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I'd also like to add: either it worked great or it didn't; either there was a problem or there wasn't. Sounds more like she believed the hype v.s there is a design flaw in the kiln; you can't argue with results.

Because what, kiln brick is a better conductor of heat?! Skutt elements sit deeper in their groves where only the very top part of the element is exposed vs L&L that entire top half is exposed not to mention the space above the element is much great in an L&L than a Skutt allowing heat energy a clearer path into the chamber. https://images.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search;_ylt=A0LEVv0RJo1ZACwAnqMnnIlQ?p=L%26L+kiln+holder&fr=yhs-mozilla-004&fr2=piv-web&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-004#id=7&iurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hotkilns.com%2Fsites%2Fdefault%2Ffiles%2Ffeature-holder-950.jpg&action=click If her L&L wasn't getting to cone, I suspect there was another problem elsewhere.

I hear ya brother, I've broken three. They'll still work fine as long as you don't break the wire and just change the outer sheath/tube.

Mine don;t look like that Nerd except for the old beater we were given a long time ago (still always goes to cone) but I've seen SEVERAL Skutts fit that description. I've also seen a lot of old beat up exterior L&Ls that are pristine inside too. Ours will last the rest of our careers but if there is to be another new one, it'll be an L&L. (for a reason). I would like to say I've had excellent customer service from Skutt.

This is absolutely 100% true. Skutt elements put more heat directly into the firing chamber as Skutt elements are usually hanging out of their broken brick grooves drooping down into the kiln and onto the brick and element below it. I own 5 or 6 Skutts and there is no comparison, L&L all the way; especially if we're talking the same money.

IMHO, without even looking (as I've seen stuff like this 1000 times). I'd charge $500 to haul all that crap off.

Most "nitrogen" that is commonly available is just regular compressed air that it's "purity" is a measure of moisture content, not the amount of nitrogen. That "green" stuff they put in you tires now is exactly that; they just finally figured out a way to charge you $29.99 to put air in your tires; it's still only about 60-70% nitrogen. The problem of putting a kiln under a vacuum lies in the material it's made of and the shape thereof. I've considered flooding with argon before but never had a good enough reason to do so. I'd rather run a bead with my gas that fire a pot.

It doesn't use a "screen" in the sense that you think. It has a stainless steel metal disk with holes drilled in it about 3/16" that the clay has to push through; (think meat grinder). I've used both a PP and Bailey (dual auger) in a professional capacity and I prefer a Bailey dual auger machine. Bailey's dual auger design is much better at de-airing as it de-airs AFTER the clay passed through the "screen" holes allowing a more thorough process. The "screen" doesn't need to be clean unless you mulch a bunch of tools and/or bisque that got thrown in by mistake (and it would have to be a lot!) Single auger machines need to be loaded to about 85-90% to get them to work. The dual auger machines can pug a much smaller batch than it's full capacity. You also have to be more careful when adding water to a single auger machine as too much too fast and the batch will just spin. The only thing I don't like about the Bailey is the that the longer barrel holds a lot of "old" clay that needs to be considered when pugging if swapping b/w high and low fire clays. Both are good machines; one is a VW, the other a BMW.

"Vanishing Point" or "Apocalypse Now"... ...the horror....the horror....

Any day now. Some folks just don't know when to quit....but are gonna learn the hard way, sooner or later....looks like sooner....

Funny you would say, I'm done and moving on.

The only thing about single auger puggers like Peter is you have to have it loaded almost full in order to get it to work. A dual auger like a Bailey's will pug almost any small amount you put in it. The single has to have enough clay in it to drag against the barrel walls so it can mix; they are VERY sensitive to how you ad water in them. Too much water too fast and the whole load will just spin inside the barrel. I don't think it' about the epoxy itself as much as it's about the surface it's being stuck too. Maybe you could send it out to be anodized instead? Maybe put a sacrificial zinc annode plate b/w the barrel and drive section? ( I wonder what that would do to the chemistry of the clay though?)

My personal experience has been to the contrary. I've seen them brand new with a warped plastic pulley from just the factory belt tension. (wheel head end) I can't imagine anyone serious, much less a school using one (or more) of those things for full time use as they are not designed for that. They are designed and built within limitations, and perform and last as such. Open one up sometime (Watch out for the ground wire on the bottom plate though.) She likes ours but for demos only.

Then don't buy an Artista. There are several reasons why you shouldn't that I won't go into. They are good for a low-use portable table top demo wheel but nothing even closely engineered for lots of use. The wheel head uses a brass bushing instead of an actual bearing much like bushings in an automotive starter. That isn't something you want to put under a lot of constant use.

No, put Skutt parts in a Skutt and Paragon parts in the garbage and buy a Skutt...