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Eyvind

Using Tile Extruder Machine (Peter Pugger)

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I have recently begun using a medium sized Peter Pugger tile extruder machine, with an accompanying tile cutter table. I have been working to get straight extrusions with usable edges that dry to tiles with straight sides with 90 degree corners. I have had problems with the edges expanding outwards when drying so that I get arcs for edges instead of straight lines. (I am making tiles 9" square, wet-clay size.)

 

I know there are fluid dynamics issues with extruders that need to be compensated for with die design and maybe extrusion speed. Any advice on these or other possible issues would be welcome.

 

In addition, Peter Pugger has recently introduced a "manual tile cutter table." This is a neat concept with some practical issues. Wet clay does not flow across the plywood surface, even when oiled. I have developed a workaround which I will be happy to share if anyone has interest, and would be interested in sharing any other ideas (like the oil I use) if there is some value in doing so.

 

Thanks to all!

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I'm not sure this is something you're going to fix, Eyvind. I'll be interested to see what people have to say. It may help to try a different clay body with less shrinkage/more grog/sand. I have a Peter Pugger and have considered using it from some extruding, but I'd build a tile press if I were going to make a lot of tiles.

 

Presently, I make tiles from slabs. They don't have to be perfectly flat as I only use them for coasters or for wall tiles. To keep them from warping, I dry them between sheets of plaster board (wall board/gypsum board/sheet rock). I wrap the edges of the plaster board with duct tape to keep it from crumbling into my clay. Of course, if your tiles are high relief, this won't work for you, but otherwise you might give it a try. You'll need a weight on top.

Tom Eastburn likes this

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