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  1. Like
    Benzine got a reaction from Rae Reich in Very paranoid about Silicosis   
    Speak for yourself!  I'll have you know, that I've seen every episode of House, most of them several times...
  2. Like
    Benzine got a reaction from LeeU in Very paranoid about Silicosis   
    Speak for yourself!  I'll have you know, that I've seen every episode of House, most of them several times...
  3. Like
    Benzine reacted to oldlady in Anyone know what these tiles are for?   
    maybe roof tiles for a planned dollhouse?   my imagination is working overtime here.
  4. Like
    Benzine reacted to Dick White in Anyone know what these tiles are for?   
    They look like test tiles cut from extrusions. The hole allows you to hang it on a hook on a wall display.
  5. Like
    Benzine got a reaction from Rae Reich in Not a full load?   
    Is the topic title also slang, for a person's state of mind?  "That guy isn't firing a full load!"...
  6. Like
    Benzine got a reaction from Babs in Not a full load?   
    Is the topic title also slang, for a person's state of mind?  "That guy isn't firing a full load!"...
  7. Like
    Benzine got a reaction from Bill Kielb in Not a full load?   
    Is the topic title also slang, for a person's state of mind?  "That guy isn't firing a full load!"...
  8. Like
    Benzine got a reaction from JeffK in Defloculated slip   
    Take that deflocculated slip, that your studio has, that part is correct.  But DO NOT add the epsom salt, which will just flocculate it, reversing what you want to do.  All that is doing, is giving the impression it is thicker.  It is still the same ratio of water to clay, which is why it will shrink a lot, as that water evaporates off.  
    Instead, just take some bone dry pieces, of whatever claybody is used to make the deflocculated slip, crush it up into a powder, and add it to that slip, until it gets to the thickness you desire.  Because you are adding more clay to the ratio, it shrinks way less, and is also less likely to crack.  This is also why potters use this as a "joining slip" for connecting pieces.  
    But once again, do not add the epsom salt!
  9. Like
    Benzine reacted to Pres in Why make functional ware?   
    I have just completed a few mugs for an order, and not  a single one is like the other when you consider form, surface, handle position, and glazed effect. Each is a labor of love that requires the potter to make judgments every step of the way, each leading to a different form and a different fit to the hand, and hopefully a different owner. Love the work.
  10. Like
    Benzine reacted to neilestrick in Porcelain plates breaking on glaze firing   
    Thin porcelain pieces can be ripped apart by the glaze when only one side is glazed. Are you using alumina wax on the supporting ring to keep it from sticking to the plate? If not, it could be that they're binding up and causing the cracking. 
  11. Like
    Benzine reacted to liambesaw in Porcelain plates breaking on glaze firing   
    If you only glaze one side, and use a tight glaze, it will pull the form in the direction of the glaze. If the same glaze also crazes, it will pull in that direction and cause cracks to migrate into the clay.  Try glazing both sides or firing one without glaze to see how it does
  12. Like
    Benzine reacted to Min in Defloculated slip   
    Epsom salts work as a flocculant so what’s happening is it’s making the slip look thicker but it’s not changing the ratio of solids to water in the slip. To make a thickened slip for trailing or raised slip decoration you need a slip that is low in water content so it doesn't crack or flatten out while drying.
    Darvan is a deflocculant, as is sodium silicate (which is usually used in combination with soda ash). Adding a deflocculant will make the slip “thinner” and more watery looking so you then can add dry claybody to thicken it up. 
    Add some Darvan to the slip so you can increase the clay content in the slip without increasing the water content. You just need a tiny bit of Darvan, depending on the amount of slip you have, for a cup of slip a few drops up to 1/4 teaspoon of Darvan should be enough. Give the slip a stir after adding the Darvan and the slip will go "thin" and watery looking. Now add as much powdered dry claybody as you need to get it to the thickness you want.
    Darvan causes the clay particles to repel each other so even though you haven’t added any more water the slip will be “thinner”. With epsom salts the opposite happens, the clay particles are attracted to each other therefore the slip will thicken. You can use sodium silicate plus soda ash in place of Darvan. (same principle for using a flocculant or deflocculant in glazes)
  13. Like
    Benzine got a reaction from Babs in Glaze over underglaze   
    Did it peel off everywhere, or just in spots?  Underglazes can be tricky to make, which is why many potters just use commercially made versions. 
    I've had a few issues with something similar, where an underglaze flakes off, in spots, after being fired, sometimes after the glaze firing, sometimes after the bisque.  In some cases it was right after the firing, in others, it was months to years later. 
    In most instances, I chalked it up to either a bad batch of that underglaze, or just applying it to a surface that had some type of contaminate that prevented it from adhering well.
  14. Like
    Benzine reacted to Babs in Cracking in 20 inch greenware platters   
    Grogged clay has been associated with cracking around each little piece of grog. Grog I think can weaken the clay structure..been discussed before bur dont know the relevance here.
    Throw a platter with different clay go through same process and see!
    Slow drying shouldnt worry uf drying evenly. "Found" a platter put high and safe....and forgotten.
    Took it out let it dry off and it was ok jyst saying!
    But it was on its foot sitting on a number of slats of wood for all round circulation.
    I'd fire just one of your mended platters  as this way you can put rest in bucket if your mending didn't do the job.
    Spooze plus paper may be a good choice of mender.
    Big post on it a while back re. Moistening pot etc.
  15. Like
    Benzine reacted to neilestrick in Cracking in 20 inch greenware platters   
    When throwing plates, platters, and other wide pieces, I recommend cutting the piece loose from the bat regardless of what the bat is made from, with the exception of plaster bats. Because wide pieces have further to move as they shrink, any sticking to the bat can be an issue. 4% shrinkage of a 3 inch wide cup is barely 1/8". 4% shrinkage of an 18" wide platter is almost 3/4". On plastic bats, they often require re-cutting after a day of drying because they tend to re-adhere.
  16. Like
    Benzine reacted to neilestrick in Making orchid planters/hangers   
    Unglazed pots evaporate moisture much faster than glazed pots. So if you want to hold moisture in but have the look of an unglazed pot, just glaze the inside.
  17. Like
    Benzine reacted to Mark C. in Alumina hydrate and oxide   
    Yes you could-the only down side to commecial wash is usually they add a binder (sticks to shelves) and that is bad news. I have always just tossed the stuff that folks give me.
    Since alumina is costly I would test a small amont 1st
  18. Like
    Benzine got a reaction from liambesaw in Alumina hydrate and oxide   
    Not to hijack this thread, but I thought I'd just ask this here, instead of making a whole new topic, for a relatively simple question.
    Can I add Alumina Hydrate to a simple, commercially made kiln wash?  I've got quite a bit of old, dried wash, in my classroom that I'd like to use up, instead of just tossing.  I'm fairly certain that it is all just kaolin, with nothing else. 
  19. Like
    Benzine reacted to Min in Staining a Clay Body, for Marbled Clay   
    Since stains are in effect fritted colourants (with some additions) they are going to be safer to use than raw oxides or carbonates to produce the same colours. Not knowing if your commercial glaze is well balanced is adding another variable to your question.  Correct me if I'm wrong but I seem to recall that you fire at lowfire temps? Since crazing can be more of an issue with lowfired clay and porous claybodies there is another variable. How much chrome or one of the other materials would leach into the glaze from an unbalanced or underfired glaze or from craze lines or porous clay? I don't know. I don't think there is a definite yes or no answer to your question. 
  20. Like
    Benzine got a reaction from Lisa Montoya Catlin in Thoughts on the Cress FX-23 P   
    That's one of the best "Used" kilns, I've seen, especially for that price!
  21. Like
    Benzine reacted to Magnolia Mud Research in Cracked hands   
    my recipe for cracked hands: 
    Never let the clay dry on my hands; wash with Lava soap frequently to remove the clay.
    I use Corn Huskers Lotion on my hands after throwing to rehydrate the skin.  It has no oils so leaves no resisting spots on bisqueware from my handling. 
  22. Like
    Benzine reacted to Rae Reich in kiln building   
    Don't lose heart, @Pawelpksa, starting over now with good advice will save your money and time and pots! You have been very thoughtfully building this kiln, unfortunately without the knowledge of the frailties of overheated cement and concrete. Please give your careful attention to this problem.
  23. Like
    Benzine got a reaction from Pres in Cracked hands   
    Bag Balm is great stuff, I grew up using it for a lip balm, never on my hands though.
    Growing up, the Walgreen's drug store chain, used to sell this hand healer.  It was in a clear bottle, with a white and green label.  The product was also clear, and relatively thin.  It had an ammonia-ish smell, and did sting a bit, if you had deep cracks, but did a great job.  Sadly, you can't find it anymore.  My Mom used all of her Online Shopping-Fu and managed to snag a couple bottles, but the product is discontinued.  We figure, there's got to be something like it, out there...
    I'm a fan of O'Keefe's Working Hands.  It feel it creates a good barrier.
    I also second Pres' advice, about rinsing, not washing your hands so frequently.  I saw him mention it years ago, and haven't been following it ever since.  I tell my students to do the same.  If I'm going to handle food, or touch something that needs to be "Clean, clean", I'll use soap.  But if I'm just going around the room, helping students, I'll give a rinse, after applying slip with my finger, or helping a student on the wheel.  As I figure it, clay is cleaner than most of the surfaces in the room anyway. 
    I also will reapply lotion more frequently, to act as a barrier, especially before helping students on the wheel and such.  The only time I will not apply lotion, is if I'm glazing, so I don't leave greasy, oily marks on the bisque surface. 
  24. Like
    Benzine reacted to Pres in Cracked hands   
    When I was teaching HS, and a department chair for the Art department, I had a colleague also teaching ceramics that was always complaining of cracked skin. He would get so bad they would be bleeding. This even after he had been using tons of moisturizer. I took a day to watch him my periods off. . . . he would wash his hands with soap and water every time he would get a little dirty. I told him that if he would stop washing so often and just rinse except when going to lunch, and after restroom that his hands should clear up. Yup, a few weeks later he said his hands had cleared up, and no longer a problem. Go figure.
  25. Like
    Benzine reacted to LeeU in Cracked hands   
    Mine are like that at times, including my elbows and heels.  I use Vermont's Original Bag Balm. https://bagbalm.com/ Works like a miracle. It was developed for treating cow udders, dog paws, etc. that get dry/cracked. 
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