Hyn Patty

This is totally not my kind of work but WHAT A COOL THREAD! Thank you to everyone who added input, details about how to do this, photo examples. You are all the best. I may have to try this some day - as if I don't already have more on my plate than I have time to keep up with! Hahaha. But, nice read. Thanks for sharing.

There abouts, yes. Cone 016 to 018 range would be fine. This is NOT something that traditional china painting groups know about or use. Trust me, I've been pursuing this for a while. I've chatted with countless suppliers and top workshop teachers. Everyone either wants high gloss or at most uses matting agents to achieve satin finishes by adding it directly to the pigments. That's the standard. There is only one company I have found that still bothers with matte china paints at all. It's long since fallen out of fashion, to be honest. I did just pick up a /matte/ additive I am testing (rather than satin) but it also had no effect when added to a clear gloss flux. So what I am looking for here is something very unusual among over glaziers but isn't absolutely /unheard/ of. So I'll check the group linked to but yeah that's not likely a helpful source. I am the queen of doing things outside of the norm or that people insist simply can't be done - and then making breakthroughs and finding ways to make it happen anyway! It's kind of my credo. If it's impossible, I accept the challenge and make it happen. The other thing I'm looking for are NON TOXIC over glazes that are OPAQUE. The enamels I have and use currently for that purpose are full of lead and cadmium and I just HATE to put that stuff through an airbrush - no matter what health precautions I take. They are however compatible with china paints and fired in the same ranges more or less. It allows me an option to go back and lighten pieces in select areas that just get too dark. I do have a few leads there that I'm looking into but I haven't nailed anything down yet in the firing range I require.

For those of you who do overglazing using china paints (or enamels for that matter - I use both as well as underglazing) flux is available to add to pigments to make them shinier or to use as a final top coat. There are various materials like zinc oxide that can be added as a matting agent to dim the gloss of overglazes. This is normally added directly to the pigments to make them satin or velvety matte in the final finish. Using too much though will lighten the colors, making black for example turn into a dark grey. BUT there doesn't seem to be an option for making a final top coat for a satin or matte finish to make all of the overglaze uniform. I've tried adding matting agents to clear gloss flux and my tests still come out high gloss. I have no option obviously of reducing the silica content of the flux, only adding tons more of the matting agents. I will try more testing and much higher ratios to see if I can possibly make a dent in the flux high gloss but I'm worried it will fog. If anyone here has any suggestions, I'd love to hear it! I've searched and searched and made lots of phone calls to no avail from china painting dealers. I have one lead I am chasing but more leads would be good.

Yes, I've used all of this before and notes are not what I wanted. Yesterday in the 'Manage Image' drop down menu 'Edit Details' was not there! I went back and tried it several times yesterday and it wasn't showing up or the link wouldn't work and load the next page to do so. BUT it does seem to be working today. I just logged in and tried it and it works fine now. I don't know what the issue was but it was definitely driving me nuts because I have used that feature many times and it simply wasn't working this time. Anyway, I don't know if someone fixed it, or if it was merely bad luck that that data was getting interrupted every time I tried it. Thanks for looking into it either way!

I have no idea where to put this topic so PLEASE move it where it is most appropriate. None of the categories seem to fit technical issues. For some reason I can upload photos to my own gallery album for Hyn Patty LLC but unlike before, now I can't seem to edit them to add any information except tags. What happened? It didn't used to be difficult at all for me to edit and add information after the photo was uploaded. Now I have new photos added but I can't find any means to add info. Thanks.

I'd go with one of the bisque fix materials myself. Adding paper IMO just makes for a bulkier but weaker filler. Once fired the paper will leave a lot of voids. Great for light weight, not so much for strength. If you can roughen up the edges of the cracks you'll get a stronger join so the bisque fix has something to 'grab' and hold together better than smooth surfaces. Some small diamond coated files or diamond coated dremel tips will make short work of roughing and slightly widening the cracks. Good to remove any loose pieces too that would otherwise be at risk of flaking off.

I'd go ahead and fire it as it is - breaks can be fixed post firing as you mentioned. If she still wants a mold made of it then she could use a brush on silicone rubber like Mold Max Stroke, make a plaster mother mold shell around it, then cast her back up in other non-clay materials like plaster or resin. This is called a waste mold and isn't intended to be used for lots of production casting. If she wanted to cast a lot of resins or plasters then she'd want a rubber block mold. She could then cast a thin hollow rubber version using Mold Max Stroke, filled with a plaster core after the rubber sets, from which she can then practice making plaster molds for slip casting. Fill with resin instead of plaster if it's particularly fragile with thin parts. Making the rubber thin and supporting it with plaster (either core or mother shell depending on whether it's the mold negative, or the master positive,) would save her a ton of money on casting rubber which isn't cheap. The smaller sample bottles available from places like Smooth-On are ideal for projects like this if her piece isn't very big.

Good advice here already but I have a suggestion. Swap out your stoneware embedding clay for oil clay.

Just want to say BRAVO! Have no fear and jump right in. Even if you ruin it, you'll learn from it. Biggest problem I run into teaching is that people are /afraid/ of failure. I've killed countless plants learning how to grow and propagate them, and I've ruined many a painting and sculpture, mold, and casting. But I learn best by DOING. So jump right in and don't be afraid. You got this! Start simple, take small steps and if you need help, that's what we are here for!

Here is another VanTiki video, this one only focusing on making a plaster mold. This one also shows you about how to make your mold walls using wood (usually a simple box you can slide to adjust sizes, this one is more of a chair form. You can also make your molds using Lego blocks instead of sealed wood which is my choice when I'm making smaller molds to pour.

You already got great reponses here so I have little to add! Most of my originals are sculpted in oil clay and initially I did all of my plaster molds directly from them. If you are careful to use oil clays that are sulfur free you can also avoid most issues with rubber conflicts. As already noted however, if you are pouring large plaster sections the heat can cause your oil clay originals to melt and deform just like with wax originals. Once you get some practice and confidence, and you move into higher end pieces you invested a lot of time into sculpting, you may also wish to consider casting rubber masters. If you make a rubber master of your original, and rubber master pieces of your mold parts you planned to use in plaster, then you can simply recast more plaster production molds over and over again from your rubber masters. Plaster molds, especially those with very fine detail such as my work, are only good for about ten to twenty casts before the molds will begin to show wear. The more detailed and complicated the mold the faster you will see problems, especially if you do not clean and store your plaster molds properly after each use. Simple, low detail molds will last a lot longer. VanTiki posts wonderful Technical Tuesday Youtube videos that may be hugely helpful to you to learn mold making. There are also some great blog posts out there if you do internet searches. Here's a great video on rubber master molds for plaster slip casting right here. He posts a lot of videos on regular plaster mold making so look him up!

Sharp sand is just builder's sand. Get it at any building supply store - as opposed to play sand which is finer and more like dust.

First, glad to help if I am able. Also, thank you for the kind words about my website. Another issue I thought of that might be worth keeping in mind - but you may already be aware. Do NOT handle bisqueware with your bare hands unless you have thoroughly washed them with soap first, or wear gloves. I have to pre-fire all of my bisqueware clients send to me in a low fire before glazing. They are always handling their bisques and getting skin oils and dirt over the surface. This is not as huge an issue with earthenware but with porcelain bodies (and especially bone china) this can cause serious issues with the glazes, or even underglazes, to not stick to the bisque. Especially in firing it'll encourage the glazes to crawl or flake off! So, cleanliness is a must when handling bisqueware. Any contaminants, even dust, can cause this problem. Keep that in mind when you are ready to glaze. Also the coefficiency of the glaze you are using vs the claybody can cause problems. Just like in blending types of glass, if your glaze expansion and contraction rates are not a good 'fit' for your clay it can cause issues later, though not usually the kind you are having. Even so, it may be worth testing another brand of glaze to see if you have less problems. Simply changing to a leaded glaze, or off of a leaded glaze for example can make a big difference.

Any luck so far? Yes, feel free to ping me and we can discuss it. And no, you don't need any special glazes. I glaze fine bone china all of the time using standard low fire glazes. Now the thread is about a year old I imagine you've moved on but if you are still having trouble getting your glaze to stick, you can also put a thin layer of white underglaze onto the china body first as that is often easier to get to stay put. I use an airbrush but you can brush or sponge it thinly. LOW fire it to something like cone 04. That'll give you a toothier surface to work with that can grab your real glaze layer you want over the surface. Then fire normally at whatever cone you need for that last glaze layer - the underglaze will be fine. DO NOT try to apply your glaze over the underglaze before you have fired the underglaze into place. Obviously if the other tricks mentioned earlier work, and can save you a step and a firing, that is better but this will also work if nothing else is! When you overfire low fire overglazes they just turn glossy and go darker but if you use a white underglaze that won't matter. It may knock down some of your transparency slightly, but assuming you apply it thinly in a single layer you probably won't even notice because it goes from opaque to pretty transparent once a glaze is applied over it. Unless you put it on too thickly. Another option of course (depending on the effects you are aiming for) is to skip a glaze entirely and use a low fire overglaze directly on your bisque. China paints or enamels. They don't handle like a glaze at all but still give you amazing effects. Final finish can be adjusted with a flux layer over it for high gloss, satin, matte, etc. The only limiting factor of using overglazes is that many of them can be toxic and not food safe. There are however non-toxic varieties if you look around. Good luck!

Depends on the results you want. If you leave glass etching paste on too long it'll make your glaze turn frosty, somewhat opaque white! In this case it could make the sculpture look pink. But if you don't leave it on very long you can kill that gloss and not have any substantial frosting. So test a small discreet area first or prep a test tile to decide how long to leave it for best results. The paste isn't cheap so you don't want to waste it by applying it and then wiping it off too soon, then have to apply it again...