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Dick White

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Everything posted by Dick White

  1. For the USA crowd - regarding blenders, the blending pitcher that screws onto the blade base of Oster and Hamilton Beach blenders has the same thread size as a standard "mason" canning jar. Measure your materials into the jar, screw the blade base on, flip it over onto the motor, and whir it until done. Then put a lid on it. I can make a 400g sample in a quart canning jar.The Waring brand blender has a different thread for its pitcher, so doesn't work this way.
  2. Elaine, LT-4 (and LT-3) is not a brand of kiln. It is the model number of the Dawson Kiln Sitter safety shutoff control on the kiln. Most manual kilns of any brand use that same device. The brand and model of your kiln should be marked on the electrical rating plate, a small metal label usually attached to the side of the switch box on the kiln.
  3. The following is a mixture of facts, speculation, and invention off the top of my head. Some months ago there was a hew and cry in several pottery-related Facebook groups about an impending demise of the availability of spodumene. Everybody was rushing to buy the last available material from their usual sources and there was much rending of clothes that they would not be able to make their favorite glazes anymore. I never saw any rigorous business analysis of the issue (other than the obvious market impact on the price of lithium caused by the huge demand of the lithium ion battery industry) t
  4. Another cause of the E2 code is a relay stuck in the on position.
  5. Some years ago our school studio upgraded to new 3" brick kilns but kept the shelves from the old 2.5" brick kilns. We use only half shelves so we were able to make it work by allowing the inside straight edge of the shelf to slightly overlap the centerline and load so that the half shelves never were at the same level. Your specific situation may be different.
  6. A canvas-covered table would not be compatible with the big Bailey slab rollers. These slab roller compress the clay by drawing it through the pair of rollers and sliding the thinned slab across the outfeed table. The tables need to be shiny and smooth so that the clay (which is sandwiched between canvas sheets or a slab mat) can slide with no resistance. A canvas-covered table would have too much friction against the sliding slab.
  7. They look like test tiles cut from extrusions. The hole allows you to hang it on a hook on a wall display.
  8. One thing I will add to the discussion about flocculating and deflocculating a slip (or glaze) is the chemical reactions are reversible. If you mistakenly over-flocculate, you can just add some deflocculant to thin it out again, and vice versa. In your case of wanting a thickened decorative slip, the issue is complicated by shrinkage on drying. A slip that has been flocculated to thicken it so it stands up on the surface of the vessel still has the same clay-to-water balance, and will shrink and crack as it dries. It is better to create a slip that has more clay in the same amount of water. Th
  9. This is not responsive to your question in the second paragraph, but about the causal issue you refer to in the first paragraph. If you put some green or blue food coloring in the wax resist, you will be able to see exactly where it has been applied. Don't use other colors as they are hard to see against some clay bodies.
  10. Check your connections and the continuity of all elements. It is possible for a kiln to reach the 1700℉ range with one element out. But it won't go much past that. Perhaps the connector to one of the elements has come loose or there is some damage to one element. For a quick test of whether all elements are coming on, slip a scrap of paper behind every element, then turn it on to some program, doesn't matter what program, for 5 minutes. Then turn it off and check the paper scraps. Any that are charred are behind working elements, any that are not charred that element did not turn on. Troublesh
  11. If your floor sags and wobbles when you walk around on it, then the wheel will wobble when someone else walks by. If your floor is steady when you walk, then the wheel will be fine too. The motor of some wheels has a bit of hum when it runs, and the wood floor may act like a sounding board and the noise will be louder than if on a non-resonant surface.
  12. As a glaze chem instructor, recipe formatting is a dicey subject. Each roll of the dice produces a different answer, depending on who you are, where you came from, and why you are here. So let's cover the basics. The total quantity of materials in a base recipe should always total to 100 or very near to it. That 100 then can be interpreted as 100 percent, or 100 grams, or 100 ounces, pounds, or tons. Each individual material in the recipe will be measured in the same unit of measure, except for percentages as percent is not a discrete unit of quantity. But that's where the notion of 100%
  13. I am not familiar with exactly what Skutt might have done to change the standard Bartlett Genesis programming in their version of it, but the stock Genesis has a checkbox to turn "Slow cool" on or off at the end of a standard cone fire. When enabled, it does a 9999 drop to 1900F and then 150F/hr to 1500F. This may not be exactly what is in M^6G, but it is close enough. Check if your Skutt device has that same checkbox.
  14. It is common that DC motors are harder to spin one way vs. the other, the Shimpo Whispers are the only ones I'm familiar with that are totally free spinning when not on. It sounds like you'll need to do some electrical diagnosis to determine if there is a controller fault or cable fault and there is no power reaching the motor, or if there is power reaching the motor, then the motor is faulty.
  15. Could you get a science department lab coat and modify the lower part of the back so that when you leave the bottom several buttons open, the long coat functions like a split leg apron but now with sleeves?
  16. Can you loosen the belt tension (and possibly take the belt partially off) so that the motor can run free? What happens now? Does the motor spin up (and change speed with the pedal)? If the motor spins up with no tension on it, then the problem is later in the drive train. If the motor hums but doesn't spin up (even with a little twist to get it started), then it's a motor problem. If the motor doesn't even hum a bit, its a controller problem.
  17. Not trying to defend the kiln manufacturers, but if they felt obliged to put 60A plugs on their power cords (which in turn would oblige us to put a 14-60 receptacle on the wall), now we are all at 4 wire configurations. Given the basic price of a kiln (and for the user, the price of the installation), another wire shouldn't be a deal killer. But then I don't own a kiln company. I just fix them.
  18. interesting discussion, Bill, always learning something new from you. Regarding the continuous draw, a manual kiln on high will be a continuous 48A draw, so the circuit needs to have 60A capacity. Even with digital controls, the relays will cycle, but I doubt an exactly-sized wire (8ga copper for 50A) inside the wall will cool enough between the 10-second cycles to mitigate the overheating. I've heard of this 125% rule not only for kilns and similar high demand heating devices, but for commercial lighting, e.g., a shopping center store with the entire ceiling of light fixtures on one circuit.
  19. Denice and Bill, the notion of needing consistent rated ampacity of everything in the circuit (i.e., 60A breaker requires a 60A receptacle, or the 6-50 plug on the kiln should not be fused higher than a 50A breaker) is incorrect. The code is not about protecting the end device (that's UL's job), but about protecting the wiring from overheating and catching fire inside the wall. For example, bathroom and kitchen circuits are required to be 20A, but the receptacles are all ordinary 5-15s. The issue with kilns and other constant draw devices that leads to the 125% rule has to do with heat dissipa
  20. The wax will make the alumina powder stay on the surfaces you paint it on until you can put it in the kiln. Then the wax will burn up, but the alumina powder will still be there. With water or just the powder, it might fall off as there is nothing to make it stick.
  21. The float is an imperative - for both of us. You don't want to lose your chamois in the throwing slurry, and I don't want to have to take the pugmill apart to pull out your lost chamois, or just as bad, find your chamois in reclaim as I am throwing. Another easy float is a common fishing bobber. A small one is enough. Poke a tiny hole using your needle tool in the end of the strip of chamois, and put the spring-loaded line clamping wire hook through the hole.
  22. I don't have one of these, so I may be wrong. What I am reading into all the comments from a few years ago is that there are two different meanings of the notion of time with this model. First, the timer dial on the kiln sitter is for the maximum time that the kiln will be allowed to be on. If you set, for example, 9 hours on the sitter timer dial, the kiln will shut of at the sooner of a) the cone inside bends and the weight drops, or b) the timer runs out. Having set 9 hours on the sitter timer, if the cone bends 8 hours in, the kiln will shut off and the timer will stop with 1 hour st
  23. I don't have any experience with cone 10 shinos as I fire my gas kiln to cone 6. In my experience with shinos at cone 6, recipes with redart will be toasty brown while recipes with only ball clay will be white. Recipes that are nominally white will turn toasty brown where thin and on a brown (i.e., iron-bearing) clay body. Recipes that have a lot of soda ash will carbon trap if reduction is started early, around cone 012, and reduction maintained all the way through. If you do all the various tricks to get streaks and patches of non-carbon-trap with a carbon trapping recipe, the same "rules" a
  24. I too used Future in the past for my saggar, horsehair, and naked raku work, but now I use Pledge Floor Care Finish. yah yah yah, I know, it's the same old stuff/new name in the North American market... (Note, despite the similar branding, this is not the spray furniture wax.) It's hard to find in stores now because nobody has linoleum floors that need weekly waxing, so I order it online from that big river in South America. I prefer it over spray acrylic varnishes because I'm a lousy sprayer. See how it runs. And runs. And runs - when I do it. So having a wipe-on product is my savior. Others
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