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Everything posted by liambesaw

  1. Lots of gassy ingredients in the recipe too. Calcium carbonate, barium carbonate, bone ash, all have high loss on ignition and are sources for bubbles.
  2. You can see a horizontal wobble too though if you watch the video
  3. Peroxide is extremely good at killing both mold AND spores, it also degrades into water and oxygen and wont affect the chemistry of the clay. How you would add this to the clay I have no idea. I suppose you could spray it before it's used, or add some while pugging. Most people are allergic to spores, so as long as the surfaces are taken care of it should be fine. Spores require air to form, so the insides of the clay should not be allergenic
  4. Also remember that zinc will bleach out red/pink/purples.
  5. Boy it's all over the place... Bent shaft or shot bearings? This one will be difficult to suss out without taking it apart. It has a left and right wobble as well as an up and down, if I had to guess right now I'd say bent shaft
  6. I feel like this happens more with larger forms that are left on a bat to dry without flipping them before leather hard. Like one side shrinks up when the bottom pulls on it.
  7. Heh, just what we call little ventilation/bathroom fans around here. My old roommate was an hvac apprentice and he used to come home with broken "fart fans" all the time.
  8. Try it out and see how hot it gets inside. If it ends up getting too hot, and it's computer controlled, it may shut down from overheating the computer. You can always add a fart fan to one of the roof vents if it gets too bad in there.
  9. Thanks, this glazeless application was definitely a new process for me, but I still can't sell anything right now so instead of making mugs and bowls every night I've turned to drugs. Wait, no, not that, I've turned to just having fun with stuff and not making things that have a price tag. Crackle slip, iron wash, and then soaked in a mixture of soda ash, sodium silicate and bone ash. Came out just how I pictured it in my mind beforehand!
  10. I usually do, and I usually don't do it right there on the ground. I also do mine wet and then hose them down afterwards, makes for an easy application of shelf wash
  11. Either or. There's going to be an optional battery connection inside, or a nc female jack mounted into a hole in the side. Another one I'm working on is using neon indicator bulbs instead of LEDs and that one will be wired for AC... Well... Because neon.
  12. Here's one of the finished lamps. Using low power LEDs. Not bad for a prototype!
  13. There's some cheap ones on Amazon too. They do cut through glaze way faster than a masonry disc. Here's a video I made showing the process: https://youtu.be/2SYuCtHEszc
  14. I've always used underglaze on leather hard work because it's so frustrating to apply on bisque and you can't remove mistakes. I also use a lot of underglaze transfers and they don't really work on bisque. That said, what has worked for me is spraying the surface with a spray bottle until the surface takes about one second to absorb the water, at that point you have a pretty good buffer of moisture to help keep the brush from sticking, but not too much where the underglaze runs or spreads. A pretty fine line, and spraying more sometimes causes it to run afterward.
  15. Lustre overglaze dries to hard layer so I think any method will work ok. It might be slightly sticky so avoid anything that might stick to it like sawdust.
  16. Yes it'll be a problem, the test tiles will probably melt at cone 6 if they're cone 04 clay. Clay is pyroplastic, meaning at high temperatures it will deform, it doesn't make a good weight bearing support
  17. Had to mention it, its not quite as caustic as pure lye but definitely wouldn't want to wash your hands in it! I used to have to clean the wood stove as a kid and one time I thought it would be easier if I used my hands instead of the tiny shovel, everything was fine until I washed my hands. Ouch.
  18. It might flux at low fire on top of a low fire glaze. You'll have to test it out. I think ash by itself needs around cone 8 to melt. I'd mix it like a glaze thickness if I was going to put it on over glaze. Careful, unwashed ash is caustic and can give you a burn.
  19. On my red clay this happens with every white glaze I've tried
  20. Sounds like a fault with the clay, not with your methods. You may be drying it out too much with your wedging. If it's pugged clay from the manufacturer try just using it straight from the bag and see if that helps. Some clays are just short.
  21. I just gouge the glaze out and fill with kiln wash. I used to grind it level but where the glaze was would end up shrinking down and making a divot anyway.
  22. You're looking for a diamond cup wheel for your angle grinder. Wear an n95 or n100 respirator, eye protection and gloves and do it outdoors. It will clean large drips off in a matter of seconds. You won't break the shelf, but you can go too deep and remove a chunk if you're not careful.
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