Kiln and salty ocean air. How to minimize corrosion.

[Vidya]

I got such good responses from the CAC (ceramic arts community) that I thought I would pose another question and possible solution for those dealing with rust and corrosion specifically from salty, ocean air.  Being by the ocean is beautiful but it is true that pretty much everything metal rusts and is subject to corrosion.   I am hoping not to have to abandon my dream of having my own kiln (and instead continue to let the community kiln owner deal with ongoing salt air challenges and added maintenance costs. )  But part of the reason I want my own kiln is because the community kiln has been giving wildly different results and has been over firing. 

I have been reading the forums and see that a rule of thumb is for a kiln firing to cone 6 in "normal" conditions gets about 100 firings before the elements need replacing. 

Now I am figuring that a kiln operating 100 meters from the ocean would not fare so well.

It is my practice to cover electronics, to use absorbent materials like silica packs and kitty litter to deal with excess moisture in the air and this helps a lot. Recently I discovered that floor paste wax can do wonders to protect metal surfaces and retard the rusting process. Obviously this is not viable on most components of the kiln, but whatever suggestions any of you have for prolonging the useful life of my-hope-to-be-kiln are most welcome. 

 

[JohnnyK]

I would think that the outside of the kiln might get hot enough to melt the wax coating... a thought might be to use High Temperature paint like what is used on automotive engines and exhaust systems. You won't have a broad color palate, but you might be able to find a chrome or aluminum color to paint the exterior metal parts of the kiln. These paints are usually good to 1K degrees, so should work just fine on the kiln...take a look here for something that might work for you:  https://www.vhtpaint.com/high-heat;jsessionid=018BAC68B19BDD5E109523D2AD023D20

[Hulk]

Corrosive gasses produced whilst firing - both bisque and glaze firing - can be strong, hence venting them away can be important, which would be almost non-factor if you're setting the kiln up outdoors. That said, setting up your kiln indoors (or in a dedicated - and well ventilated - shed) where it can be kept dry should make a big difference in terms of exposure to salt air. Plan for good ventilation though!

[Mark C.]

Just put the kiln in well ventilated - shed outside forget the wax-most kilns are stainless steel jacketed which is great for outside. The electronics  is what needs to be kept salt free-Maybe wrap that part in plastic when not in use.

When constructing shed think about prevailing salt air breeze and put opening away from that direction.

[Vidya]

Thanks Mark, Hulk and Johnny.  Will do.

[Mark C.]

What country are you located?

[Vidya]

Brazil

[Bill Kielb]

9 hours ago, Vidya said:

Brazil

As all have said good ventilation!

As far as the circuit board it should be already conformally coated where necessary to minimize corrosion. For other connections to the board one could use oxide inhibitor to the push on connections and get some additional protection. Burndy makes a version called penetrox that is effective when using aluminum wire. It can be used on a mix of metals and inhibits corrosion so periodic application likely  would extend the life of all these connections. There are other marine coatings for terminals that are salt resistant or inhibit corrosion in rough environments. Ax-7 C exceeds mil spec but is expensive I believe.

Encapsulation of the circuit board Is not practical as some components need cooling. Heat is just as bad for electronic components. Heat sinks conformally coated will often cause the device to overheat and fail. So ventilation and maybe select  use of oxide inhibitor likely extend the service life a whole bunch.

[Vidya]

Thanks Bill for the additional suggestion of an oxide inhibitor.  I will check youtube and the net to see how to apply.