JamesP Posted January 6, 2017 Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 Good day, I create ceramic pipes and have been having issues with the bowls / bottoms of the pipes encountering runny glaze. I fire mostly cone7to10 in my natural gas kiln and my problem has occurred most when I dip glaze for 3 seconds. I have spray glazed with greater success but it is cold outside where I spray and I want to stay warm inside. I do production so time is important which means brush glazing takes to long and should be out of the question. So do you have any tips on how to prevent my glazes from running and ruining my pipes? Less dip time? Deal with the cold? Face the long time of brushing? Or maybe dip the top half of the pipe and then the bottom half for 1second and brush the glaze in the bowl? To better understand the question and see my work you can visit ceramicsmokeware . com. Know that your time and replies are much appreciated. Thanks, James P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted January 6, 2017 Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 Most traditional ceramic pipes I have seen are unglazed. Maybe you could wax the bowl and not glaze it. Otherwise use lighter application /less glaze around the bowl and carburetor to avoid clogging. Try a glaze with higher viscosity -less tendency to run. It will require testing. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted January 6, 2017 Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 Not to keen on the ceramic pipe dope wholesale thing. I have to hand it to you being Utah based. I did not think of state state as progressive in this way. Seems like whatever it takes to spay as that works is what you need to do. Just get a small indoor spray booth going? not sure what this would not be easy as they are easy to make and you can even buy them ready made.-they collect the overspray as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted January 6, 2017 Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 Cone 7 to 10 is a big range. Most glazes will have issues across that broad a temperature range. Cone 10 glazes will be undefired at 7, and cone 7 glazes will be overfired at cone 10. If you're mixing your own glazes, increase the clay content to stiffen up the glaze. If you're using commercial glazes you just need to fire lower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesP Posted January 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 Cone 7 to 10 is a big range. Most glazes will have issues across that broad a temperature range. Cone 10 glazes will be undefired at 7, and cone 7 glazes will be overfired at cone 10. If you're mixing your own glazes, increase the clay content to stiffen up the glaze. If you're using commercial glazes you just need to fire lower. My glazes are rated for cone6 to 10 and my kiln fires uneven. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesP Posted January 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 Not to keen on the ceramic pipe dope wholesale thing. I have to hand it to you being Utah based. I did not think of state state as progressive in this way. Seems like whatever it takes to spay as that works is what you need to do. Just get a small indoor spray booth going? not sure what this would not be easy as they are easy to make and you can even buy them ready made.-they collect the overspray as well. Well a spray booth would be to small so I think that is not an option Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesP Posted January 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 Most traditional ceramic pipes I have seen are unglazed. Maybe you could wax the bowl and not glaze it. Otherwise use lighter application /less glaze around the bowl and carburetor to avoid clogging. Try a glaze with higher viscosity -less tendency to run. It will require testing. Marcia The glaze still runs with wax plus waxing 100's of pipes is not what I want to do. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted January 6, 2017 Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 How about spraying the bowls with another stiffer less runny glaze and the rest of the pipe with the other glaze? They make spray booths all sizes -I have seen one 8 feet wide?To small huh You are not liking our suggestions-lay off the product a few days and try a few of these ideas-I think testing is whats needed with a clear head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesP Posted January 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 How about spraying the bowls with another stiffer less runny glaze and the rest of the pipe with the other glaze? They make spray booths all sizes -I have seen one 8 feet wide?To small huh You are not liking our suggestions-lay off the product a few days and try a few of these ideas-I think testing is whats needed with a clear head. Sorry I didn't mean to come off seeming like that, but I have to spray outside because I have no space for a booth of the larger sizes inside. I do know that I need to apply a lighter layer of glaze so I am on that same understanding. But as far as production goes I don't know how to lay off, thats why I was hoping to post and hear something I didn't think of that sounds flawless. If you know what I mean. So if nothing else thank you for giving me your input and helping out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted January 6, 2017 Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 The only thing to keep glazes from running is less thickness-spraying is one easy way-thinning glaze is another-dipping less time is a another different glaze -or alter yours to stiffen it as Neil says add clay to glaze-my guess is yo are using pre maid glazes less firing temp Not sure about flawless its ceramics and it will bite you sooner or later-nature of the beast Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JBaymore Posted January 6, 2017 Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 Change the viscosity/specific gravity of the glaze batch to give you a thinner coating per unit of time dunked. Or.... bisque higher to make the bisque less absorbent so that it deposits glaze layer more slowly. Or.... both. THEN...... work on your application timing. And know that the thicker area of the pipe will absorb more of a glaze layer in the same "dip time" than the thinner stem part. Just how it is. So dip the stem end into the batch first.... and then lower the bowl end into the batch. So that the bowl is in the glaze batch the shortest time period (and hence thinnest deposition of glaze. best, ..................john Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesP Posted January 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 The only thing to keep glazes from running is less thickness-spraying is one easy way-thinning glaze is another-dipping less time is a another different glaze -or alter yours to stiffen it as Neil says add clay to glaze-my guess is yo are using pre maid glazes less firing temp Not sure about flawless its ceramics and it will bite you sooner or later-nature of the beast Well thank you I know I will use one of these to solve my issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesP Posted January 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 Change the viscosity/specific gravity of the glaze batch to give you a thinner coating per unit of time dunked. Or.... bisque higher to make the bisque less absorbent so that it deposits glaze layer more slowly. Or.... both. THEN...... work on your application timing. And know that the thicker area of the pipe will absorb more of a glaze layer in the same "dip time" than the thinner stem part. Just how it is. So dip the stem end into the batch first.... and then lower the bowl end into the batch. So that the bowl is in the glaze batch the shortest time period (and hence thinnest deposition of glaze. best, ..................john I don't know why I didn't think about higher bisq firing. That is a good idea and with the viscosity I think I will add a bit more water to those runny glazes. I suppose I will try some different dipping techniques as well. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcia Selsor Posted January 6, 2017 Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 Most traditional ceramic pipes I have seen are unglazed. Maybe you could wax the bowl and not glaze it. Otherwise use lighter application /less glaze around the bowl and carburetor to avoid clogging. Try a glaze with higher viscosity -less tendency to run. It will require testing. Marcia The glaze still runs with wax plus waxing 100's of pipes is not what I want to do. Thanks As I said before and John and Mark agreed, use a glaze that won't run so much. John's suggestion of a higher bisque is also good. Why are your glazes running so much? Too much glaze? Over firing? You need to resolve that. Marcia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lena Arice Lucas Posted January 6, 2017 Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 Hi James, Try dipping the pipes quickly in water prior to dipping (or you could spray/mist/spritz with water). That will decrease absorption and thus reduce glaze thickness. Experiment with amount of time you dip into the water (or spray), and thus how wet the piece becomes, and the amount of time between water dipping and glazing, since the thickness of both the bisque and the glaze will effect glaze absorbtion thickness. (Spraying water on vs dipping in water may keep moisture more consistant.) Depending on the thickness consistancy of the piece, you may opt to only wet the thicker (if there are any) parts, or wet thicker part more thoroughly to assure more consistant wetting. Experiment with how long you dip/spray. You could try simply, more quickly, dip "in and out," forgetting "how many seconds" for now... Also after dipping/spraying, have a dry towel ready to quickly dry off any areas that are wetter so glaze absorbtion will be more equal. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted January 6, 2017 Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 Your glazes are going to be stiffer at cone 6, runnier at cone 10. If I were you I would just fire at cone 6. You'll save a lot of fuel and your glazes won't be so runny. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted January 6, 2017 Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 I think wetting the bisque ware with a spray bottle would be a fast quick fix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Bridge Pottery Posted January 6, 2017 Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 Are you firing them on stilts? Is the glaze running all the way down them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magnolia Mud Research Posted January 6, 2017 Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 A summary of answers to your specific question and a couple of my additions: 1. A thicker applied glaze layer will run more than a thinner applied glaze layer. You already know that. 2. A thin coat of glaze does not run. You already know that. 3. Dipping the pipe in water before dipping or bisque firing to a higher temperature will making dipping pickup result in a thinner applied glaze. That has already been suggested. 4. Changing the orientation of the pipe when dipping will change the end that has the thicker layer of glaze. That has already been suggested. 5. Shaking vigorously or slinging sharply after dipping the pipe into the glaze will also remove glaze from the pipe. My suggestion. 6. A quick dip of freshly glaze ware into a bucket of water will rinse some of the glaze off the ware. Requires finesse in dipping. Works for me most of the time, but sometimes it removes all the glaze. A maybe suggestion. 7. Combinations of these are also possible. LT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesP Posted January 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 Most traditional ceramic pipes I have seen are unglazed. Maybe you could wax the bowl and not glaze it. Otherwise use lighter application /less glaze around the bowl and carburetor to avoid clogging. Try a glaze with higher viscosity -less tendency to run. It will require testing. Marcia The glaze still runs with wax plus waxing 100's of pipes is not what I want to do. Thanks As I said before and John and Mark agreed, use a glaze that won't run so much. John's suggestion of a higher bisque is also good. Why are your glazes running so much? Too much glaze? Over firing? You need to resolve that. Marcia Yes it is to much glaze and not over firing. But I will try these tips from everyone and get it right. Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesP Posted January 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 Are you firing them on stilts? Is the glaze running all the way down them? Only on the glazes that love to run, which I will not be using them to dip anymore. Simple mistake Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesP Posted January 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 I think wetting the bisque ware with a spray bottle would be a fast quick fix Your right I used to rinse them and that was a bit extreme so I stopped. But I think that would do well. So next time I will just try my 04 bisq and spray them down. Very helpful, cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesP Posted January 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 Your glazes are going to be stiffer at cone 6, runnier at cone 10. If I were you I would just fire at cone 6. You'll save a lot of fuel and your glazes won't be so runny. Well the bottom of my kiln is cone 5 and the top is cone 10. So i raise the shelves 4.5 inches off the bottom and place my first shelf where it fires cone 6. Lets just say that is how I use my kiln because I am unsure of how I can even the firing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesP Posted January 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 Hi James, Try dipping the pipes quickly in water prior to dipping (or you could spray/mist/spritz with water). That will decrease absorption and thus reduce glaze thickness. Experiment with amount of time you dip into the water (or spray), and thus how wet the piece becomes, and the amount of time between water dipping and glazing, since the thickness of both the bisque and the glaze will effect glaze absorbtion thickness. (Spraying water on vs dipping in water may keep moisture more consistant.) Depending on the thickness consistancy of the piece, you may opt to only wet the thicker (if there are any) parts, or wet thicker part more thoroughly to assure more consistant wetting. Experiment with how long you dip/spray. You could try simply, more quickly, dip "in and out," forgetting "how many seconds" for now... Also after dipping/spraying, have a dry towel ready to quickly dry off any areas that are wetter so glaze absorbtion will be more equal. Good luck. Your right I used to rinse them and that was a bit extreme so I stopped. But I think that would do well. So next time I will just try my 04 bisq and spray them down. I will also try to not count how many seconds so I can just focus on the thickness, thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesP Posted January 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2017 A summary of answers to your specific question and a couple of my additions: 1. A thicker applied glaze layer will run more than a thinner applied glaze layer. You already know that. 2. A thin coat of glaze does not run. You already know that. 3. Dipping the pipe in water before dipping or bisque firing to a higher temperature will making dipping pickup result in a thinner applied glaze. That has already been suggested. 4. Changing the orientation of the pipe when dipping will change the end that has the thicker layer of glaze. That has already been suggested. 5. Shaking vigorously or slinging sharply after dipping the pipe into the glaze will also remove glaze from the pipe. My suggestion. 6. A quick dip of freshly glaze ware into a bucket of water will rinse some of the glaze off the ware. Requires finesse in dipping. Works for me most of the time, but sometimes it removes all the glaze. A maybe suggestion. 7. Combinations of these are also possible. LT I do shake the pipes but it dries so quickly. So I am going to spray them down well enough to where they do not dry as quickly and try dipping them differently. Your advice is much appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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