Reylocs Posted July 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2015 Yes i appologise I am getting frusta ated. I really do appreciate the help. This apparently is quite complicated. Says paragon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Bridge Pottery Posted July 24, 2015 Report Share Posted July 24, 2015 There are always many more questions than answers Have you tried it in the kiln you have and it was unsuccessful? I don't know what electrical wizardry is in the kiln but having little knowledge and trying to take it apart sounds like a bad idea. You could try adding on an element expansion that has no connection with the other electrics and control it yourself., possibly. It would be sketchy at best because it sounds like the controller is doing some analysis more than what temperature it is at. I am still confused on what you are actually melting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark C. Posted July 24, 2015 Report Share Posted July 24, 2015 I'm a potter not a glass person(other tha making my own glazes which are glass)-this is a glass kiln you need. I'm out of advise-I have less than zero experience casting Boro. I do know something about glory holes. Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reylocs Posted July 24, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2015 Im sorry borosilicate glass Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted July 24, 2015 Report Share Posted July 24, 2015 Just about any temperature controller can be used to control a kiln, or part of a kiln, because the controller doesn't carry the load of the elements. The load is carried by a relay, which is switched by the controller. What type of relay you need will depend on the amperage pulled by the elements, wiring configuration, and the type of output on the controller. The relay will be single or double pole, depending on whether you're running it on 120 or 208/240 volts. It should be rated for at least 25% more amperage than the actual draw, 50% wold be even better. The controller could have an output of 12, 24,120 or 240 volts to switch the relay, depending on the controller. All these voltages must work together, and with properly sized wiring, for all of it to work. Unfortunately we can't get more specific than that on a forum- there's just too many variables at play here to walk you through it with any specificity. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judy_in_GA Posted July 24, 2015 Report Share Posted July 24, 2015 So if Wiki below is to be believed you need 3000F. According to Olympic website Model - TOPHAT 2814E/240 or 208 volt Inside dimensions: 28 ¼ " wide x 13½ " deep, fires to cone 10/2350°F, built with 3" brick and equipped with lid element for glass fusing. 2350 to 3000 is a pretty big difference. And yes this is a ceramic forum but you have lots of artists on here with experience in other disciplines. Borosilicate, or "boro" (as it is often called), is used extensively in the glassblowing process lampworking; the glassworker uses a burner torch to melt and form glass, using a variety of metal and graphite tools to shape it. Borosilicate is referred to as "hard glass" and has a higher melting point (approximately 3,000 degrees Fahrenheit / 1648 degrees Celsius) than "soft glass," which is preferred for glassblowing by beadmakers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joseph Fireborn Posted July 24, 2015 Report Share Posted July 24, 2015 I thought you used a continuous furnace for this type of work that ran 24/7. I don't know a lot about glass but, I know that I have talked to people who have furnaces running 24/7 for those temps. Could be completely wrong here, but just putting this here based on some searches I ran. I am bored. Going to sleep now. http://www.parkerglassfurnace.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggoodman Posted July 24, 2015 Report Share Posted July 24, 2015 I have elements, i have a controller, i know hjow to put the elements into the lid. I dont know if the watts,amps controller will work. I thought someone might answer that could help me with figuring the part i dont get out. I might be in the wrong place i guess. I know what i need, i have seen the equipment its done with. Unfortunately i saw the equipment after my kiln purchase. The equipment had a top element. I guess i will try a kiln manufacturer for glass commercial ovens maybe. This helps us answer your question... Seems most individuall elements need a 20 amp circut my skutt has 3 hence 60amp service. you need to figure out the current draw for your kiln. then figure the current draw for whatever element you choose to buy. this is the service rating for the the breaker for the line. as to modding a controller to drive multiple relays it would depend on the controller as there is a ton of varriation. I cant say specificly because I cant see your kiln. it can be done but I cant tell you what to do over the web a lot of liability there. but if u need the direct radiant heat provided by a lid I done see why you ouldnt use the existing controller to drive the elements in the kiln body and a seporate controller for the lid....or you can get a 3 zone controller to run custum programs and remember them for recall. a simple pis can do the same minus the recall options if your using more than one schedule. a thermal couple at the hight and in the area of the shelf your work is on could be used to drive the temp controller for the lid to help you hit and hold a specific temp at the top shelf. but thenas said earlier at cone 6 and 10 temps the element in the lid is pointless. Routing a t slot or similar in the lid would prevent the element for falling out barring the brick failing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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