Babs
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Posts posted by Babs
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2 hours ago, grackle said:
thank you, Neil, this makes a great deal of sense, and since i only glaze fired these two as a test, i will experiment further with your suggestions. I am using the amaco underglazes and the coyote underglazes. i have some nice thin paper clay test pieces that have not been bisque fired, and will do some experimenting with those. perfect!!
If the pieces you are going to try on are absolutely dry, the u.g. may not adhere to it, may look ok after bisque, then bloat off when glaze fired.
This may not be the case with paperclay. I suggest spraying the pieces with water, then applying the u.g.
@neilestrick would know about this.
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On 5/19/2024 at 4:29 AM, grendel said:
I recently read that an artist fired underglaze twice to 'make it permanent'. Isn't underglaze permanent anyway? Confused.
The word permanent may be a misuse of that word.
The only reason I can see for firing underglaze prior to glazing, or applying more underglaze is so it isnt smudged by the potter in handling the piece incorrectly, or applying glaze. Not sure if the word sinter is the right one but , this sinters the underglaze and will avoid smudging unless the underglaze is applied really thickly, some of the dark colours may still smudge, I have found.
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What temp did you open it?
Dull or matt instead of gloss?
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4 hours ago, Kelly in AK said:
It is coincidence that @davidh4976 mentioned a clay body so high in iron that a magnet will stick to it and I received in the mail today the strongest magnets I’ve ever seen. So, of course I had to play.
My clay is a local iron rich earthenware that vitrifies at cone 03. Not all the
pots do this, apparently only the ones that are reduced heavily and fired to maturity.
Well, can you show the interior? Looks like a Min glazing technique.:-)))
- Rae Reich and Kelly in AK
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Seems there are many
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On 5/7/2024 at 6:48 AM, chloemmetcalf said:
I just saw on IG. a Japanese potter opening a pottery kiln of this shape slbeit it was a ceramic fibre gas kiln so MAYBE some one made kilns of this shape at some point.
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5 hours ago, Mark C. said:
Photo did not shop up
In first post of the topic, Mark. Looks like been used for pottery re surface of bottom shelf... bisque kiln?
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34 minutes ago, neilestrick said:
You have to use 4 posts under the full shelf so they line up with the half shelf posts. This is the problem. With 4 posts there's a good chance the shelf will rock, leaving one post not making contact and putting a lot of stress on the shelf there, resulting in cracking or warping. I really don't understand using a full shelf on the bottom and the rest half, but it's the way many people think it should be done. There's no benefit to having a full shelf on the bottom.
Or prhaps you would put stilts at the points where the half shelves stilts are to sit above this level but may cause more problems later...
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18 hours ago, neilestrick said:
Yes, you just have to make sure they're sitting evenly. A waster slab across the joint is also helpful.
How are you stilting the full bottom ahelf given the half shelves will need different positioning?
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4 hours ago, neilestrick said:
I prefer half shelves. More flexibility, easier loading, and half shelves tend to last longer. Posting gets awkward when using both full and half, because you end up having to use 4 posts on a full shelf and they don't always sit evenly, which puts a lot of stress on them.
Do you sit platters across half shelves with success, asking as I get older and older and full shelves heavier and heavier..
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You can get small digital pyrometers, hand held devices, not very expensive in the scheme of things.
I would install a timer set at about 1/2 hr post target cone drop. This is a backup, essentialimo, inxase the sitter bar doesn't drop for some reason. Long time potters, eg @Pres can guage the temp according to colour if kiln interior but until colour shows you're in the dark. :-))
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Search Joseph Fireborn on these forums , Gallery and elsewhere, he posted some great pots using an electric kiln as have many, many others. I suggest getting to know a potter who uses gas and spend time in their studio.
John Britt has extensive material online showing and teaching the effects possible in an electric kiln at C6
Still missing my gas kiln here after many years though....
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Cone 06 glaze for your clay will mean it will be quite porous ware. Can you get a majolica glaze recipe maturing at C 1?
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On 4/20/2024 at 1:28 AM, High Bridge Pottery said:
It's my zero3 fritware clay, kiln is just a 40 litre rust bucket.
I would go with the cone program as it may dynamically alter the firing depending on how it keeps up with the rate of climb. Do skutt controllers do that?
Ah I remember you posting abiut that process.
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That is a pretty low bisque...250°c/hr ìs very aggressive, what type of kiln is it? What clay body? I thought cone017 was for enamel work..
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Not knowing the clay you use, or the kiln, here's my bisque in °C.
And, Callie the expert, so listen to her.
If bisqueware dry and of good thickness i.e not thick sculpted pieces
50°C / hr to 100°C
100°C/hr to 600°C
150°C/hr to 1000°C
Soak for 10 minutes.
Target is C06.
I pack bottom shelf with taller stuff, rest of kiln is tumble packed. Soak at end for me is to allow kiln temp to even out and tumble stacked ware to get to the cone target.
Seems brutal but works
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Ammonia can give a " urine" smell.
Vetter friend up with those in the neighvourhood to see if others affected and over what area. WonderIng what was on this site before "developed".
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Cobalt being v expensive I wonder if your glaze could handle less. 2% seems a high amount of cobalt oxide.
- Pres, Beccap, Magnolia Mud Research and 1 other
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23 minutes ago, Beccap said:
I started making a new glaze using a Stephen Murfitt satin matt base recipe that contains 3% zinc oxide. I understand zinc oxide is not the problem but that it may contain traces of lead? But not in levels I should be concerned about? That’s at least the conclusion I’ve come to but please correct me.
The glaze makes a lovely deep green, but it contains 1% chrome, 2% cobalt, 1% RIO and now I’m worried that it is not food safe? I haven’t experienced any leaching.
I’ve read the type of chrome potters use is not toxic and should be ok? But in the presence of zinc is it still ok? And also is 2% cobalt safe?
feeling lost and very confused …..
Covalt oxide or cobalt csrbonate?
Photo of glaze and recipe will help folk answer.
I would not use chrome on inside of functional ware. Lots of folk use liner glazes because of ingredients.
Havent heard of folk worrying about Zinc Oxide.
Wearing gloves and proper mask would protect you when mixing glazes and applying glazes.
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1 hour ago, Edda said:
Thank you Bill, that's very helpful.
250°C way too fast!
I'd go 150°c / hr to about 80° below shut down then slow down to 80° C / hr to target temp.
The lower target and soak at end you write about is prob more economic fuel wise and kinder on your kiln, some glazes will love it too.
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Lots of glazes can handle not being soaked but like a slower heat increase towards target temp.
Let us know how you get on. Exciting!
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Suggestions for a monkey tail, how to attach?
in Studio Operations and Making Work
Posted · Edited by Babs
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Paper clay would not be as strong imo as the paper burns out in the firing process, don't know if this makes it more brittle, someone will chime in
https://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/27135-working-with-paper-clay-questions/.