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Brent Wheel Controller Problems.


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#1 enbarro

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Posted 14 August 2014 - 04:01 PM

Hi, I have a Brent C made in 2008. Yesterday after about an hour of use the wheel stopped all of a sudden. The pedal needs adjustment from time to time, but not in this case. The controller box started to make clicking sounds and the light would flicker accordingly. When I pressed the pedal it would turn for a short while and then stopped regardless of the light being on or off. I unplugged it from the multiplug powersurge I normally use and then tried a plug with a different breaker without noticing any changes. About 5 hours later. I plugged it again and the on/off switch esa on the whole time, pushing the botton would not make the clicking sound.

Today everything seems to come back to normal.

Any ideas what could be the cause of the malfunction?

thanks,

#2 neilestrick

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Posted 14 August 2014 - 04:12 PM

I'd open everything up and check for loose connections, pedal and control box. Also try pushing on or wiggling the fuse holder and seek if that does anything. I've seen several loose fuses on Brent wheels. Replacing the fuse holder fixes it.

 

Is this the smooth black control box with flat buttons?


Neil Estrick
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#3 enbarro

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Posted 14 August 2014 - 07:43 PM

Thanks! I'm not a tech-abled kind of person. I've opened the footpedal because I saw pics on the manual. I looked around the web for a PDF with the box's diagram, but no luck.

Do you think voltage changes coming in from the grid could make the controller act up?

Sadly it is the flat type of controller... I saw that they went back to the "classic" controller after the flat. Some how this reminds me of Coke! :)

#4 neilestrick

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Posted 14 August 2014 - 07:46 PM

That controller had major issues, and at one point they were replacing them at no cost. They didn't even try to fix them, just sent out new controllers. Call Brent and see if they'll send you a new one.


Neil Estrick
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#5 enbarro

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Posted 18 August 2014 - 01:46 AM

Thanks.

I've turned the wheel on several times since the incident and it seems to be back to normal. This was the only time it has happened. I want to check all the variables before I change the controller.

Anybody knows if voltage drops and/or spikes can cause a controller to act up?

Why does the manual advices against using an extention cord? Is a power surge also to be avoided?


Does upgrading the controller bring any other benefits? For example, is the new controller better at lower speeds or has a more even acceleration? Other than the pedal (which was a pain in the butt to adjust and still needs occasional adjustments) the only other things that bother me are that it has little power at really low speeds for such a big motor and goes from really slow to really fast with a slight pressing of the foot pedal.


Any help will be greatly appreciated.

#6 Mark C.

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Posted 18 August 2014 - 02:26 AM

Thanks.

I've turned the wheel on several times since the incident and it seems to be back to normal. This was the only time it has happened. I want to check all the variables before I change the controller.

Anybody knows if voltage drops and/or spikes can cause a controller to act up?

Yes it can screw things up

Why does the manual advices against using an extention cord? Is a power surge also to be avoided?
they want this run on full amps at plug

Does upgrading the controller bring any other benefits? For example, is the new controller better at lower speeds or has a more even acceleration? Other than the pedal (which was a pain in the butt to adjust and still needs occasional adjustments) the only other things that bother me are that it has little power at really low speeds for such a big motor and goes from really slow to really fast with a slight pressing of the foot pedal.

New controllers just make the wheel work better without many adjustments
Any help will be greatly appreciated.


Mark Cortright
www.liscomhillpottery.com

#7 enbarro

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Posted 18 August 2014 - 08:32 PM

Thanks. I don't have a plug near the wheel. I use a 16awg extention cord. Does it need to be a lower number to get full amps from the plug?



#8 Mark C.

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Posted 18 August 2014 - 10:46 PM

I would have to look up the amp draw as I recall thats a 1/3 horsepower motor?

If your cord is a long one? say 50 feet Yes that would not be good.

When it comes to motors of all types you do not want to starve them of amps.

I would go with a bigger cord and as short as you need.

# 12 is best #14 would work

#16-#18 use for christmas lights or a table lamp or charging a I-phone.

Mark


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#9 enbarro

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 05:54 PM

Thanks. According to amaco's website it has a 3/4 hp 7amp motor.



#10 Mark C.

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 06:33 PM

Looks like 16 is just on the scale

http://www.diybyexam...cord-do-i-need/


Mark Cortright
www.liscomhillpottery.com

#11 enbarro

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 08:26 PM

Thanks Mark for taking the time help me out.



#12 schmism

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 08:53 PM

Check the fuse holder.  Ive serviced several were the ears of the fuse socket have broken off (fatigue/age).  This creates a intermittent power supply issue.   A fuse holder is like $3 at radio shack.

 

If the wheel quits, you can do some basic trouble shooting on it while its non-operating.  Take the control box off,  open it up and check the voltage on into/out of the rectifier. 

 

Its a small metal sq with 4 spade connectors on it.  1 corner is labed with a ~ .  The opposite corner generally has no lable.   the other 2 corners have + and - on them.   The corners with the ~ are AC power in.  the other 2 are DC power out.   

 

Square_Bridge_Rectifier.jpg

 

No AC power indicates a supply issue or control circuit issue.   If no AC you can back up to the AC input (just after fuse).   If you have power after the fuse and no AC input to the rectifier, its likely a control board issue.

 

If you have AC input to the rectifier, and no DC output then the rectifier is acting up.   Generally they dont work indeterminately,  usually if they fail they permanently quit working.



#13 enbarro

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Posted 20 August 2014 - 06:49 PM

Thanks. In the flat controller the fuse holder seems to be glued/soldered to the board. I wasn't able to identify the rectifier. Nothing seems to be loose or out of place.


The other thing I found out is that the wheel uses 10amps according to the label beneath the wheel, but the wheel's motor is 5.8amps and not 7amps.

It seems I'll need to install a new controller...

#14 Mark C.

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Posted 20 August 2014 - 06:57 PM

Disconnect the foot pedal and motor wires from controller (Mark them 1st to replace them) and ship that to Brent /Amaco repair-you may get lucky and they will replace at no or low cost.

Mark


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#15 enbarro

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Posted 21 August 2014 - 09:31 PM

Thanks Mark.

#16 enbarro

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Posted 19 September 2014 - 03:42 AM

Update,


Amaco's customer service is truly great, they went the extra mile.


I installed the new controller almost two weeks ago. My subjective appreciation is that it feels more solid/even and the pedal response is a lot better too. The Tech worked on the pedal so that might have something to do with it. Throwing this past weeks has been a joy.


Thanks to all that helped me.

#17 Mark C.

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Posted 19 September 2014 - 06:33 PM

(Amaco's customer service is truly great, they went the extra mile.)

 

This alone is what Brents are all about

 

Real people who work on these wheels right here on this continent .Not the run around-no support of some lesser brands

Mark


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