Marko Posted October 31, 2014 Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 I have just started making from recipes I found. I am using, "Mastering Cone 6 by John Hesselberth & Ron Roy," Bright Sky Blue overlapping Raspberry on Aardvark Bee Mix 5 clay, no sand. As you can see from the image the glazes have moved and left open areas of the clay body exposed. But this did not happen with the Raspberry over the Bright Sky Blue, which I dipped each for 1 to 2 seconds, closer to 2. This also happened with the Waterfall Brown over Eggshell, "Ceramics Monthly, Oct. 2004, Central Carolina Community College." The Eggshell moved on the inside of bowl. Perhaps I had the glaze in the bowl to long as I swirled it and dumped it out? Maybe to thick? I used a Hydrometer for reading the density at 1500 on all glazes mentioned. Remember, I'm new to doing this. So please be gentle. I already feel like a dummy, but I really want to learn this. I hope I gave enough information. Thanks in Advance, Marko Madrazo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted October 31, 2014 Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 serious crawling. Did you wash the pots before glazing? Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted October 31, 2014 Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 If you put the second dip on while the pot is still saturated from the first dip, it is likely to crawl. The first dip should not be totally dry, but dry enough that the pot can take in the water of the second dip without ruining the grip of the first dip on the clay. That raspberry recipe likes to crawl. It needs to be on kinda thick to get good color, but that thickness tends to cause crawling with some glazes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted October 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 Hi Marcia, yes I washed them the day before. I usually run them inside and out under a water faucet and then leave them on my work table to dry. The weather here has been in the upper 50's to mid 60's in the morning and then about mid 80's in the afternoon. I glazed these around 7pm. Humidity is about 50-67%. But I have glazed at other times right after washing. I just figured the heat would dry them fast enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted October 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 Hi Neil, yes, guilty, I have done the dip shortly after they have been dipped first. Usually, I give them just enough drying time for me to pick them up by hand and then dipped. Perhaps, too, I did not let them dry after washing, as Marcia points out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted October 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 I am not sure how to ask this, but I was wondering. What's the best way to know when a glaze should be thick or thin? I wish other potters that put out glaze recipes would also share their methods of testing the density. Also the different ways they go about doing their test for a glaze in more detail. I am going to add these details each time I do a test. I have this inquisitive nature that won't let me off the hook till I find an answer. Lose sleep mostly, LOL. But I am soooo glad I can ask seasoned people here. Thanks. I hope others will weigh in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted October 31, 2014 Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 When you run your test tiles, do a single dip on the whole tile, then a second dip on the top half. It's the best way to see how a glaze behaves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roberta12 Posted October 31, 2014 Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 I have had this happen a couple of times. It looked a lot like your pics. Both times were when bowls had sat on a shelf for a long time after washing, and I did not sponge it off again before glazing. In my case, I think it was dust. I know some people run water over their pots to clean them, but once I was taught the sponging method, I didn't have much trouble with crawling, etc. I suppose it depends a lot on your climate. not sure, but maybe you could try sponging?? Just take a bowl of water and a clean, damp sponge and wipe off your pots in and out. Roberta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roberta12 Posted October 31, 2014 Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 Nice mug by the way, Mark! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted October 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 When you run your test tiles, do a single dip on the whole tile, then a second dip on the top half. It's the best way to see how a glaze behaves. What size tiles should I use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted October 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 Nice mug by the way, Mark! Hey thanks, Roberta. That's my good feel for today. lol. Now I can feel a little more confident. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted October 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 I have had this happen a couple of times. It looked a lot like your pics. Both times were when bowls had sat on a shelf for a long time after washing, and I did not sponge it off again before glazing. In my case, I think it was dust. I know some people run water over their pots to clean them, but once I was taught the sponging method, I didn't have much trouble with crawling, etc. I suppose it depends a lot on your climate. not sure, but maybe you could try sponging?? Just take a bowl of water and a clean, damp sponge and wipe off your pots in and out. Roberta Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted October 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 Hi Roberta, I have done the sponge in the past, but never thought it would make much of a difference. I was just thinking; get the dust out anyway possible. So I will try the sponge method again. Thanks for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted October 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 Why do I get this? I could not find an answer in the help files. You have reached your quota of positive votes for the day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babs Posted October 31, 2014 Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 YOu have clicked on teh "Like this" button to the right too many times. I think. Yes, glazing is another big field of knowledge to be gained. If this is occurrring with double dippping, I was advised on this forum to apply wax just level woth where you want the other glazee to come too, this cuts out the too thick section The blue glaze looks very thick, Neil's advice on the testtiles is the way to go. For size of these, there have been various posts about the different testtiles people use. A bit of vertical tile wit texture and plain, a foot to catch teh poss drips and to stand on like a right angled section of a pot. SOme folks make buttomns awith holes on them to hang in their studios for reference. Might be worth posting a new topic to see all the ways people do this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ayjay Posted October 31, 2014 Report Share Posted October 31, 2014 I am not sure how to ask this, but I was wondering. What's the best way to know when a glaze should be thick or thin? I wish other potters that put out glaze recipes would also share their methods of testing the density. Also the different ways they go about doing their test for a glaze in more detail. I am going to add these details each time I do a test. I have this inquisitive nature that won't let me off the hook till I find an answer. Lose sleep mostly, LOL. But I am soooo glad I can ask seasoned people here. Thanks. I hope others will weigh in. The scientific way is to measure the specific gravity of the glaze (and always make it to that figure) and time the dip - the unscientific way is to dip your finger in the glaze and see how it feels/covers/runs off your finger. http://ceramicartsdaily.org/pottery-making-techniques/ceramic-glazing-techniques/how-to-calibrate-your-glazes-to-prepare-for-pottery-glazing/ https://www.baileypottery.com/spviscosityguide.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted November 1, 2014 Report Share Posted November 1, 2014 I don't dip much but when I do I like to use the sg weight until I get comfortable with the glaze. Bisque maturity makes a difference too, more porous bisque is going to soak up more glaze so keeping a consistent bisque firing is helpful . Another thing to try is dip 2 tall test tiles so they have 1 coat at the bottom, 2 in the middle and 3 on one of the top corners. the same way on both tiles. Scratch through the glaze on one of them so you can see the glaze thickness in each section, don't fire this test tile. Fire the other one to see which thickness works best. Use the unfired one as a gauge for the next glaze session. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted November 1, 2014 Report Share Posted November 1, 2014 just read the article by pete pinell posted here in the thread about adjusting commercial glazes. it is a wonderful explanation. it looks forbiddingly long but if you go to the end and read the last 3 or 4 paragraphs about brushing glazes, you might find your answer. read the whole thing when you are really in a receptive mood. make notes and save them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted November 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2014 YOu have clicked on teh "Like this" button to the right too many times. I think. Yes, glazing is another big field of knowledge to be gained. If this is occurrring with double dippping, I was advised on this forum to apply wax just level woth where you want the other glazee to come too, this cuts out the too thick section The blue glaze looks very thick, Neil's advice on the testtiles is the way to go. For size of these, there have been various posts about the different testtiles people use. A bit of vertical tile wit texture and plain, a foot to catch teh poss drips and to stand on like a right angled section of a pot. SOme folks make buttomns awith holes on them to hang in their studios for reference. Might be worth posting a new topic to see all the ways people do this. Thanks Babs, Oh, the like button can only be used so many times. Heck, I like everyones answer. Anyway, I will try the right angle tiles as you suggested. Oh so much to learn. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted November 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2014 just read the article by pete pinell posted here in the thread about adjusting commercial glazes. it is a wonderful explanation. it looks forbiddingly long but if you go to the end and read the last 3 or 4 paragraphs about brushing glazes, you might find your answer. read the whole thing when you are really in a receptive mood. make notes and save them. Thanks oldlady, I will Google Pete Pinell. Thanks for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted November 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2014 I don't dip much but when I do I like to use the sg weight until I get comfortable with the glaze. Bisque maturity makes a difference too, more porous bisque is going to soak up more glaze so keeping a consistent bisque firing is helpful . Another thing to try is dip 2 tall test tiles so they have 1 coat at the bottom, 2 in the middle and 3 on one of the top corners. the same way on both tiles. Scratch through the glaze on one of them so you can see the glaze thickness in each section, don't fire this test tile. Fire the other one to see which thickness works best. Use the unfired one as a gauge for the next glaze session. Hi Min, and thanks for taking the time to answering my question. As you mentioned the bisque maturity can make a difference. I fire my bisque to ^03. This is what my friends over at Clayworld suggested. But I'm open to any suggestion, of course. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted November 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2014 I am not sure how to ask this, but I was wondering. What's the best way to know when a glaze should be thick or thin? I wish other potters that put out glaze recipes would also share their methods of testing the density. Also the different ways they go about doing their test for a glaze in more detail. I am going to add these details each time I do a test. I have this inquisitive nature that won't let me off the hook till I find an answer. Lose sleep mostly, LOL. But I am soooo glad I can ask seasoned people here. Thanks. I hope others will weigh in. The scientific way is to measure the specific gravity of the glaze (and always make it to that figure) and time the dip - the unscientific way is to dip your finger in the glaze and see how it feels/covers/runs off your finger. http://ceramicartsdaily.org/pottery-making-techniques/ceramic-glazing-techniques/how-to-calibrate-your-glazes-to-prepare-for-pottery-glazing/ https://www.baileypottery.com/spviscosityguide.htm Thanks for the Links ayjay. I printed the Bailey Guide and have watched the video. I wish I could she how she records her finding. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted November 2, 2014 Report Share Posted November 2, 2014 ^06 to ^04 is the common range for mid or high fire bisque these days. ^04 will burn more impurities out if your clay has a lot of them, and it's prone to pinholes, for porcelain you can go cooler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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