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Everything posted by JohnnyK

  1. Another option might be to use a diamond tipped core drill (Amazon or Harbor Freight) about 1/4" dia or whatever size would be necessary to get the piece out whole. Drill in about 1/4" deep, then chip out the core...shouldn't be a problem if it's just on the surface. You may be able to just chip it off with a sharp wood chisel if it's just on the surface...
  2. It would be the B-23-H, Bill. I had one of those a long time ago and was able to get it to ^6 once with an electronic controller. I had gotten it used and fired primarily to 06. i finally sold it as a low-fire kiln after I got a newer ^10 Cress kiln which I never have fired above ^6. New elements or a newer ^10 kiln might be the order of the day for FINALLY...
  3. I only have experience with Amaco Velvet underglazes which fire true to color as seen in the leaves on this mosaic. The more intense colors have 3 coats, while the less intense have one or two coats under an Amaco ^6 clear.
  4. I've read before that adding 50% Gerstley Borate to the mix with H2O will help...I've also learned that putting a commercial clear over red iron oxide and firing to ^06 has some interesting results...
  5. Welcome to the forum... As a hands-on type of guy, I started with a local Learning Exchange class at my local pottery supplier which had a studio. From there I progressed to taking 3 courses at my local community college over a period of 6 years. I'm also a book learner, so I got a variety of books and have also found an abundance of videos on YouTube covering all the aspects of pottery that I'm interested in from throwing to glazing...and finally, there is this Forum which has been an unreal source of information, inspiration and support thanks to all its members!
  6. I started 11 years ago at 62, make enough money selling my wares to pay for the habit and am learning everyday!
  7. If the kiln is in good condition for a reasonable price and you can get the operator's manual, since you already have experience using an auto controller, you shouldn't have a problem!
  8. Re-firing should not be a problem, Sharon. Do you know why your kiln misfired?
  9. Since you're "pretty new to this", save it as a reminder for the period of time it takes to learn how to properly attach handles. Then archive it or toss it. I still have the first mug I made and occasionally use it. It's heavy and "ugly" compared to the work I do now but it is a reminder of my origins in the pursuit of pottery...
  10. A regular water heater for my studio...so I don't have to use the crock pot to keep my throwing water warm in the winter...
  11. Let's assume that you are going to fire the gnomes to cone 6 after under glazing. Another way you can go is with clear exterior acrylic spray... this fountain has been Raku fired with a Raku glaze and since it was going to be used outdoors, my Raku class professor, after I told her what I was going to do, thought it would be interesting to see the outcome since she hadn't seen it done before. I sprayed the fountain with 3 coats of clear acrylic and set it out. It has been in place and used for the last 3 year sand is holding up quite well.
  12. You can get even smaller heads for it for those mini-miniatures, but that model is shown "throwing", "trimming", "centering" really big miniatures!
  13. Major fail, but lessons learned. I found that the jewelry racks have to be fired to vitrification. The pics show why. These racks were just bisque fired. The holes on the jewelry pieces were just big enough for the wire to pass through and the holes shrunk to bind on the wire. So the holes have to be drilled a little bigger to keep them loose on the wire. The sagging caused the pieces to touch and fuse together... I may be able to salvage 4 or 5 pieces if I can get the wire out. I guess I'll be making new racks and firing to ^6. Then I'll test fire with a few scraps before making a production run.
  14. Major fail, but lessons learned...see Forum entry.

  15. Hey, Julie...Here is what happened to a couple of my little flowerpot gremlins...the one on the right has 3 coats RIO on ^04 bisque fired to ^06. The RIO was just a tad chalky. So I thought it would be a good idea to put a clear glaze (3 coats) and refire to ^06. The result was the mottled yellow and black one on the left. I have done RIO and fired to ^10 and the result without clear was a semi-metallic gun metal gray color that was permanent. Something to consider...
  16. Right now "testing" a set of jewelry racks I made for glazing earrings and pendants, Will know tomorrow how things turned out...

  17. Here is the latest in advancing my jewelry glazing...Rather than going out and spending a chunk of change on some manufactured jewelry racks, I decided to make my own. Hopefully the wire won't sag and everything stays separated in the kiln which is firing as we speak.
  18. As someone who is not a production potter, I just put a wet rag in the bag and close it tightly. Seems to work OK. As for slamming the bag on concrete...the slamming wakes up the platelets and tells them to align themselves and get prepared for a wonderful new life...
  19. In the mosaic that you see at the bottom of the main page or in my gallery, I used the Velvets and with 3 coats found them to be true to color at ^6.
  20. Wow!!! Just over 1" of rain in the last 18 hours. The first rain we've gotten since the middle of April...a truly welcome sight...and the snow in the high Sierra measured in feet! It's a start!

  21. Hey, lee...I am using Laguna B-Mix^5 for all of my current work which includes primarily throwing, however, I have also used it to make some jewelry stands and jewelry and it worked just fine. The stands were fabricated from 3/8" slabs. Assembly was easy and they bisque fired well (no cracks in the seams. For something a little heavier duty I'd go with the B-mix with grog...
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