Options for Dark Clay

[Hanhan161]

I am making some drinking mugs for a Renaissance Faire. I am using Kentucky Mudworks Brown Bear clay body, one I have just started using recently (I LOVE the beautiful chocolate brown color after firing). I threw the mugs and then attached a shield-shaped slab piece on the front, and am etching out the name of our Ren Fest on the front. I love the idea of leaving the shield unglazed and just glazing the rest of the mug around it, but I'm afraid the etched out words/image will not be very legible since the clay is so dark. I tried to find pictures of similar things on the internet and couldn't find it. Any ideas on whether it will be legible or I should try underglaze on the letters? (and which colors underglaze would work?) Or other options altogether. They are all already thrown, so slip is not an option at this point.

[Callie Beller Diesel]

Hi and welcome!

Some of your legibility will  come from the size of the font you’re using. Make sure that the letters are still clear after the clay is done shrinking. Many people rub some kind of stain, or use a wash to highlight stamped lettering. Black mason stain, or some kind of oxide wash will do. Use what you have to hand. 
 

[Roberta12]

1 hour ago, Hanhan161 said:

I am making some drinking mugs for a Renaissance Faire. I am using Kentucky Mudworks Brown Bear clay body, one I have just started using recently (I LOVE the beautiful chocolate brown color after firing). I threw the mugs and then attached a shield-shaped slab piece on the front, and am etching out the name of our Ren Fest on the front. I love the idea of leaving the shield unglazed and just glazing the rest of the mug around it, but I'm afraid the etched out words/image will not be very legible since the clay is so dark. I tried to find pictures of similar things on the internet and couldn't find it. Any ideas on whether it will be legible or I should try underglaze on the letters? (and which colors underglaze would work?) Or other options altogether. They are all already thrown, so slip is not an option at this point.

I will send you some pics tomorrow.  I just locked the kiln shed for the night.  But I have some things in there that are close to what you are describing.  

Roberta

[liambesaw]

You could always glaze the entire thing and then scrape the glaze off of the shield with a metal rib, leaving glaze in the recesses of the lettering.

[Sorcery]

This is Standard's Version, with Dick Blick Bright White, and Duncan Neon Red and Neon Yellow underglazes. 

The light is making the white look whiter than it is, but the contrast is good. The brownish white real renny.

 

Sorce

[Roberta12]

@Hanhan161This is a Laguna clay body, RSMC cone 6.  I chose to not put underglaze, glaze, or wash in the logo just to see how the logo looked "naked".  The owner was very pleased with it.  But I have used a brown patina wash that fires black, in the past.  Hope this helps.

 

Roberta

[Hulk]

I'm filling chatter marks, incising, etc. with underglaze (and glaze as well), wiping clean the surface with a sponge, then allowing the piece to dry before the next step, as a highlight, and also to cover the mark, as glaze may appear to have covered a chatter mark, but pull away to leave a pit in firing.

When filling, try dipping your brush in water, then pick up a bit of underglaze (or glaze*) - the water will help mitigate the material immediately grabbing onto the clay, and also help to fill the marks, the material following the water. Judicious use of water conserves material and effort. Turn your sponge after each wipe, and rinse it often.

This covered bowl has blue (Lakeside clear blue) and green (Bill Van Gilder rutile green) in the chatter marks. Typically, I'm not seeing any staining of the surrounding clay, not even on white clays - just wipe it away! Err, where the surface is smooth/ribbed.