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Help with glaze


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Did you use gerstley borate?  The recipe has no clay, so the surface won't be durable or adhere well.  If you use gerstley borate it could help gel the glaze a bit. Otherwise try adding 2% bentonite.  It's not a great recipe "in the bucket" as they say.

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1 minute ago, WarEagle2334 said:

I did use Gerstley Borate for Gillespie Borate. 

Not a great recipe for applicators. 1.39 seems typical for dipping but might have to increase water if it’s still too thick. How long was your dip? We have a three second dip rule but it varies considerable from potter to potter. As Liam mentioned, this recipe will be tough to use as normally we like to see 10% clay to help keep everything suspended in the bucket else it’s constant stirring. The Custer substitution seems nice in the picture. As far as bentonite, it calls for 1 percent already so moving to 2 is likely ok but probably will not keep this as suspended as clay would.

its flux ratio is in a durable range(That’s good) , it’s boron is .22 (a bit high).  0.15 usually gets a cone six melt but then again it has a 12:1 Si:al so it should fire matte or be tough to melt.

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Alumina is low for a durable glaze for functional pots. If the glaze is for non functional pots you could add some CMC gum, made up as a liquid, for part of the mixing water. CMC would help with both the binding of the raw glaze to the pot and the durability of the raw glaze coat. Problem with doing this is the gum will slow down the rate the glaze dries at so can lead to unwanted drips and sheeting of the glaze when pots are dipped. 

There was a thread a few days ago about a lithium turquoise and @Dick White supplied an alternate recipe here. It has epk in it so that would help with the binding issue. Alumina and silica are at much better levels and the other fluxes are in line with the Glazy recipe you linked.

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I'd look for a better glaze. That color is not rare, and I'm betting it wouldn't take much hunting to find one that is very similar and doesn't have the problems this one does. As Bill said, look for glazes that have 10% or more clay (usually EPK or ball clay) in them. IMO it's not worth the hassle to deal with a glaze like this, especially if you plan to use it a lot.

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10 hours ago, Bill Kielb said:

Not a great recipe for applicators. 1.39 seems typical for dipping but might have to increase water if it’s still too thick. How long was your dip? We have a three second dip rule but it varies considerable from potter to potter. As Liam mentioned, this recipe will be tough to use as normally we like to see 10% clay to help keep everything suspended in the bucket else it’s constant stirring. The Custer substitution seems nice in the picture. As far as bentonite, it calls for 1 percent already so moving to 2 is likely ok but probably will not keep this as suspended as clay would.

its flux ratio is in a durable range(That’s good) , it’s boron is .22 (a bit high).  0.15 usually gets a cone six melt but then again it has a 12:1 Si:al so it should fire matte or be tough to melt.

It did it at almost any second dip. 1-3 seconds coated it pretty thick. 
 

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9 hours ago, Min said:

Alumina is low for a durable glaze for functional pots. If the glaze is for non functional pots you could add some CMC gum, made up as a liquid, for part of the mixing water. CMC would help with both the binding of the raw glaze to the pot and the durability of the raw glaze coat. Problem with doing this is the gum will slow down the rate the glaze dries at so can lead to unwanted drips and sheeting of the glaze when pots are dipped. 

There was a thread a few days ago about a lithium turquoise and @Dick White supplied an alternate recipe here. It has epk in it so that would help with the binding issue. Alumina and silica are at much better levels and the other fluxes are in line with the Glazy recipe you linked.

Thanks so much. You always have some great advice/direction. 
 

this would be on functional pottery? What makes it not good for that?

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10 hours ago, WarEagle2334 said:

Firing to cone 6

 

But what is your bisque fired to...or are you raw glazing?

Just that a low bisqued pot wil absorb a lot of water and so a lot of glaze material onto pot surface making for thick application of glaze even though  seems SG ok....

 

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Go to cone 04...or use more water in the glaze bucket. Wipe your pots with damp sponge pre glazing.

Test a few small tiles with more water in glaze bucket..take a known amount i cups and add  known amounts of water snd look at prefired surface may give you an indicator

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