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About Russ

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    Advanced Member

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  • Location
    Santa Fe, New Mexico
  • Interests
    Wood firing

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  1. Hey Patrick Ummmm my vote is NOT to just let it exhaust out the back. I'll revert back to the been there done that mantra.. mypotter friend (bless his heart) had the same wood roof joists as you do above his kiln. They were 3 or 4 feet above the arch of his kiln. They charred after just the first firing... and he had a brick / metal chimney. the charring was just from the radiated heat from the kiln! Just imagine if he let the exhaust straight out the back how fast the fire department would of joined the firing party. I used firebrick for about 6 feet then I switched to regular old red brick pavers till I was thru the roof then switched to a metal chimney. The pavers were seconds and we're quite cheep... .25 cents each as I remember. My metal chimney is actually hot water tanks welded together but as Mark said stainless steel would be by far preferable. Go to a scrap metal place and ask them to keep their eye out for one. Just my 2 cents.
  2. Your 16ga chimney will be extremely hot and will most likely fail after just a few firings.. . I'm speaking from experience on this one. Mine would start to glow at about cone 5 on. I had to extend a short brick chimney that transitioned to metal from a short 5ft to about 12ft. This got the metal above the kiln shed roof and out into the open air keeping it much cooler. You could touch the metal part with a stick before I raised it and the stick would instantly burst into flames. On a friend's kiln he had a short brick chimney then a light gauge metal extention. we were firing it and at about cone 8 it failed and actually collapsed down into the brick section. It partially blocked off the exit flue and severely choked the firing until it melted away enough and we were able to finish.
  3. Could it be a newer Arc fault type breaker (AFCI) thats causing the problem? Those things trip if you look at them wrong. With an old old motor with worn brushes arcing could be the problem?
  4. I figured out that slooooooow cooling of the glaze firing will virtually eliminate pinging. Being patient when it's down to 300f is rather hard but think about how much time and effort went into making an entire kiln load of wares and being so impatient that one is willing to take the chance of ruining all that hard work. If pinging is an issue perhaps allowing the kiln to cool to room temperature would be worth a try. I know that glaze to body fit is a whole other issue but I'm just saying it might be worth a try... That aside wouldn't it be fun to purposely "glue" a mass of rejects together in the kiln?
  5. Pings from "people" or cooling ceramics too fast "pings"?
  6. Right Rae but I doubt anything will be able to withstand the freeze thaw cycle. Winter can be pretty tough on ceramics left out in the weather.
  7. Just thinking outside the box... have you thought of firing them into a mass? I've had my share of kiln sculptures.. the latest one was a 12x24 shelf that broke during the firing. The mass since sitting on the corner of the wedging table. I plan on turning it upside down adding small led lights and making a chandelier.
  8. Hey Patrick since you have a beefy frame....... I have a double pivot castable door on my wood kiln. The second picture is what holds the weight of the door . It pivots on the left and under the center of the door. I made it this way so I could pull the 6 inch thick door straight out and then pivot to the side. It is made with the sides tapered so it swings into the kiln and is flush with the inside hotface. I cut strips of kaowool and use spray adhesive to hold the kaowool "seal" to the part of the door that goes in the kiln. this one is over 15 yrs old. the first one was a castable I made. It crumbled in 3 years.this one was cast with a Vesuvius brand castible.
  9. I have to agree with the others. The key won't last long. The kiln is not a static creature. When the kiln is fired it moves.. expands.. then contracts as it cools causing a noticeable amount of movement throughout the entire firing process. the key being relatively soft will inevitably crumble. This being said if it was made with a high alumina cement it would be less susceptible to these forces during firing. Just my 2 cents....
  10. Speed of drying doesn't matter as long as the clay dries EVENLY.
  11. OK my 2 cents. Thomas Stewart pro with the leg extensions. When you start making large pieces the extensions can be removed and with the large motor nothing will stop it. I actually looked at a new Brent 2 days ago and I could grab it and stop the wheel head! With the TS pro if you try that and can by some miracle succeed the earth will spin backwards. ..other things I noticed was the actual wheel head. First the TS head is removable making it by far easier to install bat pins and to clean. The wheel head is a SOLID 1/2 to5/8 inch thick whereas the Brent and most others are thin cast with gussets. just my 2 cents.
  12. Thank you Jennifer! how awesome are you?!!!
  13. Some Japanese fire their porcelain on a disk made of the same clay called a "hamma". It shrinks at the same rate as the piece relieving stress at the foot. For larger pieces this might be practical. Hamma' s are a one time one use throw away deal... but if you spend multiple hours on a piece I'd sure make one.
  14. Thank you Min! That's all it took... why wouldn't the default be "on" instead of having to try to figure all this out? Can I be in the secret society now that I know the secret handshake?
  15. How does one go about posting ones own "status update"? just can't figger that rascal out.. and to those who respond please type s l o w l y .
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