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jrgpots

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Everything posted by jrgpots

  1. I'm in the process of ordering 2 baso valves, one main shut off valve, and two burner shut off valves. If I were to buy selanoid valves on the main and baso valves, could I use a furnace IFC control board or oil burner control board to manage everything, including a high limit shut off? I have a digital thermcoupler control. I could use that as my high limit shut off. maybe...kind of like the Geil controller... Jed
  2. My daughter does poured acrylics by slowly pouring the different paint colors in a cup, then without mixing them, pours them on the canvis. There are lots of youtube videos of the technique. What if you adapt this to you slip pouring? Here is my idea. 1. Find the total volume needed for your pour. 2. Usee 1/3 that volume as color #1, 1/3 as color #2, and 1/3 color #3. 3. Carefully, add the 3 color slips into a large container, then pour this into the mold. 4. Wait until you get the desired thickness and then pour the slip into a second mold. 5. Don't swirl the slip inside the mold. Just tap it to remove the bubbles. Each time you pour, the colors will get more mixed or muttled. There would be a limit to how many times this could be done until the slip colors would be too mixed. At that point, you would have a new slip color. Jed
  3. From my calculations, at 2# pressure and the current orifice, (drill bit size 52 x 3 holes) the natural gas should produce about 117,000 BTU for each burner. I hope that 2# is sufficient to push the burners. The numbers are right. I hope the burners will work at this pressure. Next step is to test them. Jed
  4. I'm worrying about heat input. . .That's a bit ironic because today's temp is 108 degrees at the kiln before heat from a burner is ever applied to it.. Jed
  5. I would not do an exchanger through the chimney. That is above my DIY level. But, if I could salvage some of the heat from a more passive system, it would improve effeciency. I converted a smaller kiln to gas and struggled to get it to temp. It kept stalling out. So this time around,, 1. I have changed to natural gas.------ I had problems with decreasing vapor pressure from large drop in tank temp from too small of tank. 2. I have 9" walls and better draw from the chimney. I just am afraid of making another dudd. So I overthink it. I was hoping for a 100 degree differential. To do this I may have to stuff the tank full of steel wool to increase surface area and thus heat exchange. So what would you define as "meaningful" heat exchange? Jed
  6. As I was building the kiln, I pushed the chimney away from the back of my kiln by 9 inchs. So I have a 9" gap. I was thinking about making an air manifold in the gap to warm up the primary air. I have a 9 x 24 steel tank that fits between the back kiln wall and the chimney. Air would go into the tank, be heated by the kiln and chimney, then piped to the burners. I am currently planning on using old venturi burners as I have mentioned in a previous thread, but am afraid they won't work. If they don't work out for me, I will get power burners. So I was wondering if this idea to preheat the air would work? Jed
  7. Also the mugs really get hot when placed in the microwave if they are weeping. Jed
  8. I deal with people having clogged orifices all the time. I don't recommend power drills either. Milk of Magnesia or fleets enemas are much more effective......lol Jed
  9. These two burner fired a 60 cubic foot minnesota flat top using propane. I fired them up with propane and they worked great. Then the copper tubing got flattened . So I am repairing them. I have never fired them up using natural gas. I will drill them out for natural gas and find the best pressure they run at. To run the test, I will need to get a low pressure regulator Jed
  10. This is the current burner tip with three 1/16 dia drill holes. It can easily be changed to a single 3/16 drill hole.
  11. These burners are not venture shaped. They are more like stainless steel weed burners. I am in the process of replacing the thermocoupler and copper tubing to the pilot burner. They were bent out of shape. Are they worth my time or should I buy a ward system?
  12. I own venture burners, but was going to buy/use power burners so I would not need as high of stack. That being said, I have a lot of left over bricks from the old kiln I tore down. The bricks are free at this point. I will take a pic of the burners I have when I get home this evening.
  13. I had the burners from the Minnesota flat top staring at me. They were saying they were free and wanted to get into the heat of things.......Atually, The power burners are a bit pricey. Anyway, I couldn't sleep last night so I did some calculations. I probably will use the power burners at higher pressure. I just have to get used to pulling the trigger on the price tag. Jed
  14. I have built a 13.5 cubic foot downdraft with 9 inch walls of K26 IFB. The floor has 4.5 inch IFB + 4 inch high silica refractory brick and a 2.5 inch heavy duty hard brick layer. The sprung arch is 7.5 inch IFB + 2 inch kaowool. I think it should require 225,000 BTU/hr. It's designed with 2 side burner at the back on either side of the chimney. I have 2 old atmospheric burner designed for propane. Each burner has three #52 drilled holes. At 7" WC natural gas it should produce 54,000 BTU/hr. According to Ward burner charts, if I keep 7" WC pressure, I would need to drill out the three holes with a 36 drill bit size. Each burner would then produce about 117,000 BTU/hr. CALCULATIONS: 3.3072(pressure funtion) x 11,796.84(orifice funtion) x 3 holes in each burner = 117,000 BTU/hr output Does this sound right?
  15. I'd love to see your kiln. Do you have any pics you could share? Jed
  16. With this Covid thing, I have given up using bat wash. I figure if the bats want to stay clean, they can shower off in the rain. Besides, it was nearly impossible to teach them social distancing. They would not keep their masks on when they were out of their cave. lol... Jed
  17. Inspection on gas line later this week. Gas company rep will be out next week to set a regulator and connect the burner system. Jed
  18. burner with baso and a small veturi. I have auto shut off valve as well. The tracer wire is in place. The depth required is 18". Jed
  19. Should I upgrade to a larger meter?
  20. 2# at the meter, 30 ft of 1" IPS. Based on above chart max output from the line would be 4424 cfh. There is nominal use in the house. A pool heater at 400,000 Btu is on the meter as well. I think if I run the pool and kiln at the same time, I'd run into problems using the current meter. So I will turn off the pool heater when I fire up the kiln. Jed
  21. I am digging my natural gas line to the kiln. The kiln is 20 cubic feet with 9 inch K26 walls, downdraft, powered by two power burners generating 300,000 Btu/ hr at max usage. I have calculated that I need 285 cfm natural gas. My meter is an AC 250 with 2lbs psi. What size regulator do I need? Jed
  22. I have been a fly on the wall of this thread. However, I would love to hear more about flame centerline and flame height. How do you check it, adjust it? To increase heat at the bottom, could you create spaces between bricks in the lower portion of the bag wall to allow more heat and flame to the bottom? Jed
  23. Could you create a crossdraft on the top of the chimney by placing a blower across the top creating a venturi effect....kind of like an airbrush. The rate of the blower could change the drawing of the chimney. Has anyone done this?
  24. I have about 140 of 10 1/2" x4" x 4", tongue and groove high silica btrick which were designed to go in the floor of blast furnace. I initially made a kiln using this brick as the outer layer and IFB as a liner. these bricks did not hold up to the thermal shock of repeated firing. Is there a use for these guys outside of a blast furnace? Jed
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