neilestrick Posted November 21, 2016 Report Share Posted November 21, 2016 Cone 3 crystalline would be mind blowing. Imagine doing long holds and not frying your elements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glazenerd Posted November 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2016 I'll need some clay bodies to run tests on. Get to work. How many lbs do you need? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SydneyGee Posted November 21, 2016 Report Share Posted November 21, 2016 Well then, nerds, you two are on to something that will change the industry forever! I would be completely willing to use a cone 2-3 clay as long as it had the feel and qualities I like. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Bridge Pottery Posted November 21, 2016 Report Share Posted November 21, 2016 I remember reading that most porcelain in industry is cone1-3. Don't know how accurate that info is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glazenerd Posted November 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2016 Joel: correct!! Nerd Neil: will make 1000 gram batches this weekend, of each of the four. Do some shrinkage, absorption, and mechanical tests on them. I have a couple of glazes I can modify for cone 2/3... do some preliminary testing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted November 21, 2016 Report Share Posted November 21, 2016 I'll need a couple hundred pounds so I can do throwing tests, too. This stuff needs to work for big stuff as well as small. I can make 50 pound planters with my current porcelain, Standard 365, without any cracking or warping. So once you get some recipes just send them over to me and I can get the raw materials and mix them up myself. I'll make them up as slip and dry them out to workable consistency. Are you making stoneware and porcelain? Ultimately we'll need porcelain, smooth white stoneware, tan stoneware (with and without speckles) and something dark. Probably need a grogged version of the white stoneware, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glazenerd Posted November 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 21, 2016 Already have 2-each of stoneware (white) and porcelain. Speckles are easy, and raising iron content is also easy. The big dogs dictate what is sold in the industry; but there are many other varieties available. Nerd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glazenerd Posted November 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 Is this enough strength for you Neil? Nerd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted November 22, 2016 Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 Looks good! But can I throw it big? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glazenerd Posted November 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 Coma T12 is a tile body: which would be easy enough to convert for throwing. The above piece was slab rolled to an 1/8" and pressed molded. It stood on its own, and endured firing: so I have every reason to believe that it would throw very large pieces. Delivered 25lbs of my stoneware body to a community studio in St. Louis a few weeks back: they are throwing bowls with 3/16" walls: another good indication. It pings like bone china after they fired it: was over there last week looking at results. Lots of things you can do to a clay body: just never done because it costs 5-10 cents a lb more to do it. Nerd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted November 22, 2016 Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 Potters are cheap. Really cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joseph Fireborn Posted November 22, 2016 Report Share Posted November 22, 2016 If I could have a cone 2/3 vitrified stoneware. I would swap to it right now. I am like Neil I already use a lot of Frit's anyways. So its only gonna be 5-8%(i presume) more increase my melt to start at cone 3 instead of 6. But the element life alone would be amazing. Of course I haven't done much lately with clay, so I can't weigh in here much, but I see 0 reasons why not use the lowest available temp that we can get good looking glazes melting at. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted November 23, 2016 Report Share Posted November 23, 2016 Nerd after some thought on your low fire inquiries increasing on this board I need to point out that many are hobbyists on this forum . Low fire and now cone 6 is that market. For a point of reference all the potters I know making a living are not doing so in electric kilns or working with low fire or even cone 6. Most use gas as its larger kilns fired for cheaper. Just head down to a large show in your area this summer and check it out-say one of the Ann Arbor shows. Even our local collages and art center is mostly gas and high fire. There is some low fire art work in these places but it not the majority of the work. I think there is a market for lower cone clay especially in electric kiln market but just know that most production potters I know (big clay users ) are not on this forum and thats because they are spending their free time off the net or at least talking about their craft. The thing that will take the most time and money I feel is getting glazes to look good and work at those lower temps. I pay .21 cents per pound for porcelain and $85 a ton to ship it to me so theres not a lot of money in clay-it will be the other stuff. I try to keep costs low(basic business concept) but cost is not my biggest factor its that it works for me. I will say again I could not do what I do with electric kilns the production exceeds any realistic cost on that level for me. Good luck with this venture as there is a market I'm sure for it. Neil I'm not cheap about much or that is what others tell me.I think most potters are cheap though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glazenerd Posted November 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2016 Mark: My over-achiever, Type A personality, with just a hint of obsessive compulsion, multiplied by boredom requires me to explore new spaces.-----------besides, I am a Nerd!! Nerd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glazenerd Posted November 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 My little test kiln had nothing to do yesterday, so I fired it up. Modified C3 temmoku glaze on a "seconds" tile. The blisters and pits are in the tile, not the glaze. Fairly uniform melt, very very close. Firing schedule plays a very important part in cone 3 firings. Nerd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted November 24, 2016 Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 Any reason you're doing cone 3 rather than cone 2? My feeling is the lower the better to reap maximum benefits from firing lower. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glazenerd Posted November 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2016 Gotta start somewhere, (2115F peak) the glaze was fluid enough to flow over the edges of the test tile. So that tells me I can go lower. Nerd Did a cone 3 clear with no gum or clay additions, just seeing how it would melt. This one was extremely fluid, could easily drop another 50-60F. On a seconds tile= lumps and bumps are in the tile. Did not sieve it either, just merely checking melt. >>brushed on.. 2088F .... here I come Have to get clay to mature; more important than melting glaze. ZERO frits!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joseph Fireborn Posted November 25, 2016 Report Share Posted November 25, 2016 interesting stuff. keep it coming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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