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Showing results for tags 'trimming'.
Found 14 results
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I trimmed some small mugs using porcelain clay ( always a bit of a struggle for me !!!) But today noticed some became almost” impossible “to trim Am trimming without a foot ..... But found that the bottom of the mug started a “ ripple effect( if this the right term ) which continued less than half way down “ Am wondering is this due to 1) not being well centered for trimming ? 2 )Not following the inside shape Or due to some other reason ?? Kind regards Nicky
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Hello I was hoping for any help on the trimming of pinch pots on the wheel, I met another Potter at my local studio who does this and she offered to show me but we keep missing each other. Do any of you know how to do this and what kind of specific equipment or tool do I need? A plaster or bisque slump mould? What kind of bat system do you need?
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Hello, Short video hand building a small vase. There will be 3 parts. Part 1 Body Part 2 lid building and Part 3 sanding and finishing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B1VQsYSDfCo
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I used to fall into the affectation camp. Back in the day, if I could sell a mug for 6 bucks, I was pretty happy. I can throw pretty fast, and I'd throw the mug, undercut the foot slightly with a wooden knife, wire it off, and it was done, except for the handle. I'd wipe the edge with a sponge, and leave the wire marks. High volume was the key to making my ration of macaroni and cheese. But recently I got into throwing yunomis-- handle-less cups for tea and wine Most of the great potters whose yunomis I looked at used turned footrings, even if some of them were what I would call a little crude. I really liked the way these cups looked. I've always felt that a nicely turned footring was a prerequisite for an elegant bowl, but it never occurred to me before that they would work well with mugs. I tended to think stability was the big thing with mugs, so the wider the base, the better. In any case, I started looking at the yunomis I was throwing, and realized that some of the forms would work pretty well for mugs, too, with the addition of a handle. Lately I've been dividing my drinking vessel production into mugs and yunomis, both with turned foot rings. I really like them. Am I wrong to think that I have improved my forms? (I know, I know... each potter has to decide if a particular form demands a foot ring, but I apparently operate on a much more concrete form of esthetic judgement.) What are your thoughts?- 49 replies
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I'm looking for existing plans or tips to build a drying chamber for my pots. I have been for the past three years torch drying my pots to an ideal leather hard for trimming, this normally takes about 45 minutes for around 25 mugs and I'm trying to find a more efficient option that will give the same consistent results (I trim at a pretty specific stage of leather hard and torching has been the only way to consistently get there so far.) I'm basically searching for some type of humidity controlled chamber that I can leave pots in over night so they'll be ready to trim without the need for torching. My studio is very dry during winter and very humid during summer so having a small controlled environment chamber seems like the best option. Any ideas or even any existing products I might find? Has anyone made something like this? Thanks! Dan
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Hi guys! I'm looking to purchase a trimming took to help out and I've used a griffin grip before however I found the Bailey quick trim and it literally seems the same just cheaper! I was wondering who has what and opinions/recommendations! Thanks
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Anyone understand how to get such a fuzzy trim mark? Fuzzy isn't the best work, but it looks like the clay is torn rather than trimmed. Is it because there is a lot of sand in the clay? Or because the clay is really short? Or another reason? This photo is a cup made by Bandana Pottery and found on instagram. -
Hi All, I'm a high-schooler taking a Ceramics II course, and I love it! I specialize in wheel throwing and I'm really interested in fusing glass on ceramic pieces. How would I do this? My teacher recommended putting marbles in my bowls to melt the glass with the glaze, but I'm curious on what others have to say! Also, where can I either get special glass, or get marbles to melt! Write me back! Thanks, Travis
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Does anyone have experience or have tried trimming pieces without the wheel and creating a foot? I am taking a class but can't get the studio more than once a week. I want to take the mugs that I just threw home so I can manage the moisture and trim/add handles. I don't have a wheel at my house is there an effective technique for trimming off the wheel that I could employ? -
So, I am making these large bowls that have holes drilled in the bottom, inside the foot ring. The purpose is to drain liquid from fruit, salad, veggies etc. I have been using an electric drill to make said holes. The problem is, that in the drying, because there are holes across the bottom, there is a weakness and some of them crack. No matter how slowly I dry these bowls, some of them crack. Any thoughts, solutions? TJR.
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I was in the studio all day Sunday. I am having to fill a kiln with my firing partner so that I can get an order of 60 mugs out for February 5. It was a long day. I had made 12 5lb colanders. I put side handles on them. I trimmed the dozen plates that go under the colanders. I trimmed 34 mugs. My son came in at 4:00 p.m. to work on a clay slingshot that he is making. At about 5:00, I was getting tired. Still had about 20 mugs to put handles on. I said to my son;"You know, I never get tired of doing this." He said;"But Dad, that's because they are all different. everyone is a problem to solve." I looked at him and blinked, then smiled. Of course they are all different. Some are big or small, moist or dry, some handles work, others don't.I guess that's why I am still in the game. Have you heard a wise comment about your making recently? TJR. I forgot to say that my son is 16 [edit[.
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Greetings! This will be my first time posting, so I hope this question is relevant. I was in the studio today doing some trimming. Trying to create a small foot, I ended up trimming too much and went through to the inside of the bowl. I tried to salvage it by bandaging it up with some more clay, hopefully it holds up. Is there any way to tell at what point to stop trimming (taking into consideration the weight of the bowl)? I really like the aesthetic of a small foot and the visual effect of the bowl looking like it's hovering. However, I end up trimming too much when trying to achieve this effect. Thanks!
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When I first learned to throw, trimming was one of the next things I had to master. My prof demonstrated using the trimming tools and working the outside edge of the piece and then working the foot ring in, then if needed leveling off the foot ring with a needle tool. I had very little problem with this technique, as we were using Randall wheels with plaster bats. Everything dried off the bat, and so there was not cutting off from the wheel head. Crank up 3 years when I started at Penn State and using metal wheel heads and having to cut everything off with cutting wire. Sloppy uneven bottoms that would grab my tools and cause uneven pots that had difficult times getting even-plus I was still a newbie. Someone, either a prof or student showed me to use a flat blade held perpendicular across the whole piece directly over the center. By pressing down with this blade the entire bottom would be leveled out. I started to use it constantly and found that there was never any need for the needle tool leveling of the foot ring. It also made it easier to get very even areas on casseroles, plates and other wider forms. I use the technique on nearly everything unless I decide to use a wiggle wire with an untrimmed base.
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I need a splash guard for my brent wheel and my clay boss wheel for production pottery. Any suggestions? Also, what is a good way to contain trimmings from the wheel? Are there any splash guards made just for trimming?
