Russ

These work very well. And for temporary use  hollow core doors work great, are lightweight and will usually store upright behind studio doors.

These work very well. And for temporary use  hollow core doors work great, are lightweight and will usually store upright behind studio doors.

Previous studio (a one bay garage) had built in work surfaces over cabinets - enough space for a full kiln load plus a space to glaze - a previous owner had repurposed some old cabinetry and used solid core doors for the countertops. The surfaces were smooth and well sealed - easy to clean up.
The height was ok, not ideal, being just a bit low for working while standing, thus a bit high for working from my roll around chair.
We added a raised platform for two book (pottery) shelves, with space underneath for five gallon buckets, repurposing solid core doors we picked up from a construction site (cut in thirds), and several rows of track shelving on the walls as well.
The new studio (also a one bay garage) is a rectangular space with a window and rollup door.
I'm using the workbench we made for a flooring project* and a folding table (Lifetime rectangle). I'm surprised how much I like the folding table! It's smooth, cleans up easy, and can be moved or put away. I plan to add a roll around cart; not sure if I'll do a permanent/fixed countertop this time... ...I did really like the raised shelves with five gallon storage underneath, will very likely do that again.
So, ideal heights/levels, easy to clean, cheap (or already in possession), and modular are factors for me.
Repurposing solid core doors and heavy packing crates has worked well...

*It's an ideal height for operating a chop saw. The table top is from a packing crate.
I'll circle back with a picture.

Well thats a good question.. probably 1 to 3%.  I mix the cmc in a gallon jug with water and let it set a few days. Then add a quart or two to about 4 gallons of glaze when mixing.  In this amount it gives even the most powdery glaze a nice hard coat when dry.

I use cmc gum in all my glaze formulas and I dip and spray. When spraying I add water so it goes thru the sprayer easier.  I didnt know there was a problem with gum and spraying and dipping for that matter.  My philosophy is this... its all just one big experiment and thats how we learn.

I use cmc gum in all my glaze formulas and I dip and spray. When spraying I add water so it goes thru the sprayer easier.  I didnt know there was a problem with gum and spraying and dipping for that matter.  My philosophy is this... its all just one big experiment and thats how we learn.

In reduction the oxygen in the iron oxide is removed leaving the pure form of iron FE.  Ive done heavy reduction on pieces sprayed with straight iron oxide and come up with a silver gray finish.

In reduction the oxygen in the iron oxide is removed leaving the pure form of iron FE.  Ive done heavy reduction on pieces sprayed with straight iron oxide and come up with a silver gray finish.

@HenryBurlingame I own 8  of the 1/3 hp models and 1 of the 1/2hp models. I cannot tell the difference unless I have something really, really, really big on the wheel. I've centered 25 pounds on the 1/3hp models just fine. They can handle anything a Brent CXC can handle because they have a ton of torque despite the lower hp rating.
As for the controllers, there are 5 or 6 different adjustments that can be made in the Skutt controller, such as IR Comp, top speed, low speed and a couple others, so you can dial in the pedal exactly how you want it. If you like IR Comp then you can turn it up. It's there, they just turn it off at the factory. Brent only has top and bottom speed. The Skutt pedal also has a much longer travel, which gives you better control. Skutt parts will be cheaper, although you shouldn't need any parts for either brand for a long, long time. I don't know what changes they made with the new Red line, but they still offer the SSX drive, so it doesn't sound like they changed much.

i am/was in contact with him as of 5/3/2024. He just blocked my email after requesting a refund. i talked with him on messenger and now he is ignoring me there too. i made a post putting him on blast on facebook. i want a refund. And if I don't get it by May 30th I am filing a police report. I have been nice and understanding about his physical health for the last two years. We are being taken advantage of. I also heard he gets really nasty with people. 

Hi and welcome!
Not a silly question at all. The good news is, hot won’t affect materials, but humidity might make a few things like soda ash or dolomite clump. Anything that is prone to this can be dried out on a baking sheet at about 175 F in a kiln or oven if it’s a nuisance. 

That is a perfectly good used wheelhead.  You could clean it up a bit with some steel wool.

karo, hope the wheel is still available for you to buy.   looks are only important to a fashion model.

Oil might help your foot pedal and governor to work smoothly, but not advisable to have it on surfaces that come into contact with your clay. #0000 Steel wool should smooth out the wheelhead surface. Lubricate with a little water while rubbing out irregularities, rinse well.

That is a perfectly good used wheelhead.  You could clean it up a bit with some steel wool.

That is a perfectly good used wheelhead.  You could clean it up a bit with some steel wool.

what are you referring to when you say "handle"?

That is a perfectly good used wheelhead.  You could clean it up a bit with some steel wool.

That is a perfectly good used wheelhead.  You could clean it up a bit with some steel wool.

Good job! Firing a wood kiln is a very grand dance.     Porcelain is quite delicate and wont hold up to that heavy level  of flame impingement like a good grogged stoneware. It seems they were overfired by a few cones!  You might try to use stoneware pieces to act as a bagwall.     The rebar will sag. Even more so if the coals build up and block the inrush of cool air from underneath .    I see you didnt weld them to the tbar so you could just turn them over each firing and get several more out of them.  I pull mine and lay them on a concrete slab and beat them straight with a sledge hammer.
Keep up the good work and let us know about your next firing.

I use rubbermaid trash cans. I first pug my clay and then put a layer of clay then plastic then another layer of clay so forth and so on. Then several layers of plastic film on the top and then the lid. Occasionally I will pour a cup or two of water inside to prevent too rapid of evaporation as we have quite a dry environment here. The trash cans are put on mover dollies for ease of storage.

I use rubbermaid trash cans. I first pug my clay and then put a layer of clay then plastic then another layer of clay so forth and so on. Then several layers of plastic film on the top and then the lid. Occasionally I will pour a cup or two of water inside to prevent too rapid of evaporation as we have quite a dry environment here. The trash cans are put on mover dollies for ease of storage.

What Neil said. Do you have sinks or toilets or tubs or showers that havent been used in a while?

What have you cleaned with this? Your floors? Your walls? I'm thoroughly confused about this. Sounds to me like you have a sewer gas leak. 

We call that color ‘snot red