Rockhopper

Interesting idea.  Was just looking at a CAN Weekly article about using a slump/hump mold using a 5 gal. bucket...  Didn't give it a thought, that a larger container could be used for a larger form...    Now I just have to find a round trash can - around here, they're all big square 'wheelie-bins'.

Thanks for the tips.  Already planning to bisque upside down, based on other threads I've seen here about problems with large platters.  Haven't decided whether I'm going to try to throw, or use slabs and/or coils...  Was thinking about making a wooden ring that I can attach to a piece of plywood to make a form, and use a slab for the bottom and coils for the sides - then attach a foot after it firms up.  Hadn't thought about a plaster form and throwing upside-down.

There are a lot of kiln experts here on the forums.  I'm sure one or more will respond - but you'll get the best guidance if you post a couple of pictures - especially one of the name-plate (showing model number) and one of the controls.
 

In addition to finding out if, or how much, the glaze will run,  the test tiles will let you see what the glazes look like without the reduction that takes place in raku process..  There's a good chance that without that step, they're going to look a lot different than expected - and your student may decide they don't like the results well enough to use it on the pieces they originally planned.

In addition to finding out if, or how much, the glaze will run,  the test tiles will let you see what the glazes look like without the reduction that takes place in raku process..  There's a good chance that without that step, they're going to look a lot different than expected - and your student may decide they don't like the results well enough to use it on the pieces they originally planned.

In addition to finding out if, or how much, the glaze will run,  the test tiles will let you see what the glazes look like without the reduction that takes place in raku process..  There's a good chance that without that step, they're going to look a lot different than expected - and your student may decide they don't like the results well enough to use it on the pieces they originally planned.

In addition to finding out if, or how much, the glaze will run,  the test tiles will let you see what the glazes look like without the reduction that takes place in raku process..  There's a good chance that without that step, they're going to look a lot different than expected - and your student may decide they don't like the results well enough to use it on the pieces they originally planned.

Have never tried it, but remember reading somewhere in this forum that skunk hair works quite well.  Don't recall who posted it, but they mentioned keeping a bag and gloves in their car, so they could collect such hair from road-kill when the opportunity arose.  

Have never tried it, but remember reading somewhere in this forum that skunk hair works quite well.  Don't recall who posted it, but they mentioned keeping a bag and gloves in their car, so they could collect such hair from road-kill when the opportunity arose.  

Put a single layer of Saran Wrap or similar thin plastic film over the silver bowl to protect it from possible chemical reactions with something in the clay. It is probable that nothing untoward would happen with the clay in the bowl, but don't take the chance on the unknown.

I am wondering if the folks working on new wheels at home are at a disadvantage when comparing wheels. Many of the colleges out there, and group studios equip themselves with upper line wheels, Brent C, Whisper VL, etc. Working with a 1 hp wheel as compared to a 1/2 hp or even a1/3 hp wheel is much different, as is working on a motorized kick vs a belt driven. All of them take adjustment in your throwing style, and sometimes in the adjustment of the foot pedal. It may mean you cannot crank on the wheel as much centering quickly, but finesse the clay in to center so to speak. Just thoughts, but the recent problems with centering in the large studio environment vs home seems to be problematic, and could not be in ones head alone. 
All IMHO.
 
 
best,
Pres

I would make holes before firing, into which you could epoxy two threaded rods after firing, that could then be bolted to a base. Make the holes slightly larger than the rods to allow for shrinkage and make room for the epoxy.

+1 for peroxide. Just throw a shot of it in the bucket, and it’ll take the stink down until more stuff grows. 

I read this post the other day and thought I should just let my thoughts germinate for a few days. Like Callie says it's not really unbeleafable, root of the issue is having a seed land on your slip and left alone for a thyme and given a leaf of faith it will sprout. I better stop now before I'm blamed for disturbing the peas.