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  1. Hi, I am new to ceramic glazing. Are there any methods that can duplicate fire-based glazing on ceramics? I work at home, so i do not have access to kiln. I have read there are oven-based glazes and non-fire based glaze. How effective are they in terms of the glaze (will it be similar to fire glazed plate)? Thank You.
  2. Hi there, Like many artists, I am currently transitioning from making pottery in a community studio to working at home which is a big adjustment with an even bigger learning curve! I'll be setting up my very first kiln in the coming weeks and now need to figure out (for the first time) what the best commercial glazes out there are for the clay I'm using. For now I am using Standard #112 clay, and I will also eventually be working with their #551 Porcelain (both cone 6). I will be firing in a Skutt Km818 electric kiln. I have two big questions. First, does anyone have any tips
  3. I’m on a really long and frustrating journey trying to find a glaze/clay match to avoid crazing. But why, time and time again, on YouTube and Instagram am I finding potters with high follower numbers and ‘JUST SOLD OUT ETSY RESTOCK’ posts who are advertising pots, which have clearly got crazing issues?? Is there a ‘generally accepted’ level of crazing one should expect? Is it ‘normal’ to hear your pottery ping when getting it out of the kiln then later pouring hot liquid in? I’ve been driving myself nuts, but it appears to not be as serious as I initially thought... am I wa
  4. Hi all. Am having trouble with pinholes. I am using some commercial glazes and one glaze I mixed up from a recipe I found online. I clean my pieces very well before I glaze. I allow to dry before glazing, and leave them covered until glazing. I believe maybe it could be my one glaze recipe, or perhaps it could be the firing. I rent a space and the owner does the firings. He will not let anyone else fire and he blames all defects on you or your pots. Any help is so much appreciated. I am attaching a photo of a bad example of a glaze with a pinhole I got this firing.
  5. I have been wandering from years ,talked with many pottery experts but haven't got anything closest to yohem tenmoku glaze recipe, So is there anyone who can help me out to figure it how these wonderful bowls are done .
  6. https://photos.app.goo.gl/sA4GWePsvoQtE7gx6 Above is a link to the photo of an Eagle I sculpted. I mistakenly used low fire glazes on the head and feet while using cone 6 glazes on the body. Can I paint low fire glazes on the body to correct the problem? What would happen if I painted a low fire clear glaze on the body and re fired low range? Is there anything I can do to salvage the project? https://photos.app.goo.gl/sA4GWePsvoQtE7gx6
  7. Hi all, New here and first post. I am also very new to working with clay but have been really enjoying it and ready to learn more. I have constructed a clay Udu drum, it's like a vase with a curved bottom and a hole in the side. I haven't bisqued it yet and am looking for advice how I might glaze after bisquing so that I can achieve full coverage. I have attached a photo for you. Please let me know what other information I can provide to help getting a better answer. Would tripod stilts be sufficient? Looking forward to participating in this forum!
  8. Hello I used a series of 4 glazes layered on a recent set of plates. Every single one of them has crawled, especially on one particular colour which I’m guessing is the thicker application when layered? My question is, can I reglaze and refire them, perhaps to a lower temperature? They’ve been fired to cone 7 (electric), and it’s a Valentine’s Delta stoneware. I’ve refired plates before and they’ve broken right down the centre. I’ve seen people on here say they’ve had success with refiring and wondering if there’s a recommended technique. Attached a couple of photos of th
  9. I saw someone say that washing bisqueware before glazing can prevent dripping in the glaze fire because it makes it less absorbent when dipping in the glaze? Does anyone else do this? I'm worried it will make the glaze crawl or something weird.. Thoughts?
  10. Took some pots out of the kiln and noted pinholes in both the celadon (Amaco Sky) and satin matte (Amaco white) vases. This is one of my earliest glaze firings and I am curious as to the factors to investigate to better control this issue. Here is some data: 1. Both clay bodies are Sheffield 20231G clay 2. Bisque fired in my E23S L&L kiln (programmable) to Cone 06 (verified with actual cones as accurate). 3. These 2 examples were more than a year old before the glazes were applied. Wiped pots but NOT with damp sponge. Possible problem? 4. Applied 3 coats o
  11. Hi Everyone. I'm having major problems with pinholing and pitting. I am getting hundreds on pin holes on only the outside of small pots. I am using tucker's mid smooth stone and bisqueing to 04 with a 16 minute hold. I am dip glazing using amaco white with a 16 minute hold. I have noticed after I dip glaze that lots of popping bubbles appear on the outside of the pots in the glaze. More hold time? Is my kiln broken? Any help would be good . Thank you.
  12. Hello, I have recently set up my home studio to practice pottery alongside my course. I have a question about my glaze firing and wondered if anyone could help? I’ve just done my first glaze firing, I used Botz brush on glaze on my bisque fired white earthenware (bisque fired to 04) and glaze fired at 05. I’m wondering if I should of also done it on 04 as now they are out of the kiln they are pinging like a tinkling noise. The kiln was left for 24hrs before unloading. Ive read that this occurs also when the glaze doesn’t fit the clay, but the glaze is an earthenware glaze so I don’t
  13. I really need some help with the mixing of high fire glazes and medium. I have these 2 urns and my plan was to have a shiny white interior (stoneware 1200° C) interior with Amaco brush on on the outside, I've done the inside firing to 1200 with a 20min hold. My problem is that the interior has crawled badly so I thought I'd put crushed glass into it and refire, but having already fired to 1200 will the Amaco glazes actually work? TIA Andrea
  14. Youtube series that doesn't feel like a slow drip of valium: Earth Nation Ceramics video series. This is a much tamer example than the typical. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0QnOFsjTcY
  15. Wondering if anyone has experienced peeling of underglazes and/or colored slip when firing with raku clear glaze. One experienced potter suggesrwd adding EPK kaolin...Any similar experience out there?
  16. I am a newbie to firing my own pieces. I fired this mug to cone 6. It is Coyote's Pistachio Shino. In trying to remove some glaze around the design so it would stand out I did not apply enough to this area resulting in this brown patch. This is how this glaze behaves with thinner application. Could I add a bit more glaze to this area and refire? If so should I use the same firing program I did originally? I am sure there are other threads about this topic but I would really appreciate advice to my specific situation since this a gift for a friend's upcoming birthday!!
  17. Week 38 The nineteenth century chemist Herman Seger divided part of the oxides in glazes into three groups:______________________, neutral oxides, and acid oxides. reduction oxides (glass formers) oxidation oxides (bases) basic oxides (fluxes) all of the above These colors are only visible in an oxidation atmosphere. Up to 10220F. there will be no color inside the kiln. . .. . . . . becomes deep red at 14540F.. . . . . at around 21560F. it is a pale orange. . . At 233
  18. From the album: Glaze Combinations

    Mug for a local apple merchant. The body glaze is Coyote Red/Gold with a small accent of Gun Metal Green on the rim. Best results are achieved by leaving the upper 1/4-1/2" unglazed and then dipping into the green. The apple embellishment is hand-painted: Mayco Caramel (Cone 05) - Coyote Really Red and whatever green I'm in the mood for! Clay is Laguna BMix5

    © Whistle Tree Pottery - Ellijay, GA 2015

  19. I'd like to paint the bottom of my pieces as I don't care for the bare clay look. however I'm firing to cone 5 so I cant use stilts. I've been using Amaco Velvet underglaze which works somewhat but I still get some kiln wash on the piece. any suggestions???
  20. Hello potters, I really appreciate all the information you share on this website and, as a not-so-experienced potter, I try to experiment in my studio. I'm about to take part in a fair and sell my stuff for the first time, and as I dont have enough time to experiment before this (2 weeks to go!) I would like to ask you: Is it possible to use vaseline instead of was resist in glazing? Does it leave any marks on the pots? I imagine it is not a very friendly material to burn, but I may not have time to search for wax (i havent found it yet here in São Paulo - Brazil) and Im planning
  21. Hi! I understood there are some very experienced ceramic artists here, so I decided to ask this question here. I have a problem. I have a thin porcelain wall and light goes through it easily. I want to totally block this light from going through with the most opaque glazing possible (still has to look good). I have tried different concentrations of tin oxide mixed into normal glazing (from 5% to 30%), but still some light passes through! Do you have any ideas? How would you make the most opaque glazing? Best regards, Harry the Potter
  22. I am making a rather large, slightly curved bullnose. I will need to glaze one end of it. Since it is large (12 "x10") I fire resting on the shelf. But I'll need to glaze one long end of it. What is the best way to support this so not to glaze it to the kiln shelf? Thanks. Linda
  23. Hello, I am using AMACO glazes for the first time, and I need some kind advice. AMACO site shows wonderful effects when two layers of different glazes are used. I coated (brushed) the bottom part of one cup with three layers of PC20 and the second one with three layers of PC23, and trailed the top parts of each cup with three layers of PC53 with small overlap. According to the site info, I had to fire it once at 2195 deg.F with long down-fire. I programmed my kiln for 15 minutes exposure at 2195 deg.F with further down fire to 2012 deg.F for 60 min., followed by 5 minutes exposure and furt
  24. I was in the studio yesterday unpacking the last of my pots. Day after Christmas. My son looked at a plate and said;"Dad, you really "effed it up on this brushwork!" It was a bird on a dinner plate. The brush had skipped along the bottom line. My other son called me aside and said in a low, conspiratorial voice; "Dad, I want you to REALLY try your best on this next batch of work." I said I would try. I thought I was trying my best. They are both teenagers. They mean well and are genuinely thinking that they are helping me.Maybe I need to try harder and do better work in 2014. TJR
  25. I would like to make stoppers for stoneware cruets and bottles so that they'll match vs trying to find food quality corks or those plastic pour spout things. I usually glaze fire lids on when I make covered bowls and such, but if I want the bottle necks to be glazed inside, I can't do that. Just thinking about it, I can't decide how I would glaze fire the stoppers. The lower portion of the stoppers will be bare and the part that shows will be glazed. Since they will be tallish and thin and probably not balanced, they can't be stood up on the shelf all by themselves. Do any of you wonderfu
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