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Dick White

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Everything posted by Dick White

  1. Mark, my bad halfway... looking at the label on mine now, it is 115V DC, not 90, 1/2HP, 5 amps.
  2. Not so much about the initial question (replacing the pedal pot) but regarding the later comments about motors and voltage - dunno about what Brent was doing back when the earth was still flat, but I believe Brent motors now are 90v DC. The controller rectifies whatever design input of local AC voltage and the pedal pot instructs the controller to increase/decrease the DC voltage to the motor to make it go faster or slower.
  3. To add to that, buy one from your favorite ceramic supplier (or one of the usual suspects of online ceramic stores). In addition to the pyrometer itself, you will need a ceramic grade thermocouple. The included thermocouple with many inexpensive pyrometers is a little plastic coated nub that might be good for checking the temperature of a bowl of mashed potatoes, but useless in a kiln. Some of the ones from a ceramic supplier will include a proper thermocouple, while the ceramic grade thermocouple is an accessory purchase with others, but at least a ceramic supplier will have them. The big river in south america dot com has lots of cheap pyrometers, of course, but you're on your own as to what else you need.
  4. I have not tried that specifically, but my general knowledge of ceramic glazes is that would not work. The raw glaze needs to adhere to the surface of the ceramic body, and if there is anything in between, such as dirt, dust, oily residue from fingers, stray wax from the bottom, etc., the glaze will shrink back from that dirty spot as it melts. I would think the gesso will do the same.
  5. The probable reason it is rated to only cone 6 is the blank ring in the middle. That adds volume but no additional heat. The blank ring can be removed to improve the watts to volume ratio, but that would limit the size of things you could fire.
  6. An issue with the GG and a Shimpo wheel is that the mechanism of the GG is that counterclockwise torque (assuming a typical US counterclockwise wheel) on the base of the GG causes the inertia of the sliding top to press clockwise with respect to the base, which causes the arms to move inward on their spiral tracks. This is exactly the same as the initial tightening on the ware while putting it in the center. This keeps it gripped during the trimming. However, the Shimpo wheel stops very quickly when you back off the pedal, much faster than other brands. As a consequence, the top of the GG tends to keep some of its counterclockwise momentum with respect to the now stopped base, which has the effect of very slightly loosening the arms. It is at that point where the ware moves off center, but you probably didn't notice it happening.
  7. As I noted in this thread back in Dec, Terry is The Man Behind The Fallonator. Plumbing of the highest order meets pottery of the highest order! dw
  8. Terry Fallon is a wonderful fellow crystallier who was a gas plumber in his day job. He had some serious health issues, and so is not active anymore. His Fallonator was a ConeArt kiln with a standard Bartlett controller that used controller #4 to trigger solenoids to start a flow from a small propane bottle together with a compressor to inject air, all kept in proper balance by an automotive O2 sensor. The objective was to fire to peak in oxidation so the zinc in the crystalline glaze would not volatize, and then start reduction during the the crystal growing phase at lower temperatures. He did not make many of them before his health failed.
  9. Please be aware that the "kiln model LT-3K" is not the model number or brand of the kiln. The kiln sitter is a manual control device commonly used by numerous kiln manufacturers. There were a couple of different ways of putting the kiln sitter together, and each manufacturer used the particular model/style that fit their kiln design. LT-3K is one of them. The actual kiln manufacturer, model number, and electrical specifications should be printed on a metal plate attached somewhere on the side of the red switch case. That is the important information that a buyer will need to know.
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