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Everything posted by liambesaw

  1. Should be repairable if the problem is the pedal. If you have a local electronics repair place try taking it to them.
  2. Many definitions, the scientific one is solid nonmetallic oxide. Another is nonmetallic solid that hardens with heat. Doesn't matter though, going on a percentage scale any of these works are 99% ceramic with <1% paint.
  3. It's a cone 10 glaze, adding lithium drops it to cone 6ish. But agreed, if you like it, keep it up JUst when I see people say something isn't possible I like to show possible solutions I'm a ceramics purist, but only with my own stuff, I don't care what other people do, it's their vision
  4. Oh neat! Yeah it's fairly steam punky, remind me of some of the old gasworks around seattle. Your copper spray thing, there actually is a glaze just like it. It's called pinnell weathered bronze by Pete pinnell. It's a copper patina where thick and a rust brown where thinner/over texture. If you ever get curious about trying to tackle it with glaze in the future.
  5. Looks like a glaze to me. Satin matte. If it were a slip there is almost zero chance it would be food safe, especially with a copper green like that.
  6. I have 2 seattle pottery kilns (formerly crucible kilns) and they work quite well. But then again, I feel like any kiln will work quite well, they're all essentially the same now, with the exception of l&l which are engineered to be easy to do maintenance on.
  7. I've noticed I'm getting a lot more commissions than usual
  8. It's less about bisquing higher and more about bisquing slower. Try to really slow things down from 1200⁰f to 1700⁰f and see how it goes. Bloating is typically from OVER firing, or firing too fast to cone 6. The outside of the clay becomes glassy and gas from inside the clay cannot escape any longer.
  9. Yes, but there are many reasons they might reject ceramics that are painted instead of glazed. Paint is not a durable finish, paint fades over time, paint breaks off and chips due to changes in humidity, there are all sorts of reasons a gallery would want a ceramic sculpture to be glazed instead of painted. It may have nothing to do with how artistic it is.
  10. I'd say right around 018, so a little cooler. I've had some iron and titanium glazes shift color during lustre firings.
  11. I spend 3 weeks on a piece and use ceramic decoration. I also make 20 mugs in a day. Some are art, some are functional. A lot never make it out of my studio. A lot get the end of a hammer. I've had kiln loads, hundreds and hundreds of hours of work, just not end up right at all. The risk involved is part of the value. The hours of work are always there, art or functional work. A person doesn't buy an artisan mug because they need a vessel to drink from. They buy it for the same reason someone buys one of your sculptures. IKEA sells mugs for 3 dollars, and they work and look good. I don't see any problem with cold finish on ceramics, but there is a plethora of reasons why a gallery or juror may not be interested. I've had my functional pottery rejected, I've had my art pottery rejected, it's just part of the process when you open it up to someone else judging/jurying your work.
  12. Yes make sure not to use iron chromate, it is an extremely potent carcinogen!
  13. The lid should settle back to normal, or at least close enough to latch. As far as the work goes, I assure you it's fine!
  14. I think you've found the issue, the lid was not latched and it's designed to be latched while firing. Heat turns lids into domes as the brick expands against the steel ring. It can go concave or convex but either way it's going to deform a bit while firing. In a non-latching kiln the hinges are sloppy and allow for the lid to self adjust as it heats up. But I think in your case, since it's got that latch it's designed to be latched during firing to prevent the lid from pulling back and up. I'd just cut the heat now and refire after it's cooled and latched.
  15. Cool! I've been to Quezon city many times, it's very nice there! How did you land that gig!?
  16. Looks like some drying issues. Try to dry slowly, remove from the bat at leather hard, dry on the rim if possible.
  17. Only thing I can really think of is maybe the lack of permenance? Paint on ceramics hasn't fared well historically. Or maybe that it's so easy to spot and looks painted? Not sure. Seems like something that would be encouraged in the art world, but I'm not part of the art world.
  18. Drop and hold helps with pinholes better than a top soak. Don't ask me why, I'm unsure. Maybe some carbonate or sulfate in the clay stop dissociating when the temperature drops 100⁰f, or maybe it's just magic, but it works much better in my experience with dirty clays.
  19. At my home studio the only people who pilfer pots are neighbors and family, which is 100% OK with me and I've told them all so. In high school/college the only pots that disappeared after firing were incognito bongs and pipes and I know the teachers accidentally lost them on purpose Right now on my bench I've got several more lamp projects and coffee pourovers. This lamp has 7 soviet era neon bulbs (nixie lamps) to provide a warm communist orange glow.
  20. At cone 10 reduction barium is a very good glassy flux
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