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Showing results for tags 'sculpting'.
Found 5 results
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Hi, I am a VERY amateur artist but I like to experiment with clay and sculpting. I recently used Sculpey oven-bake clay to create a bowl (flat at the bottom, more like a mug without handles haha). I applied 2 coats of Sculpey gloss glaze all over. It was pretty successful so I’m now inspired to make some mini teacups! My bowl is waterproof due to the glaze, but would hot water ruin the teacups/glaze in any way? Thank you so much!
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If I don't have this in the correct place my apologies. Just like to share a video of myself sculpting a hand. It's my first attempt and was told it's difficult and it certainly is. If you'd like to have a watch check out the link below. Thanks for the support and for all the potters in the North spring is coming and show time is around the corner. Good Luck!
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I've finally gotten to the point where I like the look of some characters I've created (round little fun animals) and I'd like to try making a mold of them for slip casting. I'm a little lost as to how to go about it. Do I use a different type of clay that doesn't harden to sculpt and then create the mold with plaster? or use regular clay and let it dry (or even fire it??) then create the mold. I'd prefer to avoid firing the piece so that I don't have to worry about keeping it hollow and can just concentrate on the design. any advice would be appreciated! or links to tutorials. I've been searching but haven't found the right one. The attached picture is an early design but gives you an idea, I assume i'll have to modify for molding to avoid undercuts.
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Currently I use paper clay for sculpting and it seems to work OK. I have heard some great things about Highwaters Phoenix clay. I live in the North eastern part of Ohio, would anyone know of a local clay supplier with similar characteristics. The thermal shock properties seem to make it sound like a bullet proof clay for functional sculpture. I have even heard it was used for raku. I would be sculpting at various thicknesses. Firing it to a lower cone 6-7 would be my game plan to reduce some of the problems that might occur at cone 10. At 6-7 with a glaze the absorption rate should be acceptable. I gather that the described fine mullite grog is actually pretty coarse. As the mullite gets finer from what I understand it gets weaker and less forgiving. Would anyone know how the mullite compares to standards 630 or compares to 630 in general? All in all it may be worth getting the clay, It is cheaper than standards clays, but it's quite a drive to a supplier.
