Amelia Posted February 18, 2021 Report Share Posted February 18, 2021 I just opened up my 04 bisque load to find that the cone packs I put in barely moved at all and didn’t change color! I haven’t had this happen before. The pots look good (same color and “ping” like they usually do after the bisque), it took 14 hours (on slow and with a little preheat), and the review says it reached 1941 F. I’m a little nervous to do a glaze firing if something is up. My elements are on their way out- but definitely still have life in them. It’s a skutt 1227 for reference. Curious if anyone has seen this or has any thoughts. Thanks! (not sure why this photo uploaded sideways...sorry!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted February 18, 2021 Report Share Posted February 18, 2021 If your kiln has a controller its not lettingb the kiln get hot enough -cones never lie Bique temps can be a large range and still seem and are fine. The cones (unless they have gotten wet) look pretty strait up and (at least one is 04 -middle i assume) not any got hot enough to bend. Your glaze will also not be right I would assume as well until you figure out whats going On. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amelia Posted February 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2021 @Mark C. Thanks for the reminder on the bisque firing temp range! That totally makes sense. I’m assuming my elements are in need of a change and I just waited a little too long. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amelia Posted February 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2021 Just got off the phone with a skutt tech and he is thinking it is the thermocouple. I ruled that out because I always heard kilns will overfire if it is a thermocouple issue- but I guess he sees the opposite with people doing cone 6 firings (if I heard him correctly). Definitely need to repair the elements soon (ordering them now), but I can probably get a few more firings beforehand if I just switch the thermocouple out. Figured I’d give an update in case anyone else runs into this in the future! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted February 19, 2021 Report Share Posted February 19, 2021 29 minutes ago, Amelia said: Just got off the phone with a skutt tech and he is thinking it is the thermocouple. I ruled that out because I always heard kilns will overfire if it is a thermocouple issue- I would certainly check the thermocouple but thermocouple excess drift before failure is GENERALLY less likely to be an issue than worn elements. I would definitely change the thermocouple as suggested, make sure everything is connected and tight but also read the resistance of the elements and see if they have increased in value from new by 10% or more. If so, then they really should be replaced as well before risking a glaze firing on it, In my experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted February 19, 2021 Report Share Posted February 19, 2021 Oh so true If so, then they really should be replaced as well before risking a glaze firing on it, In my experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amelia Posted February 19, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2021 Thanks @Bill Kielb! Very good call. Most multimeters work on kilns right? i.e. I can just pick one up at the hardware store? I’m going to pick up my new elements Monday and honestly think I’ll just switch them all out while I’m in “kiln-repair mode”. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted February 19, 2021 Report Share Posted February 19, 2021 1 hour ago, Amelia said: Thanks @Bill Kielb! Very good call. Most multimeters work on kilns right? i.e. I can just pick one up at the hardware store? I’m going to pick up my new elements Monday and honestly think I’ll just switch them all out while I’m in “kiln-repair mode”. Yes any reasonably priced meter $20.00 ish should be fine as long as it’s digital. Reading small values on an analog meter is often difficult. Your elements are going to be approximately in a rangę of say 5 and 30 ohms depending on their interconnection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amelia Posted February 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2021 Thanks @Bill Kielb!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rox54 Posted February 21, 2021 Report Share Posted February 21, 2021 I'd like to jump into this thread to ask a question on elements. One person suggested holding my cone 6 firings for 10 minutes to even the glazes but another said that a 10 minute hold at high temp is really hard on elements. In my research, I found that a hold really just raises heatwork. I would appreciate your thoughts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted February 21, 2021 Report Share Posted February 21, 2021 34 minutes ago, rox54 said: I'd like to jump into this thread to ask a question on elements. One person suggested holding my cone 6 firings for 10 minutes to even the glazes but another said that a 10 minute hold at high temp is really hard on elements. In my research, I found that a hold really just raises heatwork. I would appreciate your thoughts. My thought, holds at the top simply produce more heatwork. So the argument has been the heat does not get to the center but that would simply mean with a hold the outside of your pots begin to get too much heatwork. Cone five with a fifteen minute hold usually bends cone 6. What’s the diff? To me to heat evenly fire at a reasonable rate especially in the last 200-250f degrees. If you follow the Orton chart or the built in cone fire programs in most controllers then 108 degrees per hour in the last segment bends a cone pretty much spot on temp anywhere in the kiln unless the kiln has balancing issues. Cones are made of glaze btw. The slower the rate, the more evenly everything heats. Go fast in the last 200-250 degrees and your results are less predictable. Holds at top temp definitely add more wear to the elements. Sort of like firing to cone 6-1/2 or 7 in my experience. like all things clay though ....... different things seem to work for different folks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hulk Posted February 21, 2021 Report Share Posted February 21, 2021 Hi Rox, My guess on the elements, ten minutes is just a bit more time, which all adds up, however, getting the results you wish likely trumps a few more firings before replacing elements. I'm curious to see what others have to say on adding ten minutes at peak. As for your firing schedule, trials tell the tale has been my experience. Reliably repeating what's working, aah, that's the catch - takes careful attention, detailed notes, pyrometer, witness cones (a controller should help - looking to upgrade, someday). fwiw, I've moved down to cone five and added a full hour hold after -100F controlled drop from peak. What would/might help your results, depends. See Tony Hansen's article on drop and soak. Drop-and-Soak Firing (digitalfire.com) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted February 21, 2021 Report Share Posted February 21, 2021 Adding a 10 minute hold at peak temperature is going to have a negligible difference in the grand scheme of things insofar as element and relay life. If your glazes look better, (reduced pinholes or blisters) then it's worth it. If the cones or glazes are overfired looking then just drop the top temperature down a few degrees. If your glazes are okay without the hold then why change anything? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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