Babs

OR you set temp for ramp 1 tF1 initially, 600°c and then down to the time, set 6hrs, doesn't seem to be a button for F2, But, set final temp wanted and time of full firing 9hrs 10 mins, and tF3 as 5 mins. Percentage F1 sat 25%

No replies. So I would. Set the temp you want in top dial, I would put in, bisque temp first, say , 1000 degrees Celcius, cone 06, or higher, 1040°C, cone 04. Put a few cone sets throughout tge kiln 07, 06, 05 if going for C06,1000°C TF3 WOULD BE A SOAK AFTER TEMP REACHED SO DEPENDS ON YOUR GLAZE, PACKING OF KILN AS THIS EVENS OUT TEMP THROUGHOUT YOUR KILN, IT INCREASES HEATWORK. So 5mins to 10 mins As the first ramp tF1, is most risky for pots, I would schedule that for 6 hrs for a bisque firing, and set time for whole firing for 9hrs, 10 mins., Have a go, can't lose, take notes . Temp reached each hour, check peep hole for colour inside your kiln. And state of cone packs when kiln opened.

Is the cone in the sitter bent at 90deg?

A photo of usual and new would give an idea as to what's hapening. Double batch and no increase to iron content?

I too have used shelf props but topped them with bits of broken shelf size of base of pot

My thoughts after reading that you can get the product on the Big river website. Great to read that there is so much love and caring in our Community.

I can hardly believe the bisque temp. 1120°C that's what? Cone 01ish, did you mean 1020? NIthing to do with your query but seems very high.

CMC GUM do the same?

Friend used to use inner tubes from various tyres, cut knotted , tied and so firth! Free

Rutile may do this, titanium dioxide opacifier, if dirty rutile may perhaps "leave behind" its impurities as temp goes up?

Hi, would you upload images and poss the glaze recipe then folk will be able to work out what's happening. Fickle nickel can cause honeys to blue in some conditions.

What cone are you firing to at present?

Do you use anything to help release the plaster from tin?

I have used it on unglazed bottom third of yunomi to get a toasty look, brushed on at bisqued stage. Be careful not to touch the washed area as the finish will be affected by this. I have only brushed, so can't comment on any othrr methods.

Well inside a functional pot would be better for hygienic reasons and to get a stable glaze where lips and food touch, it won't do anything for your problematic glaze. Could try dipping the pot in water prior to your first brush on, may alleviate the prob Dick mentioned re 1st coat applic. Or have a thinner pot of glaze for 1st coat so the surface gets fully coated. Interesting that the producer says it's finicky. Some filk drop temp after reaching goal temp. and soak to allow blemishes to heal over. Wouldn't help your elusive blue colour.

Have you used this glaze before successfully?

If firing it yourself, follow bisque ramp to 600°C then can adapt faster firing to top temp you require. If in studio ,i.e. you not in control, a bisque to Cone 04 would be fine imo

Can use a sealer end product and protect under wide verandahs...great lesson to learn re clay though, Callie. Folk here @glazenerd added laterite rubble to the clay mix!

As well, is it sitting on a suitable base? Distances from walls. I placed my"station" right next to the kiln. I fully explained the workings temps etc to classes, secondary. I erected a "fence" and I had a safety chain so noone could open the lid. Putting on whIn students left school , then there in the wee hours to check the turn off., kiln sitter. Unpack a day later, packand so on. I inherited 30 firings of previous teachers pots, adult classes as well as students, whew. Your kiln speci plates will say what cone it is capable of reaching. Have a good time.

Lots of mudbrick building and afobe in the 60's Maybe some of those books etc still around, unfired mostly. What's the climate in your area?

Another potter, Chris Campbell would be a great resource.

Is your kiln toploading? Do you use test cones?. Top shelves of top loaders can be cooler. Before altering everything, if have no cones, add a soak to top temperature, Try 10 mins to start with. Refire a failed pot in next glaze firing, on a lower shelf.

I have had a similar thing happen. I actually posted years ago. I live coastally so the rainwater added to the sodium. I took the glaze higher and added a soak . Prob solved . My glaze was a frit ,nephsy high C03 glaze, Didn't craze .

A cure used to be adding..Barium Carb to clay body if "proper" scumming. This one I'd be purting cones on shelves to get an idea of temp differences. Refiring higher would sort this I think. What is your glaze recipe? What is the temp you're firing to? Water supply?

Think the scumming pots have been fired at a bit lower temp. Can you wipe it iff and does it return?