Pyewackette

You are absolutely right here, wedging is often botched or neglected which makes struggling even worse.
Thanks for putting up that Clinton video. Your video led to Gabriel Nichols throwing long toms.
A very few alive today will know what 1000 pot production looks like.
 
 
 
 

@Hulkyeah these days I am feeling these weird lumps in the clay as it turns under my hands.  At first I thought it had something to do with being wedged by hand but once in awhile I feel it in the pugged clay as well.  Only not as bad or persistent in the pugged clay so maybe it is something to do with having been hand wedged.  I can't remember ever noticing lumps like that before.
Clinton Pottery seems to have made just the one video which seems odd given I'm pretty sure he was talking about having just bought a stand for his camera so he could record.  And the British guy was a hoot - I guess those are old videos recorded from British TV?  I swear he dresses like a medieval craftsman including beard LOL!  Mostly I've been watching that Korean guy you sent me.  Sometimes I can't actually tell which hand he's treating as dominant - maybe he's a switch hitter like me or maybe I just am not very observant LOL!  That looks so uncomfortable, he started out on his knees. I just kept thinking OUCH. But he's fun to watch.  I love throwing off the hump but I have yet to get the back the knack of cutting it off. 
Best I stick to the cylinders.  Taking a class always kind of messes me up in a way because you end up so focused on making stuff, instead of breaking stuff until you get it right. Ya gotta have stuff to glaze, no matter how lumpy, or the instructor is never happy.
I've mostly been watching Florian Gadsby videos, and some of the Potter's Roundtable stuff.  Jon Brit is up to 30 videos in his glazing series. Hsin Chien Lin has over 500 videos posted over the years, I can remember when he first started posting. I'm never going to catch up with 'em all.
Oh and if anybody is interested, Florian Gadsby has written a book called "From My Hands" (I think).  Its not out until September though.
Hope your move is going well.  I'm dreading ours.

Likely the surface will need to be fairly flat and smooth to get a good image on the bisque-ware to start. I’ve tried one commercial underglaze inkpad that I wasn’t that impressed with. The stamp image is fairly detailed. Perhaps making an underglaze formula myself that would adhere to the rubber stamp better and act more like an ink (and perhaps could be used more than once with a sealed stamp pad)? Ideas?

Polish potters often make their own with sponge / sponge rubber. https://youtu.be/BIrUcj3TC6Y. This may interest you, lots more videos out there. Some show hand making the stamps.
 

Another option would be to silkscreen your designs with underglaze onto newsprint/rice paper/gelli plate and apply it that way. You can control the density of the pigment better that way. 

Feel for the clay, precise economy of movement, as they improve with effective practice, so will the clock.
When looking for a clockwise direction video clip that I liked, watched some of the clips I used to watch over and over, like these:
Clinton Pottery didn't post many video clips (maybe two?), lot to see here
Mug throwing, advanced production techniques, Clinton Pottery - YouTube
I like his book as well
Michael Casson - The Craft of the Potter - Throwing (extract) - YouTube
When some time has passed, I'm still seeing others' throwing differently; the clips are still the same, but I am not.
What Clinton Pottery says about clay conditioning - I believe, more and more as time goes by, it being my experience - I'd forgotten, that video clip is where I first heard what a difference the uniformity/homogeneity of the clay makes.

Interestingly enough, the hand positioning you describe is almost identical to the way I do it, but my wheel turns counterclockwise. I open differently though. I have a relative who thinks I should have been left handed too, but I don’t remember anyone trying to make me switch. Lots of neurodiverse folks can be fully or partially ambidextrous and/or have poor proprioreception (perception of your body in space). It runs in my family, so we have some sense of how to navigate that.
I’m going to keep my descriptions to inside hand and outside hand in the sense you’ve already described, because I think that’s a good method. My outside hand is my dominant hand (right), and my inside is my left hand. People can fill in what applies to them. 
I use a 3 middle finger method to open. I use my left/inside hand anchored into my left hip to centre, same as you. My inside hand is set against the wheelhead, or just a hair above, to centre. The outside hand  is braced on top of the inside doing that karate chop pose to create the flat spot, as in the most recently posted video. Keeping the inside hand in place, I then use the middle finger of my outside hand to run slowly from the outside edge inwards until I find the exact middle spot.  It’s quite noticeable, and taking an extra breath to find it lets you open in the right place.  I then stack my pointer and ring fingers on top of that middle finger and press down to create that v shape, staying well braced the whole time. If needed, you can switch your braced elbow to your outside hand side, and use your inside hand fingers to add more downward pressure. To scale this move to larger amounts of clay (>5lbs) you can use the side of your fist instead of fingertips, but the bracing stays the same.  
To create the flat base, rather than pulling to the side like with the 1 or 2 thumb methods, lock your joints on all 3 fingers and pull that well braced outside hand straight towards yourself at the 6 o’clock position. If necessary, steady that wrist with the inside hand by grasping it from above. The person who taught me to do this had some background in kinesiology, and said that this was a more joint friendly method, and incorporates body weight movements rather than brute strength. 
-That same person advised keeping your hands in contact with each other on the clay, unless physically not possible. It offers a lot more support and stability. Play with what works.
Other thoughts about getting a cylinder vs a bowl:
-make sure you start your pull only after you’ve allowed a full revolution of the wheel with your fingers at the base. Make sure you’ve made a full donut to pull up, not a spiral. When you get to the top of the cylinder, allow at least a full revolution before you take your fingers away.
-the direction your form moves in will be in the direction the last point of contact pushed it towards. If you want your piece’s rim to move inwards, stagger your finger position slightly. When pulling, place the fingertips of your outside hand just below the fingertips of your inside hand so your outside hand can push in to correct any hint of flaring caused by your inside hand.  That should get you your volcano. If you want the piece to flare on purpose, inside fingertips should be at or below outside fingertips, mostly just supporting it so things don’t happen too fast.
 
 
 

A decade ago I carved a half dozen stamps with my initials in leather hard clay. Smooth, fine grained clay. After bisque I tested them and kept the best one. Still using it. 

You show that you have control of the basic concepts, and the wall evenness is impressive. If you start to use a little less water on the last pull you will find you can get a little more height without a whole lot of work. Posting a video would be helpful for further assistance in the throwing process,
 
best,
Pres

First cylinder of the day (yesterday)

From the top

Cut in half

Bottom was left thick on purpose - I like to trim foot rings.  But the walls were thicker than I was aiming for.  Also it flopped open like that when I cut it - they pretty much all did.  It wasn't flared like that before I cut it.
Second cylinder after cutting:

I intentionally aimed for a thinner bottom but that was thinner than I meant it to be, plus the island humping up in the middle is not my idea of perfection either LOL!  It is a lot taller than the first one, YAY. Walls are too thick especially towards the bottom so I tried again with cylinder 3:

I feel like I made progress getting the wall even and the bottom a little thinner than I usually like to throw but probably not thick enough to trim for the taller foot rings I prefer.  I like to be able to hold on to 'em while I'm a dippin' of the cup.  It's a couple inches shorter than #2 (I'm guessing that was around 6" tall) but the base is broader than it was on #2.
Given that up until a few days ago all my cylinders flared out at the top like upside down volcanos (Cylinder? We LAUGH at your cylinder!  We are BOWLS!) I think I've made a big improvement. If you bigify the picture you can sorta see one of my lopsided off-center vases in the background from last week.  Told ya they look funny when they get off center LOL!
Obviously there is room for more improvement but hope lives yet in my heart.
I'm working on trying to get the base smaller, but I think I have to use less clay to start with.  The instructor's advice is to use 3 lbs, and cut the top off.  But if I throw with that much clay I end up with a wide base, or else I have a tall blob to turn into a donut.  That doesn't seem to work out so well.  
@Hulk I'm not really right handed for "most things".  Just the most common things like writing and using a knife. And hand sewing, come to think of it. Pretty much had those drilled into me by other people. But most anything I've been left to my own devices, especially darts which I took up in my late 20s, I use my left hand by preference. I still, after all this time, occasionally pick up a pencil with my left hand and start writing.  I switch because the left hand doesn't write as well as the right (given I've had 55 years more of right handed practice LOL!)
And now here is a picture of something that I feel turned out fairly well other than lack of planning.  I should have etched the lines in BEFORE I chattered, like Hsin Chuen Lin - I want to grow up to be like him! The thick line was supposed to be 2 thin lines but the 2nd line got caught on the chattering and jumped the tracks so I had to hand carve it into one big line.  You can see where the top line also jumped the tracks.  I left it.  But I think my chattering is coming along!  See the nice little line  around the foot rim?  For catchin' drippy glaze, I hope.

PYE! Those are some extremely respectable starting cylinders! Don’t worry about the fact that they flopped when you cut them in half, they all do that. You’re showing a nice even cross section and there’s no extra weight in the corners. Height and evenness will come with practice. This is the point we tell you to go make a really obnoxious number more of them. If you’re making 3 in a session right now, aim for 10 next time. (I said AIM.) When you get to 10, aim for 20. If you get bored, add handles and call them mugs. 
3 lbs is a common starting point for everyone’s first-ever throwing class hockey pucks. Starting too small can present issues because we all cut off tops, tear some away, and mush things.  Also, trying to centre a too small amount can be as difficult to do as trying to centre too much at first. If you have more confidence about centring and aren’t discarding half the clay you started with, you can definitely drop down to 1 or 2 lbs. 
 
 

Great idea @oldlady I find the drying aspect of drywall keeps me working faster!!!! Some days I revert to my canvas board , under the pump with drywall.
S0, @Pyewackette, get a square of drywall and take it to class. Slap a slab of your wet clay onto it, turn and slap afew times , go sort yourself for a throwing session , quick wedge and you'll extend the lower jaw muscles of new lad.
Consolation: he doesn't know it is only a matter of time, ...the last refuge of the aged!

I used this seller because she’s in my province, but she ships to the US. If you want to use someone closer to home for you, there were lots of custom stamp makers. I just went to etsy and used 3d printed stamp as my search terms. Lots of folks making custom cookie cutters/polymer clay stamps/pottery stamps  in all kinds of materials, including brass. 

First cylinder of the day (yesterday)

From the top

Cut in half

Bottom was left thick on purpose - I like to trim foot rings.  But the walls were thicker than I was aiming for.  Also it flopped open like that when I cut it - they pretty much all did.  It wasn't flared like that before I cut it.
Second cylinder after cutting:

I intentionally aimed for a thinner bottom but that was thinner than I meant it to be, plus the island humping up in the middle is not my idea of perfection either LOL!  It is a lot taller than the first one, YAY. Walls are too thick especially towards the bottom so I tried again with cylinder 3:

I feel like I made progress getting the wall even and the bottom a little thinner than I usually like to throw but probably not thick enough to trim for the taller foot rings I prefer.  I like to be able to hold on to 'em while I'm a dippin' of the cup.  It's a couple inches shorter than #2 (I'm guessing that was around 6" tall) but the base is broader than it was on #2.
Given that up until a few days ago all my cylinders flared out at the top like upside down volcanos (Cylinder? We LAUGH at your cylinder!  We are BOWLS!) I think I've made a big improvement. If you bigify the picture you can sorta see one of my lopsided off-center vases in the background from last week.  Told ya they look funny when they get off center LOL!
Obviously there is room for more improvement but hope lives yet in my heart.
I'm working on trying to get the base smaller, but I think I have to use less clay to start with.  The instructor's advice is to use 3 lbs, and cut the top off.  But if I throw with that much clay I end up with a wide base, or else I have a tall blob to turn into a donut.  That doesn't seem to work out so well.  
@Hulk I'm not really right handed for "most things".  Just the most common things like writing and using a knife. And hand sewing, come to think of it. Pretty much had those drilled into me by other people. But most anything I've been left to my own devices, especially darts which I took up in my late 20s, I use my left hand by preference. I still, after all this time, occasionally pick up a pencil with my left hand and start writing.  I switch because the left hand doesn't write as well as the right (given I've had 55 years more of right handed practice LOL!)
And now here is a picture of something that I feel turned out fairly well other than lack of planning.  I should have etched the lines in BEFORE I chattered, like Hsin Chuen Lin - I want to grow up to be like him! The thick line was supposed to be 2 thin lines but the 2nd line got caught on the chattering and jumped the tracks so I had to hand carve it into one big line.  You can see where the top line also jumped the tracks.  I left it.  But I think my chattering is coming along!  See the nice little line  around the foot rim?  For catchin' drippy glaze, I hope.

I'm mostly right handed*.
I throw clockwise, period**.
I'd tried centering and coning with main pressure on the "away" side (left hand), am sticking with the "toward" side, right hand.
The clay is moving into the force hand, seems easier to control, more effective - for me.
Looks like the more popular approach, from what I've seen.
...am not recalling seeing a thrower work on the toward side for pulling.
I work with the right hand inside, left hand outside, on the away side, seven to nine o'clock or so.
Have learned much watching this one over the last few years (a clockwise example):
Tokoname Master Craftsman - Hokujo (Genji Shimizu)　伝統工芸士　清水源二 - YouTube
Most often, my opening move is both thumbs, where the right thumb tip covers the bottom half of the left thumbnail.
The right thumb does touch and spread the opening, but the left thumb is at the point.
Both thumbnails are protected - the nails wear away too fast and don't grow back fast enough to be of much use, hence, each throwing move/grip involves protecting the nails...

*right eyed, throw right, kick right, bow/slingshot/pistol/rifle all right, bowl right, bat right.
However, I skateboard/surfboard right foot forward, pull wrenches for torque left (and most other "power" things left), and breathe left (swimming).
 
**no contest, it's correct for me.
Perhaps due to minor nerve damage, both hands; the way my eyes work; the slight twist of my torso due to years of breathing left (swimming); idk, I really don't.
I've tried counterclockwise, it's ok, but I prefer clockwise, by a long chalk.

I got pictures!  But they're messed up and I hit submit too soon. I'll fix and post when I get back later this afternoon.
 

Do you want the metal for the feel of the tool, or would you be happy with something 3D printed? I got a set of letter stamps from an Etsy seller in the font of my choosing, and I think she did other images too.

ITS A MIRACLE!  I went in this past Monday and the new clay was suddenly firmer than its been in over a year.  I couldn't believe it.  I asked about it and yes, I wasn't imagining it, this latest batch was firmer on purpose.  I'm told the hand builders like it soft and smooshy (I certainly don't when I'm hand building so I guess I'm the weirdo yet again).  I have been trying to make hay while the sun shines, because the next batch might be soft and smooshy again.  Apparently hand builders rate over wheel throwers LOL!  It was soooo much better to throw with, and I didn't have to wedge it at all!
My cell phone camera stand is supposed to be here today or tomorrow so I can take pictures of myself mangling cylinders and what not.  I've been trying to emulate Florian Gadsby and his technique of pulling walls up into a cone - so far I have not succeeded in pulling it inward like that, but at least they are now going up more or less straight LOL! Before my hands just kept trying to turn everything into a bowl right off the bat.  I have hope that I will eventually go from merely avoiding pulling the walls OUT to actually being able to guide them inward with that first pull like he does.  Its already helping to overcome my auto-bowl handicap. 
I struggle still with getting the body off center of the base.  I can feel it now when it happens but I still can't necessarily fix it.  I managed to fix or avoid doing that for one whole day - then the next day, back to knocking the body off center of the base again.  It makes for some very funny looking vases LOL!
I can feel when things go wrong now.  I can't always tell HOW it goes wrong, but I can feel it once its gone wrong and I can mostly identify the type of wrongness.  I think I've got enough stuff for practice glazing (depending on whether or not anything blows up in the kiln) - so I'll be going back to just pulling cylinders until they collapse.  At the moment I am no good at pulling up thin walls.  My hands/fingers move up the wall and it pulls up a little bit but I still end up with thick walls by the time the clay has been overworked.  But I keep on trying!

@Pyewackette, is it possible you are not centering in the bottom outside of your clay when centering, leaving a small area where the clay causes your hand to rise unevenly on your centering and pulling. Use and upside down thumbnail to scrape the clay on the wheel head into the clay you are centering? I center with a slight cup to my hands at the base opposite the thumb, this forces the clay to move into the ball being centered.
Hope you can understand my description.
 
best,
Pres

I've seen markers carved from wood and other materials, modeled in clay, and cast in metals - curious to read what other Forum contributors do...
I use a small stylus (ball point pen) to mark my Studio initials (TC) within the foot ring. The edges of the mark I leave rough, for the edges are easy to clean up after bisque fire.
Almost always I fill the mark with a colored glaze or underglaze, wiping with a damp sponge to leave just the mark highlighted.
Unfilled mark, clear glaze over

 
Filled with blue glaze, liner glaze over

 
Filled with blue glaze; here the zircopax is clearly visible in my "clear" liner glaze over this red clay. 

 
I like how this red glaze sometimes picks up blue flecks.

 
I like how these soap dishes came out.

Those last two, sigh, am missing the clay, took some time off to heal up after a fall, then we sold our house and moved, so enjoyed paging through images of my old works!
Looking forward to getting back into it!

ITS A MIRACLE!  I went in this past Monday and the new clay was suddenly firmer than its been in over a year.  I couldn't believe it.  I asked about it and yes, I wasn't imagining it, this latest batch was firmer on purpose.  I'm told the hand builders like it soft and smooshy (I certainly don't when I'm hand building so I guess I'm the weirdo yet again).  I have been trying to make hay while the sun shines, because the next batch might be soft and smooshy again.  Apparently hand builders rate over wheel throwers LOL!  It was soooo much better to throw with, and I didn't have to wedge it at all!
My cell phone camera stand is supposed to be here today or tomorrow so I can take pictures of myself mangling cylinders and what not.  I've been trying to emulate Florian Gadsby and his technique of pulling walls up into a cone - so far I have not succeeded in pulling it inward like that, but at least they are now going up more or less straight LOL! Before my hands just kept trying to turn everything into a bowl right off the bat.  I have hope that I will eventually go from merely avoiding pulling the walls OUT to actually being able to guide them inward with that first pull like he does.  Its already helping to overcome my auto-bowl handicap. 
I struggle still with getting the body off center of the base.  I can feel it now when it happens but I still can't necessarily fix it.  I managed to fix or avoid doing that for one whole day - then the next day, back to knocking the body off center of the base again.  It makes for some very funny looking vases LOL!
I can feel when things go wrong now.  I can't always tell HOW it goes wrong, but I can feel it once its gone wrong and I can mostly identify the type of wrongness.  I think I've got enough stuff for practice glazing (depending on whether or not anything blows up in the kiln) - so I'll be going back to just pulling cylinders until they collapse.  At the moment I am no good at pulling up thin walls.  My hands/fingers move up the wall and it pulls up a little bit but I still end up with thick walls by the time the clay has been overworked.  But I keep on trying!

I was remembering my tire tread sandals, u of o sixties student
Huaraches and fancy these days. Old ones had a curve to sole, straight off the old truck tyre mate.
@Min  just went with the flow, keep on truckin etc etc.
Cheaper to live also. Bikes a mode of transport, not an investment.

It means Babs was a hippy!  
It's one of these things.

Time to don that skirt/cutoff levis , bandana a nd habachis and go plead!

Damp cupboards and fabrics perhaps?