[Long distance moving a kiln]

1 hour ago, JohnnyK said:

I would leave it in the crate for the move if you don't plan on hooking it up at your current location...

Agree, unless there is visible damage to the crate upon arrival.  

[Dremel diamond grinding bits]

These are the ones that I have been using: https://www.harborfreight.com/50-pc-diamond-rotary-point-set-69665.html.  They are pretty good quality at a good price.

[Pugging Porcelain- achieving a decent reclaim clay with pugmill]

Hydrated Veegum T added to the clay when mixing/pugging can do wonders for helping short batches of clay.  I've used it with stoneware and porcelain bodies with good success.  Being careful not to lose any of the fine particles when reclaiming is important, but easier said than done.  Veegum T can make up for some of the loss of fines.

[Table top glaze mixer]

Maybe something like this using the drill you already have would be a less expensive approach,  https://www.amazon.com/ATPEAM-Universal-Benchtop-Holder-Adjustable/dp/B09J2GBV6Y/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=28RKJ5VR72Z0D&keywords=drill+press+stand+for+hand+drill&qid=1655396309&sprefix=drill+press+stand%2Caps%2C79&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExTkROVldYV1ZGNVNTJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjcxOTI2MTdTUzNEOE9GSDdWVyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjU4ODI3Mk1HSUNRTVRRRkI3SyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

 

[another kiln shelf question]

I've been using the nitride bonded SiC 12x24 shelves for a few years, but only at cone 6 oxidation.  I've had no issues with them, but I'm not doing cone 10 reduction either.  The one's I am using were from Axner.  They claim on their website that they are "rated for temperatures much higher than regular silicon carbide shelves".  Shipping and handling were expensive, but that's true of any kiln shelves.

["Darkening" unglazed clay]

Why not glaze the rim and fire the lid separately? 

[Need Help with Wheel Pedal Problem]

Check fuel filter and air filter too.

[Dishwasher and microwave safe pottery]

When I make a new glaze, after testing for food safety  I test for dishwasher safety.  I glaze fire a test strip with the glaze under the normal firing conditions I use, and then submerge the test strip halfway in a very concentrated automatic dishwasher detergent solution and then leave it there for 4-5 days.  I look for any changes in color, reflectivity, glossiness, and texture between the half that was submerged compared to the other half.  I also look for any color transfer to the detergent solution.   If it withstands these extreme exposure conditions, I feel confident that it will not be damaged in a normal dishwasher cycle.

[Clay Recycling Advice Sought]

Algae happens occasionally in some of my reclaim barrels.  Remove as much as you can and ignore what's left.  the residual algae will burn off in the bisque firing.

[Revisiting the pugmill decision]

I have using the Peter Pugger VPM-9 for many years, and for the majority of that time it has been adequate for my needs, mostly reclaiming scrap from production work, only rarely mixing from dry ingredients.  In the past three years after changing a major part of my operations to classes, prompted largely by Covid, the volume of scrap generated in the studio has grown tremendously.  While I wish I had a larger machine, I will happily keep using what I have and just add some more temporary storage containers for scrap and slop, mostly 30 gallon plastic trash cans.

[How to reverse a Brent Model B Wheel]

While I agree that wheel direction is more cultural than handedness, many left handed potters I know throw clockwise.   If your wife has already learned to throw clockwise, I see little point in having her relearn.  On the other hand, if she's just starting out, learning counterclockwise is what I'd also recommend.  

I inherited an old model B from a friend who is left handed and who has always thrown clockwise.  Reversing the direction involves opening the control box and switching the two wires going to the motor.  It's a pretty quick fix.  It's also a good opportunity to check the condition of the wiring in the control box, as the insulation is sometimes degraded on these older wheels and may need to be replaced.

[Heads up if you make and sell butter dishes!]

I got the same cease and desist letter from the trademark holders.  I call them French butter dishes now on the website.  I think it's a bit ridiculous that a company can trademark a name that's been in common usage for a long long time, but such is the world we find ourselves in.  It would appear that they have someone on staff whose job it is to scour the web for trademark infringers. 

Interestingly, while on a tour through the Rhine region of Germany a few years back, I spotted a local pottery shop and of course had to stop in and meet the potter and look at her work.  In her shop they were called Swiss butter bells.

[Reclaim Tray / Pottery Plaster or Plaster of Paris?]

I'm a big fan of backer board, both as a wedging surface and for quickly drying out slop.  They're readily available, inexpensive, and no worries about getting bits of plaster in your clay.

[Standard Ceramic Layering Glaze 1198]

Have you tried calling M&M Pottery Supply?  They might be the best source of information on this.

[Old Orton Controller]

I used one of these for years.  Perfectly adequate for non-esoteric firing schedules.  The  2 or 3 thermocouple options are only useful if you have 2 or 3 zones that you are controlling separately.   I saved my old AF3000 when I got new kilns with Genesis controllers and rewired the power transformer to 115V and changed the output socket to run an ancient Cress kiln  that had only a kiln sitter and runs off 115V.  Still working great.