loveceramics85 Posted October 5, 2014 Report Share Posted October 5, 2014 Hi, i would like to know is it safe to use a soft metal, like metal shavings from keycutings on clay in the kiln and if so what do I need to do so it won't stick to the shelf and or what is a good matel i can use that will melt nicely over my work?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudslinger Ceramics Posted October 5, 2014 Report Share Posted October 5, 2014 Hi loveceramics85 What exactly are you trying to achieve? Melting the metal into the clay? on top as a 'skin'? With or without a glaze? What is your firing temperature? Will you be firing the metal during or after the firing has matured the clay itself? What metals were you thinking of? Copper will melt and turn black at 1093C, brass about the same but some metals like steel need to go higher and will burn through your clay, your shelves and the lining of the kiln itself! if you don't know what you're doing (Look online for metal melting points and volitility temperatures don't just 'go with it') I use metal shavings in the clay body itself also on and in glaze to melt and colour or fuse into it but..... don't know what you actually have in mind. Need more info before we can give an informed answer. Irene Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loveceramics85 Posted October 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2014 hi, i will be use a k5, iron stone and white sculpture clay, i want to make three heads bust using baby faces out of the three clays and the kind of look that i want is to use the metal filling on and around the eyes, i would like to put the metal on whliest the clay is wet. I do not want any glaze on the peice and all and i really do not want to take it pass 1200 and at the moment i can get my hand on metal shaving from what ever they make the key out of hope this is enough info, i guess really the best way is to test Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilly Posted October 5, 2014 Report Share Posted October 5, 2014 i guess really the best way is to test Test, test, test. But also protect your kiln shelves and anything else that is fired at the same time. Use cookies to protect the shelf, or bisque bowls. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Coyle Posted October 5, 2014 Report Share Posted October 5, 2014 If you are firing in oxidation the metal will turn to the oxide and you will NOT get any metal character at all. Bronze, brass,and copper and iron or steel will all give you a black deposit in the area where you put them. If you use a glaze, the copper bearing compounds will turn green and the iron bearing will turn dark brown. Reduction conditions, like raku will give ( maybe) a copper red blush but the iron will still be dark. If you really want a metal like look this will not work for you. You will need to use lusters, which are a whole different ball game. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Babs Posted October 5, 2014 Report Share Posted October 5, 2014 There are some glazes with very metallic finishes. Bronze ones come to mind, or an application of the copper manganese recipe whhich was posted recently. More easy to control , not as safe to handle prior to firing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted October 6, 2014 Report Share Posted October 6, 2014 If you want shiny metal, use a luster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted October 6, 2014 Report Share Posted October 6, 2014 is the sculpture you plan to be a scary halloween type thing? are you envisioning metal pins or nails sticking in the eyes of the dollfaces? if that is what you want, carpet tacks will work and stick into the clay even if you fire to cone 6. i had a friend who used to make things that way. if you expect the metals to melt together into a metallic covering, it won't work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hitchmss Posted October 7, 2014 Report Share Posted October 7, 2014 make pinch pots and test fire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MMB Posted October 12, 2014 Report Share Posted October 12, 2014 Yep! It was a thread I started lol. I was using key shavings in clear glaze. I got deep greens at ^06 where the shavings were densely populated. At ^6 I got white, light green, and a lot of blue variegation. I did a simple test at ^06 once and incorporated it in clay and slip but no melting action happened. I never did that test for ^6. J baymore and others noted that the key composition is not primarily copper, nickle, or steel but can actually have a high amount of lead. You can also get further evidence on that because there is a lot of warnings out there to not let you infants suck on you keys as toys. So really it depends on what you fire and make. If you never do functional ware then have it! The lead vapors "infect" you kiln and will hang around. So if you only have one kiln and do/plan to do functional ware for food uses then I would opt out of such an experiment. You might risk contaminating you kill with lead and then in turn your wares. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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