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liambesaw

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Everything posted by liambesaw

  1. Unfortunately some suppliers just assume people don't care about crazing. Be specific and tell them the glazes you were suggested crazed on the clay you bought from them.
  2. Pinging isn't caused by cooling, it's caused by a glaze that doesn't fit a specific clay body. If you're stuck using commercial glazes try looking for a "low expansion" glaze, or asking the clay supplier what glazes fit your clay body.
  3. Wow this amazes me, I make soy candles and the wax strikes me as something that doesn't soak in well and hardens really fast in contact with something cold like ceramic. Very interesting! I have only used the soy wax made for no-waste candles, maybe it's different than the stuff you can use on pots. It's soy 444 for reference, and is quite a pain but doesn't shrink much which is why I use it for candles (no cracks or reflowing)
  4. So true. To the point of constant annoyance
  5. I'd say a production potter has designed a line of functional pots, has developed durable glazes that fit those pots, and makes those pots over and over again. A hobby potter is someone making hobby pots. Doing pots here and there, no real set design or style, just making what they want and selling it occasionally. One of the ways I can tell if someone is a hobby potter or a production potter is to look at their mugs. If theres not a stack of mugs 100% identical in form on their shelves, they're a hobby potter! The mug is like the backbone/money maker and you gotta make hundreds and hundreds a year to keep up with selling them. When you make that many, you get good at them fast. So I'd say overall the difference is consistency and volume.
  6. I've got kids so crazed stuff doesn't last very long in my house. Crazed pottery is quite fragile, consider each craze line as the start of a crack through the vessel.
  7. That's a great point, but the weird passive aggressive stuff should probably be kept to yourself.
  8. It is just a single point of energy as far as the ceramic is concerned, unless the beam is sweeping at the speed of light, right? If the beam is unfocused it loses its ability to heat. If you were looking at this from a 2D perspective, that definitely would work. But the depth of the ceramic would prevent even heating from ever happening. The surface may be 3000 degrees, but just below could be room temperature. If you would like to provide more information as to what your goals are, you may be able to get more specific answers.
  9. Yeah get rid of all that nonsense and you've got a glazing and kiln room
  10. My supplier sells natural iron oxide and Spanish iron oxide, I have to get the 99% stuff from uspigment
  11. Holy guacamole! Super nice! And look at them high ceilings, I'm imagining all the stuff I could stack up!
  12. There's still less oxygen in the inside of a mug in an oxidation firing
  13. I figured the inside of a cylinder would act as a reflector, I almost always get a more fluid melt inside cylinders.
  14. It does get hotter, it also gets less oxygen
  15. My suppliers have real bone ash at 3 dollars a pound in a 50lb bag, and 2 dollars a pound for TCP.
  16. I have 2 half shelves because there's no full shelves for my kiln. But in my old octagonal kiln I had a full shelf in the bottom. Can't count the number of times it saved my butt!
  17. In small amounts flocculants normally flocculate particles of clay. But if there is too much flocculant added it only flocculates itself. It has an affinity for itself, so the only way to really remove it is to add something that makes it insoluble and then filter it out. You can get it freezing cold and then sieve it, I think this is the best way. Or you can wait til the summer and remove the water. With all of those soluble ingredients it will probably alter the glaze chemistry a bit when you remove the water, but it should be OK. If you want to experiment you can take a small quantity of glaze and add soda ash solution, this should cause the epsom salts to precipitate out.
  18. Not yet! The problem with using a focused beam is that clay 1) shrinks quite a lot when fired and 2) has a really bad time with temperature gradients.
  19. When it thawed the water from the ice caused it to collapse
  20. It fell apart when it thawed, I was thinking the same thing!
  21. Oh sure, I agree with .3:.7, I'm just saying that paper made no sense, because even at .3:.7 there was significant leaching above 3% copper. I'd just say restricted compared to what? And how do they know? The evidence is missing from the paper.
  22. Yeah but if it says the ratio made the glazes durable with no leaching, but then a few paragraphs later talked about how they leached quite a lot. So that throws the entire premise out the window in my book. I do believe that the most durable glazes keep within that range, but obviously copper had a very large affect on the durability, so their premise that copper would not affect durability is false.
  23. That was my issue with the paper, it contradicts itself quite a few times in the durability section.
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