Hulk

Oooh, I like all those too, even Simon, haha, "Oh Hi there, how are you, potters, friends, utubers?" Ton a day Isaac Button, classic; first of four segments https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fmG5NOmQy_4 Michael Casson, here's one of his - there are a few others https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=19YjNGEtUYo (I like his book too) Still watching this one 'bout once a month, Genji Shimizu (artist name Hokujoh) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ybb-HhSrtxA&t=8s NHK Ceramic Treasures series - some great stuff here https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLUCSFSJSz477hmqwO98PWp940W_voWW7W Clinton Pottery clip https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bs2tUxKQIic&t=70s Tim See - not seeing many potters anchoring hand on the away side to center - works for him https://www.youtube.com/user/timseepots ...where's the German lady, and the Swedish lady, hrrrm… (still looking) Add Bill Van Gilder https://www.youtube.com/user/vangilderpottery/videos

OEM, third party, (may I add) used/repurposed, or (also adding) fabricated part(s) - depends; I have and will weigh the factors and try to make the best decision. Hi Ken! Your question probably belongs in its own thread under Equipment Use and Repair topic. Replacing a switch, my guess would be that the replacement switch should match up in terms of amperage rating. Could you supply the model number, voltage and amperage of your kiln, and perhaps some pics as well.

Using commercial clays (Aardvark and Clay Planet), underglazes (Speedball), and commercial ceramic materials for glazes. The underglazes seem to behave well. Having been frustrated with mystery ingredient glazes from the (very) start, jumped right in - still swimming, no regrets there. Not completely sold on any of the clays I've tried so far; each has at least one drawback (as well as some great features). For foreseeable future, working with the problems and trying different clays will have to do, as I'm not ready (nor willing) to invest in clay mixing tools and ingredients, let alone storage space. That said, just Nerd's reclaim admix is enough to pique interest... Other stuff, hmm, went with non-commercial sponges, pointer tools, bats, and trimming tools (repurposed saw blades) right away, wood knife and ribs next - looking to pick up an inexpensive belt sander... I really like the thin and flexy metal ribs, should I find thin stainless sheeting, might snip out my own metal ribs as well.

The (beefy casting, very heavy, smooth, impressive!) pedal on my late model Skutt has a small potentiometer in it; the actual electric part is rather tiny, especially in contrast to the housing. No idea how your antique-ish motor is controlled, hence, no idea if this could help at all ...Skutt's current line up has the standard or "SSX" control board (both by Minarik), big motor, heavy foot pedal, tiny potentiometer within. Shout if you're not finding source of this pic, are interested in Minarik documentation, would like spec on that potentiometer (it's just a few screws to get to it - I hadn't noted any specs on that part...).

Handy folks up thar ^! Tinkerin', design, fabrication, repair, maintenance, building, allat runs in the family, somewhat. Our folks provided examples and supported our curiosity as well. Pop should have known not to bother assembling our new bikes for xmas (oh dear, that was 'bout '65 or so); first, err, second thing I did was tear it down to to axles and crank, clean all, then re-assemble with proper (pasty white lithium may be ok for you pal) lubrications, tensions, torque, and all, ahem. The cables and their housings were all wrong, the wheels weren't true, and the brake blocks were backward. When breakdowns occur, typically looking to effect repairs - even if "it ain' worth it" - mostly ...at least determine causation. Where an improvement can be made, so much the better. Still, there are those cases where we don't have proper tools and/or inclination (e.g. our new "hot tub" ...err, septic tank and leach field). Some work gets farmed out, likely that's true for just about everyone.

Aye that! All symptoms disappear when you center up some clay on the bare wheel head - no bats (careful the pins don't catch your hands there...)?

Hot and cold, large laundry/utility sink is next door to the studio, hence water in the studio is by bucket. Settled throwing water is separated - slop to slop bucket, clear water back to throwing bucket. Settled cleanup water is separated - slop to landscape watering, clear water back to cleanup. When either get all nasty, when a fresh load of water is in order - to the landscape! Since installing 133 gallon tank to capture RO "waste" water and whole house gac backwash, I'm getting throwing and cleanup water from there (using RO water for glazes). Full five gallon buckets are heavier these days - about half full is enough.

Hope you feel better soon Denice!

Yep! Two family members have birthdays, one xmas eve, t'other xmas - they get ceramics, again! ...and my entry to the family gift exchange is ceramics, again! Donations to local charity fundraiser, local developmentally disabled workcenter, ceramics this year. Bike shop that supports our bike team got some mugs.

Aye that! ...thinking short and stout ear/handle that faces up and a bit in, cylinder four inches or so tall, small enough around to fit in 300g cups, will experiment with drainhole sizes and patterns

Hulk borrow tea steeper id

Unloaded glaze load #4 yesterday; overall, pleased I am. Only two crazed, over a new clay - everything else, clays and glazes (except new green, Rutile Green, from Bill Van Gilder's book), had been done afore, hence better chance - four pieces got bits of clay stuck on from blown up cone pack (ah was in a hurry there, oops). Speaking of oops, forgot to put in alla test tiles, hence first report on lower expansion clear will be next time; it does look very good on the one red clay piece, (thanks Min!), nice gloss, lays flat, and cleared bubbles well. Aforementioned Wollastonite Clear liner on all (but one) red clay pieces; some of the buff clay pieces have Kitten's Clear, which behaves well on the buff, but not the red - microbubble-icious. The colors are Lakeside Clear Blue (Lakeside Pottery); Variagated, Rutile Green and Teal Blue (Bill Van Gilder's book); and matte white (Aardvark Clay). Have a nice holiday e'body!

Good question! It's early days (as a "serious" hobby potter) for me; mainly, I make just a few things, 300, 400, 500 gram mugs and bowls, mostly, and some lidded jars as well, plus occasional side trips into fountains, platters, vases, shot glasses. The three main forms are evolving, in terms of proportion and features, so I'm testing, trying, testing. I also am interested in repeat work, which is getting better; when I can consistently repeat the moves, I'll fix a pointer at the wheel. I've a fairly set idea what the next few loads (seven cubic feet o' kiln space) will be in terms of what forms, sizes, which clays, glazes - when setting up for a throwing session, just a matter of about how many of what, with an eye to having time to trim and finish. That said, gettin' t'work!

What's the brownish, topside of cup 2nd to last?

First, overall impression, "gestalt" - shape, colours, texture, design; from there, feel, utility. For my own work, still experiencing the Frankenstein effect, where love and awe for the "monster" I've created when it first breathes fades to "what have I done?" It's getting better, however, as more are recognized as such and tossed to the recycle pile before bisque fire. On the other hand - and the reason for the question - have found that some less positive first impressions will fade with familiarity through handling and use. What elicits "I love this" has evolved, and will likely continue to change; I'll try to keep an open mind! I like to see other's work, and as possible, handle as well.

Autodidact, that's a new word for me, thanks! Ah'm believing that my throwing is improving some; mainly it is studying others' work (and my own) and observing others (YouTube, mostly) that guides my focus on what to try, what needs improving, etc. There are very structured approaches to skill building for some disciplines, and some of these very structured approaches actually work well - recall, for those of you who had the experience, the tedium and pain of a full semester of keyboarding (formerly "typing")! If you came out rocking sixty or more words a minute (even thirty, ha), it was worth it, right? ...especially for those who spend/spent years running a keyboard (like me!). Are there many self taught keyboarders rocking sixty wpm? Compare/contrast the teaching of reading (there is current analysis of widespread failure in the teaching of reading, btw), where the better structured approaches ease those who struggle up to full speed ahead, and the poorer structured approaches cripple. ...and that is my point; for those who are a "natural" the approach/method/strategy may not be as important. For those who struggle, a progressive, structured, flexible/varied approach can make all the difference in terms of achieving mastery, overcoming ineffective (bad) habits, etc. This point comes from my experience in the teaching of and training in swimming, from basic skill only through competition at highest levels and all in-a between. I did not see (and still don't see) much really good swimming instruction, and what is good isn't varied - it's good for a fraction of the audience, at best. I'm not expecting to find a throwing mentor, however, will try to keep an open mind! Before returning to school, I worked in the painting trade (having turned my back on teaching). I'd learned to spray airless and conventional; I was very good at it, and don't mind saying so, lol! ...wasn't much of a brush and roll guy though, not until I worked with someone who could really go, AND put me on a program to build the skills. There's a lot to handling paint tools that most of the world has no clue about. So I was a good sprayer, but my mentor helped me become a master, and also a good brush and roll as well. I was lucky, eh? ...same guy set up an intervention which lead to me going back to school for CS, changed my life, thanks Ron. There are good mentors out there... Any road, thanks for the responses!

Nice swirls Min! Are those shelves wafer board? ...just curious; also curious what your bats are made of. May I suggest puttin' these in'ar?

What (in a functional piece) elicits "I love this" for you?

Like your adjustable pointer, also the inverted for drying choice, which slows drying at the vulnerable rim, and exposes the thickest part - da footring - to speed drying there, whilst capturing atmosphere within, to temper/slow the overall rate (haven't watched the vid yet :O )...

Thanks Lady, been putting off new cutting wires - I want some useful length ones, as you described, with rings, and a few framed ones as well.

Still curious what mentor/mentee experiences others have had with regard to throwing? I started at the local JC Ceramic lab, where short demonstration introduces skills required for upcoming assignments, then practice. From there, anyone struggling and/or having questions and/or asking for help would get some one on one or small group. I as (still am) ok with that. I have/am learning by practice, making mistakes, and observing others. Isn't it interesting what we see when observing others - particularly what we didn't see earlier? ...aha! That said, having designed and delivered structured practice for skill development, aaand having received structured instruction in skill development, I believe expert guidance and instruction can be very positive (can be - what works for some does not work well for others, see Bernice McCarthy's 4mat ideas, which blow up sensory learning models...). My guess is most throwers observe, practice, and make mistakes...

Two utensil holders (cylinders), one for throwing tools, the other trimming tools - tools that I actually use - switch places in the wheel's built in tray, right next to the one gallon water bucket; next to the holder are three tools that are used for both activities, needle tool, flexible metal rib, cut piece o' sponge. Right next to the wheel, a small table supports a slop plate (pie plate) that receives bits to be recycled, also a pen, pencil, and a dirty piece of paper to write notes on't'. In front of the wheel, a milk crate supports the other utensil holder, and two polishing/smoothing tools. Most other tools are on tool shelf - spares/duplicates, rarely used tools, glazing tools …in utensil holders, small plastic toolbox. Wire tool (used to have two, hrrmm, have to get another one) sits next to wedge board, mostly, else next to slop plate. Key for me being put the tool in "its place" - and when done for now, cleaned as well. In the machine shop, in the building trades, at the steel mill, in the local JC ceramic studio - have seen, on one hand, folk casting about for a frequently used tool (which may or may not be ready for use), as it/they are put down in different places, depending; on the other hand, folk who snap up the ready tool, as it has "a place!" ...big difference, imo. That said, the extremes of tool organization are demonstrated by beginners through the most experienced and skilled, it seems...

Could you post some pics Denice?

Six years JohnnyK? Gettin' any mold yet? I'm using plastic one gallon size planters - drain holes taped- over pieces to slow drying, two and five gallon buckets over larger pieces; periodic spray of water arrests drying - mold begins to form after a week or so. The weight of plastic sheeting can distort/mar wet pieces - then I'm sad. Plastic sheeting, so many perils! ...wind, falling things, bump - oops, stick to wet clay, drying clay flakes off and blows aroun', etc. I do like the wet box idea, hmmm ...which involves removing from the bat. Other equipment/tools: Commercial grade mop, bucket and wringer Large (Hulk sized) sponges ("grout sponge" and/or large clean up sponge, car washin' sponge, etc.) - sees all sponge work except where small and/or purpose cut piece of sponge is required Credit Bill Van Gilder on purpose cut sponge bits Inexpensive plastic calipers (leave the spendy metal ones in their case, in the drawer) handy for many things! "Standard" gallery/lid sizes (e.g. on the half inch - the only standard unit measurement in my studio!) - Bill Van Gilder on this one as well No guess foot trimming; get rim to inside bottom (millimeters for me), invert, trim - subtract overall from initial to get base thickness. You can tap, feel, just "know" if'n't works for you. Straight edges - an old hacksaw blade is about the right size for me, for most things. If straight, they stay straight (very little sag), light, rounded corners... handy! Rulers - six and fifteen inch stainless, inches and mm Hacksaw blade trimmers and chatterers - grind off the teeth, heat and bend, grind shape and edge(s), voila! A file touches up the edge just fine. Credit Hsin-Chuen Lin on repurposed hacksaw blades Pointer/pin tool ground from an old screwdriver. I like the handle, it's shorter than the pottery tool, it doesn't roll around, and easy to pick up. Light! Repurposed articulated arm desk lamp and clip on utility lights put the light where I need it; overhead two tube eight footer doesn't hurt. Buckets and bins, lots. Each clay has slurry bucket for reclaim, a bin for dried/drying reclaim. There's a settling bucket for wheel and clean up water - use, reuse, reuse reuse… Ditto on shelving, lots! I've built one big heavy shelf along one side, which I've set two large bookshelves on (and pinned to the wall); there's enough room under said shelf to store five gallon buckets. Above that, track shelving; on the other three walls, more track shelving - adjustable, no floor footprint, strong. Quality dust mask - use it! Medium size "French" kitchen whisk fitted with pin for chucking up in the battery powered screw driver - whip that glaze! Medium size straight scraper for corners of glaze buckets, where that ^ whisk doesn't quite reach, corner and edges broken just enough such that glaze bucket isn't scratched. Tile grout mixer chucks up in half inch power drill, makes reclaim almost fun (open doors and windows to vent the ozone) - don't be huffin' ozone! Oooh, there's prolly more, but I'd have to go look. :O