Mark C.

Shop is two kinds-main glaze room and clay wegding area and sink size of room 11x22 measurement of room , is  2x 12  inch wide redwood plank I installed the 1st month I bought my property June 1073. The throwing room is 3/4 tongue and groove floor  plywood painted with special foor paint (now worn thry in spots) this was a add on about 20-25 years ago-and there is a 66 foot wide opening between (no doors). I like wood on the feet. The kiln area out side is a new cement slab as well as medium crushed rock mix.all under large metal roof area-hoods chemicals clay 3 gas kilns and 2 peter puggers and an electric kiln with a 8 foot  wide gate to road-enclosed on three sides.

You have alot of potters in southern Or who could help you. Thier was a southern Oregon potters guild as well and was very active at one time

You have alot of potters in southern Or who could help you. Thier was a southern Oregon potters guild as well and was very active at one time

I have an 10 cubic skutt electric-I fire it rarely now at best -once in 2023 so far, only for overflow bisque.It's a cone setter kiln with an automate turn up control. No computer
I have a 35 cubic gas car kiln I made long ago and its my workhorse. Bisque and glaze in it . soft cone 11 reduction-soft brick inside hard brick outside
I have a 12 cubic updraft fired to soft cone 11 reduction--soft brick (Berman brand) usually same time as the car kiln -at least in the last few years always a simi fire going on with both kilns
Just last month I got a new to me gas 18 cubic Geil downdraft  gas softbrick kiln, and have done two glaze fires and two bisques in it. I just ordered 20 14x28 Bailey advancer shelfs that should be coming  just after my 5 weeks here in Bali diving  ends .I fired it to soft cone 11 reduction. This kiln has a very  basic DD controller which can turn off at a set temp or hold a set temp. 
My plan is to use this kiln more and more in my future as it super cost affective and a joy to fire.How it will fit into the mix is an unknown. best laid plans and all.
I also have a homemade 24 cubic salt kiln-gas fires to cone 10 out in the side field . its a new age hard /soft and fiber combo fired 10 time so far.

oil burns out in clay and works fine. I do not like working with oily clay so I never do that myself  but do use spray vegetable oil a lot for release on glass forms for flat stuff and the oil burns off on those forms just fine

I would make the lip a bit less sharp as well , Mins suggestion also is good, I think a trim foot / glaze drip catch is also needed. Come 10 work can and will run glaze wise especially when using glaze combos. I have another professional pottery friend that uses the same clay and fires to soft 10 less runs . Thicker lips will help with the sharp edges.

One thing of note is how important your foot can be to your work. I feell it gtakes time to develop ones own foot style . I mentored a person in Canada for a long period of time (over a year) with her finding her foot-that is the one that fits her work. It hard to develop ones own style of feet -it comes over time. The temp you fire at and the forms you make all fit into this thought process. My feet are ones I developed in the 70s and have refines slowly since then. My 70s feet are similar to my 2023 feet. I have my own style and each potter need to find theirs.
Its a very important feature of the pot

On plates its got to not chip, same with bowls-no sharp edges. It need to hold the pot off the table and catch glaze if thats in your temp range. It needs to last a lifetime of use without chips.
It take lots of work to get this one figured out and at the same time make it yours.. I always say at least 5 years and thousands of pots. I look back on my earliest work and it substandard foot wise and it was low fire in high school. The glaze did not run but the foot was an after thought not part of the whole work.

On plates its got to not chip, same with bowls-no sharp edges. It need to hold the pot off the table and catch glaze if thats in your temp range. It needs to last a lifetime of use without chips.
It take lots of work to get this one figured out and at the same time make it yours.. I always say at least 5 years and thousands of pots. I look back on my earliest work and it substandard foot wise and it was low fire in high school. The glaze did not run but the foot was an after thought not part of the whole work.

My foot is a glaze catcher-its a no trimmer on most forms but on trimmed forms like bowls its even larger.You can see it on my pots on my photo posts.
for the no trimmers its put in with a wooden tool on the wheel . With my runny rutile glaze it has to be there.

My skutt 10 cubic foot kiln -48 amps wired with copper #6 wire is hooked to a 60 amp breaker-the 125 rule is in effect and youir inspector is not familiar with that for kilns. You can educate them of do the 50 and swap out later if they are hardheaded .

One thing of note is how important your foot can be to your work. I feell it gtakes time to develop ones own foot style . I mentored a person in Canada for a long period of time (over a year) with her finding her foot-that is the one that fits her work. It hard to develop ones own style of feet -it comes over time. The temp you fire at and the forms you make all fit into this thought process. My feet are ones I developed in the 70s and have refines slowly since then. My 70s feet are similar to my 2023 feet. I have my own style and each potter need to find theirs.
Its a very important feature of the pot

My skutt 10 cubic foot kiln -48 amps wired with copper #6 wire is hooked to a 60 amp breaker-the 125 rule is in effect and youir inspector is not familiar with that for kilns. You can educate them of do the 50 and swap out later if they are hardheaded .

really i'm making less but slowing down is a gradual deal

My foot is a glaze catcher-its a no trimmer on most forms but on trimmed forms like bowls its even larger.You can see it on my pots on my photo posts.
for the no trimmers its put in with a wooden tool on the wheel . With my runny rutile glaze it has to be there.

My foot is a glaze catcher-its a no trimmer on most forms but on trimmed forms like bowls its even larger.You can see it on my pots on my photo posts.
for the no trimmers its put in with a wooden tool on the wheel . With my runny rutile glaze it has to be there.

I think they will be fine. Just keep them away from damper openings unless its closed the whole cool down time. My friend used to pull the damber to quik cool and the Botton advancer cracked a few time before they caught on. They are sensitive to small nurds or sharp points (meaning I use a bunch of washed broken shelve pieces to gain height on top of my posts) these are 1/2 -3/4  old school sheve pieces and 1/4 broken advancers pieces. I learned the hard way that they need to be flat and not have any high points. I cracked a few corners off on tall loads in car kiln that holds say 35 shelves spread into 3 stacks of 12x24s.
same with posts keep them flat on top.
By the way I am this winter going to sell some unused ot lightly used unwashed 12x24 advancers -I have 24 of them  I have never iused after buying .I bought from 2 sellers and they are nearly new as they bought them and fired a few times and sold out.I am thinking of 2/3 new price. I may be driving to the spring eclipse as my wife has relatives that moved to your state a few years ago. Just a thought. I really do not want to pack and ship them unless its in small batches .

You will be amazed on the shelves as thay will never warp or hold glaze. You will never have to buy another again.Just do not try to quick cool them as they do not like thermal shock as well.

I would clean out the orfices with a small hand helt drill bit to make sure they are clean

I vacuum electric when I work on it  or it needs it but in last two years I have only fired it once so no need. 
Glaze get seived whenever I make them thru a 80 mesh talisman.
I just mixed 5  gallon buckets last Thursday and seived them into my 30 gallon bucket
I'm in the middle of a huge rutile pitting and ugly period so lots of testing going on now for me. In my 50 years never had so many rutile issues  this past year.

The glaze will not adhere to Baileys or advancer shelves (kiln shelve.com) You just knock off any glaze drips and it does not affect the next pots fired
You should get a total quote from both suppliers which includes trucking /shipping before buying
in terms of washing I am an all porcelain studio and the pots  are fired to soft cone 11  and will pluck on unwashed shelves -meaning the foot will stick in small amounts sometimes. Leaving sharp bottoms .
That means for me I use a Quaility home made wash on the shelves. 50% alumina hydtrate 25% EPK and 25% calcined EPK. I thin this to cream constentancy and roll it on with a paint roller and sun dry it on sun heated shelves .
I ahve about 65 advancers and a few Bailey German shelves-they all act all the same. I have fired them a zillion times. I have broken some as well . You need to keep them dry not stacked on concrete (I use wood under them on concrete) Never blown one up . After washing them I slow bisque them with pots on them in a regular bisque fire.

The glaze will not adhere to Baileys or advancer shelves (kiln shelve.com) You just knock off any glaze drips and it does not affect the next pots fired
You should get a total quote from both suppliers which includes trucking /shipping before buying
in terms of washing I am an all porcelain studio and the pots  are fired to soft cone 11  and will pluck on unwashed shelves -meaning the foot will stick in small amounts sometimes. Leaving sharp bottoms .
That means for me I use a Quaility home made wash on the shelves. 50% alumina hydtrate 25% EPK and 25% calcined EPK. I thin this to cream constentancy and roll it on with a paint roller and sun dry it on sun heated shelves .
I ahve about 65 advancers and a few Bailey German shelves-they all act all the same. I have fired them a zillion times. I have broken some as well . You need to keep them dry not stacked on concrete (I use wood under them on concrete) Never blown one up . After washing them I slow bisque them with pots on them in a regular bisque fire.

Spent a huge part of summer getting ready and moving and now firing a new to me Geil 18 cubic foot downdraft kiln.
It started years ago when I found this kiln for my self and a potter fiend I know said he wanted it so I let him buy it and ship it up from LA. He fired it twice and passed away. I promised his widow to clean out his studio which I did a few years ago and this summer finally made moved the kiln (it weights about 2,700#s)
It require me knocking out some support collums and putting in two 20 foot LVL beams so I could open up my kiln area out under a huge metal roof area. Once the beams where in We moved the small 12 cubic updraft out of the way and I jackhammered out the column supports I poured in 1974. And made large cement pad -about two yards of concrete -I had a pump truck pump it into our space. I added some small wings to the main pour a few days later exposing in more rebar for the kilns to set back from one another more. I had to deconstruct a wall at kiln site in his kiln room and spent 3 days getting kiln out onto a specialized equipment trainer with a pallet jack .The trailer  jacks down flush with ground level to put kiln on and made a solid wood support structure in girl kiln (floor sides and arch support to move it the 15 miles. Here at home it landed on the street for 5 days and  derusted then painted it where it needed it and had a local yard move it with a forklift to my pad where I again used a pallet jack to fine tune it and the other kiln. Of courseI had to move my gas lines before the concrete went in and got two 1 inch line stubbed up from my 2 inch lines underground that run through my kiln area. I had to change out 15 orfices in the Geil (drilled them out with super fine drill buts) as the kiln was propane and now its low pressure natural gas. I tried to fire all three kilns at one a few weeks ago and did not have enough gas to do that but I did fire the Geil and my car kiln two days ago with no issues. I was abal to put both my peter Puggers on this slab as well and now that can move around with ease. The whole area is way more efficient now and I did I had done this 10 years ago. The Geil sips gas but now i must order 14  new 14x28 advancers as the old shelves it came with are just to thick and heavy and warped for my old body. Those shelves will cost as much as I paid for the kiln and will take 3 months to ship here from Germany (thru bailey). I am unloading my second glaze fire today from the Geil and I have bisqued in it twice as well. The auto pilot system has a few bugs but I'm working thru it.

Spent a huge part of summer getting ready and moving and now firing a new to me Geil 18 cubic foot downdraft kiln.
It started years ago when I found this kiln for my self and a potter fiend I know said he wanted it so I let him buy it and ship it up from LA. He fired it twice and passed away. I promised his widow to clean out his studio which I did a few years ago and this summer finally made moved the kiln (it weights about 2,700#s)
It require me knocking out some support collums and putting in two 20 foot LVL beams so I could open up my kiln area out under a huge metal roof area. Once the beams where in We moved the small 12 cubic updraft out of the way and I jackhammered out the column supports I poured in 1974. And made large cement pad -about two yards of concrete -I had a pump truck pump it into our space. I added some small wings to the main pour a few days later exposing in more rebar for the kilns to set back from one another more. I had to deconstruct a wall at kiln site in his kiln room and spent 3 days getting kiln out onto a specialized equipment trainer with a pallet jack .The trailer  jacks down flush with ground level to put kiln on and made a solid wood support structure in girl kiln (floor sides and arch support to move it the 15 miles. Here at home it landed on the street for 5 days and  derusted then painted it where it needed it and had a local yard move it with a forklift to my pad where I again used a pallet jack to fine tune it and the other kiln. Of courseI had to move my gas lines before the concrete went in and got two 1 inch line stubbed up from my 2 inch lines underground that run through my kiln area. I had to change out 15 orfices in the Geil (drilled them out with super fine drill buts) as the kiln was propane and now its low pressure natural gas. I tried to fire all three kilns at one a few weeks ago and did not have enough gas to do that but I did fire the Geil and my car kiln two days ago with no issues. I was abal to put both my peter Puggers on this slab as well and now that can move around with ease. The whole area is way more efficient now and I did I had done this 10 years ago. The Geil sips gas but now i must order 14  new 14x28 advancers as the old shelves it came with are just to thick and heavy and warped for my old body. Those shelves will cost as much as I paid for the kiln and will take 3 months to ship here from Germany (thru bailey). I am unloading my second glaze fire today from the Geil and I have bisqued in it twice as well. The auto pilot system has a few bugs but I'm working thru it.

really i'm making less but slowing down is a gradual deal