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jrgpots

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Everything posted by jrgpots

  1. Bill, I would love your spreadsheet logs. I don't want to hijack this thread any more than this. Jed
  2. My two burners in my kiln can go from 80 to 590 degrees fahrenheit in about 20 minutes when the kiln is empty. So, I think they will be able power through the firing. however, I need to build two candling pilot burners. My question is how many BTUs should these burner produce per hour??? The kiln is 12.5 cubic feet with 9" IFB side walls. Jed
  3. I was thinking of two thermocouplers. The flue sounds good, then the second high on the front wall. Thanks Jed
  4. Do I place my thermcoupler on the sidewall above the flame trough or on front or back wall away from flame? Jed
  5. How long should the flame be? Should it hit halfway to the opposite wall or longer? The gas valve on the last picture was about 1/4 open. At full open, the flame almost hits the opposite wall. Jed
  6. nozzles have not come in yet. I hooked up the gas valve, turned on the burners with the blowers. Here are some pictures. The first is reduction. The second is about gas half open with more primary air..
  7. A wanted to check on my burners. I just attached the blowers and rheostat. The electrical is still basic. The flame retaining nozzle
  8. The upper glaze could be an oil spot glaze. Oil spots glazes are usually cone 10, I think.
  9. About 4 years ago I tore down a 45 cubic foot minnesota flat top. It followed the plan by Nils Lou and was built in the mountains east of Fresno State. I kept all the braces as well as the kiln car. I will not be rebuilding it. This means I have an extra car, angle braces, and corner brackets I will never use. They are looking for a new home where they can be put to work. I live in Southern Utah not too far from Zion National Park. If anyone is interested in picking them up, let me know. Jed
  10. 1. The elbow will be at the ens followed by close nipple and retention tip. 2. I have a honeywell selanoid gas valve at the back of the gas line before the T to each burner. It is closed when not powered. It is part of my high limit loop. If the power goes out, it closes. It also closes when high temp limit is reached. The sensor for this loop will be my lower kiln thermocoupler. Does that sound reasonable? 3. I will redesign the gas nipple to give better air flow around it. When tested the flame was about 18 to 20 inches in length, but not a lot of blue. So I think I ne
  11. This is what I was planning on using. I have made similar burners for forge. I just worry about the airflow around the burner tip.
  12. define orifice bar please. It is the bar which secures the burner or is it the bar which holds the thermocoupler or pilot burner. Every specialty has its own nominclature. I'm still trying to learn all of pottery's terms. Jed
  13. 1. Are the flame retention tip male or female? 2. I have debulked the are in front of the port and I think I will have the mixing chamber come in at a 45 degree angle. It will just have a single 45 degree bend into the port. It's better than two 90 degree bends. Jed
  14. Thanks guys. I think i can do the burners as in Neil's drawing. I can also create more breathing room around the port by reducing the mass of the chimney base. I'll post my revisions this coming week. That being said, I'm proud of my arch. Jed
  15. yes. Because the building retrictions, I had to reduce from a 54 x 54 footprint to a 45 x 45. This put my primary burner ports in line with the chimney. So, I had to kick the chimney off the back wall by 13.5" giving me room for the burner inlets. The result is that the burner heads take two 90 degree turns after the mixing chamber in order to line up with the ports. If this causes problems, I will have to mount the burners vertically with a single 90 degree turn afer the mixing chamber to enter the kiln. I still have not mounted my blowers the the back of the burners. And finally, my bas
  16. view from the side. Still working with the gas line and burners. Jed
  17. Here is my new kiln with chimney. I salvaged the framework from my previous attempt. I'm still working on the gas works and power burners. But, there has been progress.
  18. Strictly speaking on definitions, modern pottery can remain "modern" for only 100 year. After that it would no more be modern pottery, but antuque pottery. So, as I see it modern pottery lasts fot 100 year. But, antique pottery ca last thousands........lol.....just thinking......maybe too much. Jed
  19. You are right. It would have had a better "draw" that way/ Jed
  20. 1. How high above the damper does the chimney need to be if I use power burners. 12 cubic foot downdraft, 9 inch walls with the chimney 13.5" away from back kiln wall? 2. how thick should the chimney wall be...4.5" or 9".
  21. The lower cone electric kiln walls are thinner than their cone 10 counterparts. You may want to think about removing the stainless steel and wrap it with kaowool. When you rewrap the kiln with the stainless steel, don't squish the kaowool. Instead, you may need to buy a 6 -9 inch wide sheet of stainless steel to cover the the gap in the original stainless steel sheet metal. Jed
  22. what seems "fun" to some, seems overwhelming to others....
  23. How does one monitor the pressure in the kiln? Does a person use a manometer and a water column, a piezoelectric plate, or is there a special guage that costs a bundle of money? Jed
  24. I'm in the process of ordering 2 baso valves, one main shut off valve, and two burner shut off valves. If I were to buy selanoid valves on the main and baso valves, could I use a furnace IFC control board or oil burner control board to manage everything, including a high limit shut off? I have a digital thermcoupler control. I could use that as my high limit shut off. maybe...kind of like the Geil controller... Jed
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