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Making underglazes from powders


LittleGreenPot

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Hello, I am new here and also just taken over a small pottery studio with limited experience. I have done pottery as a hobby and now in at the deep end, which is fun but also daunting and expensive! I have looked online for the best and cheapest way to make underglazes for kids to use on greenware for one-off groups. (also considering just keeping it un-glazed and send off bisqued to paint at home?!)

I made some stained glaze powder/ ball clay concoctions but were very weak in colour and too thick.  Can someone please advise on the  cheapest way to make underglazes? I have seen other potters have jars of it in kids classes in the past... Does mixing it with ball clay always dull down the colour and what ratio is best? Using just water is too runny. Advice greatly appreciated. Thanks

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"colour" tells me you might be in england or somewhere close to it.  here in the usa we are spoiled because there are so many varieties of underglaze made by various manufacturers.  i have seen several books published in england showing potters making colors with "pigments".  no translation so i do not know exactly what they are.    

if you can get a copy of  "the complete potter" by steve mattison, he has several helpful suggestions starting at page 176.

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Ball clay and stain sounds like a wash (with some frit) rather than an underglaze recipe. I'm not sure what you mean when you say "stained glaze powder"?  Underglazes can be used on greenware or bisque. Speedball ones seem to be the least expensive, don't know if they are an option where you live? Making your own underglazes takes a lot of stain, would have to price out to see if it works out any less expensive. Commercial ones I've used could all be watered down also.

I’ve used an underglaze recipe from Mason Stains, if you try it don’t leave out the VeegumT, even though it’s only a tiny amount it’s really necessary to keep the stains in suspension.

EPK Kaolin         10 parts

Feldspar (any)    25 parts

Silica                  25 parts

Stain.                40 parts

Mix well with water, add 1 part VeeGum T that has been FULLY broken down in water, screen through 100 or finer screen, bring to your painting consistency by addition of more water if needed. When using very strong stains such as cobalt blues or chrome greens you will need to reduce the amount of stain if the fired colour is too strong for your requirements. This can be used to decorate on clay or bisque. Dry fully before glazing.

Good luck with your new pottery studio!

@oldlady, we use "colour" in Canada too :)

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The commercial pottery painting places near me (Essex, England) use large jars of commercial underglaze.  I suspect that if you compare the cost of commercial vs home-made, and take all costs into account (materials and time to mix, test; mix, re-test) the commercial will turn out cheaper.

Good luck

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Thanks for the replies. I am in Dorset, UK. I used the ball clay to make the consistency better, but also looking for better ways to do this (just read :  https://ceramicartsnetwork.org/daily/ceramic-supplies/ceramic-glazes-and-underglazes/using-glaze-additives-to-make-average-glazes-great/)

Thanks Min for the recipe, how much underglaze would you think you would get with this and 100g of underglaze powder? x x x

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It sounds like all you need to use is an underglaze medium as you have underglaze powders not ceramic stains. The recipe I posted is for stains like these. Don't know where your powdered underglaze is from but from  Potterycrafts there is P4479 - Underglaze medium that they recommend for mixing with their underglaze powders. We don't have underglaze powders on this side of the pond so it was a bit confusing. 

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  • 1 month later...

Perhaps the reason ready made stuff is expensive is due to the testing over many years, and the experience of those who make it.  

You will end up spending more money in terms of time and waste, than biting the bullet and paying for the commercial stuff. Harsh, but true.  Unless you're in this for the long, (very long) haul and willing to spend the time and money to test, test, tes.

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why not go for coloured slips, if your clay is white just use that plus stain. Mix with water but when it's thickish use a defloc like sodium silicate, couple of drops. This will make it fluid without extra water.

use on moist leather hard work.

if clay is red o coloured buy a bag of porcelain.

And yes, ball clay, well ones I'm familiar with will dull the colour.

some stains are WYSIWYG and others are not.

 

I used to label jars thus.

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  • 4 months later...

I know I'm coming late to the party but .... I inherited a  bunch of Velvets and my studio folks got addicted to them - now finding that it takes  between $22- $46 dollars (for the reds, of course) for a pint .... but I imagine  using  Min's recipe, 40% Mason stain will add up pretty quickly, as well.

*sigh* .... the prices in this industry can be daunting at times.

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Speaking of Amaco Velvets, I noticed their "Bright Red" was literally the brightest most reliably intense medium red I've managed to find. I used up my small jar, and was going to replace it, but it was $15 or more than the same size Duncans (still pretty good, not the same though) and passed them up at my local store with some disappointment. Also they only had it in pints of course, whereas everything else was available in small sizes. I resent being gouged which also figured into my choices. I'd still like to use it for tiny dots and such, but forget anything else. 

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