fluxes in them and they become self glazing. Wood fired kilns can glaze the vessels in the kiln through a deposit of wood ash on the vessels. Adding salt to kiln (not electric unless made for it, ruins the elements) glazes it too. Since clays and glazes have a lot of the same things in them, clays can almost become glazes if chemicals are introduced . The purpose of bisqueing is so that the ceramic is still able to accept the colorant and the glaze but not be as fragile as greenware. Once the vessel has been fired to the point of maturity ( so it is completely fused on a molecular level) It is all but impossible to put glaze on (. I don't know about oxides or underglaze- perhaps they might take if there was tooth). Glaze would slide off I think. Dealing with clay is chemistry or alchemy or both. I think I might learn a few chants to get thing more on my side. Nah it would probably backfire! Jolie
  15. Thank you high bridge, that really helps a lot . I had no clue what I was looking at. I will take your suggestion! jolie
  16. Thank you Stephen for that quote! I find people don't need a critique, they need to learn to verbalize what it is they're trying to achieve and then maybe technical help to be able to achieve what they want to achieve .
  17. hi Some one here (thank you) previously referred me to this page : http://www.chineseclayart.com/chineseclayart/store_materials.asp Ofcourse your clay and theirs might be totally different, :0
  18. Hi What about terra sigilata? From what I've read ( i am new at this: it is all second hand) it is possible to fire terra sig to any temp above sintering, just losing high gloss at the higher temps. Also can color w oxides. IDK if it would stick to shelves. Jolie
  19. Thank you Nancy, That is helpful. I do have clay tools. I do have brushes . I couldn't understand Georgie's key but those reactions look delicious. I just din't want to buy it and have it sitting there waiting on stuff that I don't have. The matte underglaze is coming in powder form: I guess I could experiment(GASP!). Other art disciplines tend to be very purist and rigid, if one branches off too far it's no longer"archival". Test test test is a new venue for me. I would ask : what are the essential chemicals/ball clay, that a basic clay studio needs? Like the stuff for making magic water,or wax that can only be bought through clay suppliers, or frit, or ballclay, , or all those chemicals that I see all over the place in here. Will I be like OMG I need some of THAT right as I go to fire my first load , or will it be a list that can wait until I figure the first layer out info out. There is a clay shop around 40 miles from me, so if it is a slow list I can go up there in around a month or so. I don't go to Jacksonville very often, but that is where I bought the clay I have. I am just used to mail order and trying to get everything in to save on shipping. Thanks again Nancy! Jolie
  20. I haven't ever sold pottery or my art. I have sold jewelry that I made. I couldn't sign that but it was importatant for me to give the buyer a list of all materials involved. I think everything should be signed. I think we are too removed from what it takes to make everything around us. There was a point where modernity was not having a makers mark. I like signatures , makers marks. I love the idea of having the cone, maybe what glaze. A mark is different than a signature. So a signature can only be used by the person signing. A makers mark can belong to the studio- so if a student is helping or an apprentice, a makers mark can be stamped by them as well. I don't think I could sign something that a helper helped me with , but I would not have a problem stamping my mark into it. I think putting as much info as possible like also date and place is neat too. Unless it would seem weird selling last years inventory, at a show 600 miles away. That might be off putting, or not. I saw some oxide pens . I think I am going to buy a bright orange one to write info on the bottom.I love bright orange. Of course I won't need to worry about signing yet, but having a visual diary of the progression of my working time stamped w info onthe bottom will come in handy . Jolie
  21. Hi I have a few questions. I am putting my order together. I tend to agonize , partly due to low funds, partly due to wanting everything. So I have developed a practice of allowing myself to put everything ing the cart and then I whittle it down. I don't know what's essential besides kiln wash , kiln shelves, and self supporting cones. I have underglazes and clear glaze. I would appreciate any shopping list essentials, things I will need . I do have a question. I can't get into making my own glazes until I figure out just making and firing. I am not set up for chemicals, which in this florida humidity might take some figuring out. Everything either goes rock hard or melts. I don't want to deal with that yet. But I am curious, I found a matt clear glaze at the ceramic shop that sounds right up my alley. I love smooth matt surfaces. Waxy smooth. Anyway can I add mason stains to this glaze if I follow the rules? Or is this just not worth the candle? Here's what I am really asking: when I see all the potter made glazes that react and give all the unique surface treatments, and then all the store bought neutral surface treatments or even things like potters choice glazes or coyote hi fire ( I know most of the first responders do not use store bought) , will the store bought do fun stuff when mixed against each other, or will the process have neutered them? And if there is a mixed answer , is there a link I can get to? I would like to experiment w/o getting into the mix, both cost wise and space wise. My kiln is 1.4 feet so tiny. I am hopefully uploading a photo of a wash they have at the ceramic shop called Georgies wash autumn foliage, I dont really understand what the test tile is telling me. It looks like fun, cheap enough, but what do I have to have in stock in order to mess with it. Please have patience, I am slow but determined. Thanks for any help Here is the link to their page : http://www.theceramicshop.com/store/product/15255/Autumn-Foliage-Wash-4-oz./
  22. Hi handy isn't necessarily enough. The person selling the pid (the controller) will be able to help probably - but contact before buying . The controller has to be specifically matched to the kiln according to amperage etc. You might be able to operate your kiln without a controller. You would have to post the specifications . The people who are on this forum are gurus, they probably will be able to help. Sounds like fun ! I would love to see the process as you work out what you are doing, have a good time doing it . Jolie
  23. Living the dream would be: to be able to put the vision I have into actual clay and glaze. Heaven on earth would be to have it stay together. And time , lots of time to do it ðŸŒðŸŒš
  24. WOW! Absolutely Beautiful.
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