Renovating studio for my wife - Need help with Work Flow

[NotAPotter]

Hi - not sure if this is the right forum/sub-forum, but here we go...

I am looking to renovate my wife's pottery studio. Now the reason why I am reverting to a forum and not to her directly is because I am looking to make this a surprise for her. I know that she'll have personal preferences that only she'll be able to answer to, but I also know that I can do 75% of it if I get some feedback from some fellow potters. I also don't really have a timeline for this, but with a 4 mo old in the house now, let's just say things are slow moving, and I have some time. My goal is to introduce this to my wife before she gets back in the groove again. She hasn't done much since giving birth to our baby, but I know she is jones'n to get back into it.

I like to think I am familiar enough with some of the process flow she goes through when doing pottery. I am going to boil it down to this (please correct me if I am missing a crucial step that would have a substantial impact on workflow): Wedging -> Throwing -> Drying -> Trimming -> First firing (Bisque?) -> Glazing -> Final firing -> Storage. I mean, this is it in a nutshell right lol?

At 30,000ft, I find that shelf space, a sturdy table/bench, sink, kiln, and "glazing station" would be some of the things that would make her studio, well, a better studio. Fortunately she already has a kiln, and she has since used it.

The help I am looking for here is:

• What is the best way to utilize the space we have to provide all the accommodations?

I know there is only soo much we can do with a small space, but I am optimistic. I will share images of the current setup as soon as I snap some to show what we're working with.

• What are ideal materials for certain surfaces?

We had a large red oak cut down a few years ago, and I had all the lumber milled into boards. I have A LOT of material relatively speaking, so if I can leverage it to make workbenches, shelving, wedging table (my understanding is this has to be a robust and solid surface, yes or no?), then that'd be great. However, I do also understand that some planed and sanded red oak might not be ideal for working clay, so put me in my place.

Some images of the current space:

Our house:

Some shots of the garage from exterior:

A few interior renderings:

And a layout of the size:

And some of the milled red oak I wood (see what I did there?) like to use if possible:

Edited June 21 by NotAPotter
Re-hosted images

[NotAPotter]

Since this is a pottery forum, here is a picture of my "work mug" she made a while back.

 

Edited June 20 by NotAPotter
Changing image upload

[NotAPotter]

Sorry for the triple post, but I might add.... I am looking for any and all feedback. Anything that you've done for yourself in your workspace, or things that you've seen in other peoples studios would help as well.

I've seen something similar to bread racks in the local studio my wife used to go to. Has ample shelf space and can be rolled from one station to another when glazing or trimming, etc. Shelves can be moved on-the-fly too to accommodate different sizes of pots.

[Kelly in AK]

I’m a fan of having things on wheels. Shelves on wheels is ideal. On a board you can move five pots at once, on rolling shelves you can move 50. My wedging table (yes, has to be very heavy, very sturdy) is on heavy duty locking casters. I can move it ten inches or ten feet easy, but when the wheels are locked it doesn’t budge. Of course you need a smooth floor for that to work. 

An enclosed cupboard of some kind where drying can be regulated is wonderful. A damp closet. It saves time relative to covering things in plastic. That should be close to where the making happens. 

My wedging table is topped with Hardibacker board, 1/2.” Sturdy and easy to clean, it’s absorbent similar to plaster. The height of the table is important ergonomically. A wire attached to it is a must. A spot to store clay that’s near the wedging table is nice.

Anything that can be done to save steps, literal footsteps, is worth doing. 

[Min]

Stacking the boxes of clay close to where the  wedging table will be saves carrying the clay further than necessary. Then having the wheel close to the wedging table and shelving or a cart next it if possible.  Is there plumbing on the other side of one of the walls that you can tap into? Good lighting is something I'ld add to your list also.

Welcome to the forum and congrats on the little one.

[NotAPotter]

2 hours ago, Kelly in AK said:

An enclosed cupboard of some kind where drying can be regulated is wonderful. A damp closet. It saves time relative to covering things in plastic. That should be close to where the making happens.

Thanks for the feedback. That's exactly the type of thing I'm after.

When you say damp closet, can you give me an example? I would like to think it's something that has humidity control, but not sure if we're talking about aomething sinpler than that.

2 hours ago, Kelly in AK said:

My wedging table is topped with Hardibacker board, 1/2.” Sturdy and easy to clean, it’s absorbent similar to plaster. The height of the table is important ergonomically. A wire attached to it is a must. A spot to store clay that’s near the wedging table is nice.

Anything that can be done to save steps, literal footsteps, is worth doing. 

Are you talking about Hardie cement board? You say similar to plaster... Does the wedging work surface need to be porous/absorbent like that? What happens if it isn't?

I've definitely heard her talk about this a ways back. Right now the work surface she has is a plywood workbench, and I remember her saying something about how it wasn't good for wedging.

Edited June 21 by NotAPotter

[NotAPotter]

7 minutes ago, Min said:

Stacking the boxes of clay close to where the  wedging table will be saves carrying the clay further than necessary. Then having the wheel close to the wedging table and shelving or a cart next it if possible.  Is there plumbing on the other side of one of the walls that you can tap into? Good lighting is something I'ld add to your list also.

Welcome to the forum and congrats on the little one.

Good idea. I was actually thinking about getting her one of those hydraulic carts from harbor fright that would allow her to lift the clay up to the wedging surface. Would make it easy to unload from the trunk of her car, and then load it to her working surface.

The "recessed" space in the garage (adjacent to utility room) I have water lines running. I'll be able to tap into those to supply water to a sink. I don't intend on tapping into the drain in the house. I fear dealing with clogged drains down the road... even with the use of clay sink traps. That and I need to break into the concrete to tap into existing drains and I am really trying to avoid that. I need to think about it a little more, but I was thinking of making the traps/water reservoir mobile so they can be wheeled to the end of the garage and dumped outside or just have a hose handy to flush and drain it as needed (like a water heater).

And lighting is def on the list. I have quite a bit of LED strip lights to use so there'll be plenty of light to work with.

[oldlady]

you are doing a wonderful thing for your wife, she will love all of it.  since you know what kind of things she makes, get yourself a tiny pocket size tape measure and have it available all the time.   you never know when you will notice something that was never intended for pottery use and it is available free or used.   like the baker's rack in your photo.  you are setting of on a lifetime adventure, keep your eyes open and your imagination on alert for the unusual.  thrift stores have almost any tool you need in the kitchen section.

i use the baker's rack you show, it will hold a large number of things for me because i make very flat pieces.   others make mugs, vases etc. that are tall.  their racks might be the same overall size but only have six shelves.   you will not need to use the metal trays that hold food.   (more later.) use shelves of thick drywall, about 1/2 inch.   mine measure  17 1/2 by 26 inches and slide in from the smaller end.   the racks come in many different heights and they can support the shelves either way.   consistency is important because shelves can be moved from freshly made items to bisque or glazed racks depending on the layout.  sliding a shelf into a rack is so simple.   you do NOT need to tape the edges if you cut correctly.

buying the big items takes money and the way to save up for them means saving wherever you can.  buying from ceramic supply stores is necessary for specific items.   baker's racks do not need to be new.  maybe i paid as much as $50 for the first one, the rest were free.    i have about 5 of them, 4 use the same size shelves and can be used from the narrow end.   supermarkets replace their racks about every 7 years so look for some place that is about to remodel and suggest removing the old ones so they do not have to pay a disposal fee.

six feet long steel tables are from pizza kitchens, same remodel opportunity. 

*metal food trays might come with the rack but you do not need more than one or two.   if she uses hot wax it is much faster than painting wet wax with a brush and then waiting for it to dry.  a square electric frying pan or longer one fits on the metal tray and provides a way to carry it to a safe location when not in use.  the wax can be from half burned candles the thrift store is given but would not sell.  ask them to save them in a smallish box you give them with the promise that you will buy the full box for x$ if they will call you.

you are going to make lots of new friends at the thrift shops near you, broaden your horizons and have lots of fun, too.

 

Edited June 21 by oldlady
correct

[Kelly in AK]

@NotAPotter The damp closet is just a place that can stay humid, sealed off. No special equipment required. I use a plastic cupboard, but I did have to put a gasket on the door because there was a gap. I used a cast off wooden cupboard for years, when it finally rotted enough I switched to the plastic one. 

Yes, Hardie cement board is what I’m talking about. The 1/2” is smoother and doesn’t get saturated as fast as the 1/4.” The wedging surface should be absorbent so the clay doesn’t stick. Plaster is a traditional surface. Plywood gets saturated fast and gets sticky, and also eventually breaks down leaving splinters in the clay. Some people cover plywood with heavy duty canvas and that works, but it fills with clay and is a pain to clean.

[NotAPotter]

8 hours ago, oldlady said:

you are doing a wonderful thing for your wife, she will love all of it.  since you know what kind of things she makes, get yourself a tiny pocket size tape measure and have it available all the time.   you never know when you will notice something that was never intended for pottery use and it is available free or used.   like the baker's rack in your photo.  you are setting of on a lifetime adventure, keep your eyes open and your imagination on alert for the unusual.  thrift stores have almost any tool you need in the kitchen section.

i use the baker's rack you show, it will hold a large number of things for me because i make very flat pieces.   others make mugs, vases etc. that are tall.  their racks might be the same overall size but only have six shelves.   you will not need to use the metal trays that hold food.   (more later.) use shelves of thick drywall, about 1/2 inch.   mine measure  17 1/2 by 26 inches and slide in from the smaller end.   the racks come in many different heights and they can support the shelves either way.   consistency is important because shelves can be moved from freshly made items to bisque or glazed racks depending on the layout.  sliding a shelf into a rack is so simple.   you do NOT need to tape the edges if you cut correctly.

buying the big items takes money and the way to save up for them means saving wherever you can.  buying from ceramic supply stores is necessary for specific items.   baker's racks do not need to be new.  maybe i paid as much as $50 for the first one, the rest were free.    i have about 5 of them, 4 use the same size shelves and can be used from the narrow end.   supermarkets replace their racks about every 7 years so look for some place that is about to remodel and suggest removing the old ones so they do not have to pay a disposal fee.

six feet long steel tables are from pizza kitchens, same remodel opportunity. 

*metal food trays might come with the rack but you do not need more than one or two.   if she uses hot wax it is much faster than painting wet wax with a brush and then waiting for it to dry.  a square electric frying pan or longer one fits on the metal tray and provides a way to carry it to a safe location when not in use.  the wax can be from half burned candles the thrift store is given but would not sell.  ask them to save them in a smallish box you give them with the promise that you will buy the full box for x$ if they will call you.

you are going to make lots of new friends at the thrift shops near you, broaden your horizons and have lots of fun, too.

 

Good to know on the thrift store ordeal. I already came across a bread rack for $50 locally, I think I'll give them a ring and pick it up.

3 hours ago, Kelly in AK said:

@NotAPotter The damp closet is just a place that can stay humid, sealed off. No special equipment required. I use a plastic cupboard, but I did have to put a gasket on the door because there was a gap. I used a cast off wooden cupboard for years, when it finally rotted enough I switched to the plastic one. 

Yes, Hardie cement board is what I’m talking about. The 1/2” is smoother and doesn’t get saturated as fast as the 1/4.” The wedging surface should be absorbent so the clay doesn’t stick. Plaster is a traditional surface. Plywood gets saturated fast and gets sticky, and also eventually breaks down leaving splinters in the clay. Some people cover plywood with heavy duty canvas and that works, but it fills with clay and is a pain to clean.

I'll have to keep an eye out for a cupboard. I think she'd like that. She definitely wrap everything in plastic bag right now. I'm sure she'd like to do away with that.

[Callie Beller Diesel]

16 hours ago, NotAPotter said:

one of those hydraulic carts from harbor fright

Depending on the amount of pottery your wife makes, especially with a newborn, you might want to hold off on anything you might not use in another area of your life. If you get all the fun equipment right off, or buy everything brand new, it can be a big expense that can take a while to recoup. 

This cart itself may be a good investment, as post partum bodies can be very prone to joint injury for up to a year after birth, and longer if she’s nursing. But as far as things like studio shelving/furniture goes, see what you can diy on a budget. 

I think any kind of damp closet will be a huge help to her. Small children are very time consuming, and being able to slow drying was key when my kids were still tiny. 

The last big thing I’d recommend is to make a point of giving her guilt free time in that studio. Make sure that all the household stuff is taken care of and that she’s not worried about what she’s coming back to after her clay sessions. The best thing my husband ever did for me was to hand me a set of noise dampening headphones, push me towards our basement, and say “don’t come back for at least an hour. There will be dinner waiting for you.”

[Hulk]

Nice work mug!

My Studio is one bay in a three bay garage.

Heating/cooling - an issue, at all?
If so, a mini-split may serve, which would very likely require addition of an electrical circuit.
While at it, place receptacles where they may be needed, at appropriate heights.
Comfortable temps really help.

Lighting has been mentioned.
The light from that one window - and the light from the windows in the garage door - is precious! ...and may influence the layout planning.

Work surface heights, that's an individual preference; it's important.

Air movement and dust control
Having some movement - doesn't take much - helps wares dry.
On the other hand, moving air can disturb/distribute dust.
Where floor and work surfaces are easy to keep clean, there's less dust.

Where's the kiln go?
How 'bout a door out the back to an enclosed patio (enclosed, but with provision to open up for max ventilation when the kiln is running)?
I liked having the kiln in the Studio for loading and unloading, not so much for how much room it took and having to manage the heat and fumes. Space. Heat. Fumes.

Is there water just outside the rollup door and/or the person door?
That would serve, however, a plumbed sink might be nice; the drain could/should go outside, or through a "French drain" or a clay trap...

Surround sound.

Great chairs that suit the workstation and the worker(s).

I'd think about getting a start on't, but not to lock in the layout, design decisions, workflow, colors, finishes, heights, which station gets which view, and, heh, everything.

[Denice]

I have been using a plastic utility room cabinet for 15 years,  it has adjustable shelves and some vents.  They were so cheap I bought two just in case I needed a extra,  I picked up wire racks at thrift stores and garage sales you don't want the clay sitting directly against the plastic. wood would also work.  I have had several 5 gal bucket systems,  in a garage I would mount the sink high enough that you put your bucket directly over it and the tail piece drops about half way in the bucket.   You can put a hose connector on the bucket with pipe glue just like any PVC pipe. It should be about 4 inches from the top edge.   I keep a plastic pan in my sink to wash my hand in and other items.  When the clay has settled I dump the clear water in the drain and scrape the clay into the trash.  Use a shallow sink and keep your tail piece hand tight no glue,  some day you will have clean out the bucket.   You could run the garden hose under the garage door or drill a hole in the side of your house and have a PVC drain.  I just worked out of a bucket of water for years but it sure was nice to get warm water to throw with.   Denice