Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Yomama

  1. Eyvind thank you for this. That is much better than anything else I could find on this topic on my own. High quality info. I see you have it figured out with probably no optimization left possible. I really hope that one day I will be able to afford a PP. Fingers crossed. Until then thank you and the best of luck with your business
  2. Thank you. I came across this website some time ago. I found it very interesting with lots of good info.
  3. Ok great. Tnx again for the info. I remembered another question. When you extrude through this tile nozzle - what do you put under the extruding exit hole? Or on what support does the extruded clay land on? Do you extrude straight on the wooden boards, drywall? It would be best to extrude on the surface where you can cut into shape and also leave it to dry without moving... I’m glad that you where able to stay in this business for this long. I would say it is a good sign also for me Keep up the good work
  4. Thanks. And recommends using highly grogged hand building clay.
  5. Thank you. Replied to this post on the other one as well
  6. First of all: thank you for responding and sharing so much info. About the upper quote. This was in cases where you used the whole width of extruded clay - this edge arching. So only at the sides this happens? Currently I am a prospective buyer and I turned to this forum for info since PP customer service isn’t responding to my e-mails. I’ll try to respond here to the info from the other post you answered as well. You wrote your methods of keeping flat tiles flat. So low moisture, slow drying equally fast on both sides and adding grog to the clay. This all makes sense to me You also mentioned formulating your own highly grogged clay. Did you mix it and extrude it in PP tile extruder? I wonder how much damage does the grog do to the pugmill with time? If you buy powdered clay you can add less water and mix it and extruse it through this PP machine. That’s also very usefull. I am also on the lazy side so I would love it if I could manage to create a process where I would simply mix and extrude a suitable clay, cut it to a desired shape and leave it to dry on a wooden or wire shelf without any extra handling for the drying process How does it extrude porcelain? I have a very tricky porcelain for wedging and rolling. It is sticky and little plastic but it has great white fired color and high translucency. What is your experience with PP tile extruder and using it with porcelain? And also can I see you work anywhere on the internet? Any websites, fb/instagram page? Thank you again.
  7. I think I have this book somewhere at home or maybe in my workshop. I bought some tile making books a while ago. Thanks
  8. Hey Eyvind. I am wondering how does the Peter Pugger tile extruder work for you now. Do you still use it? Did You overcome those issues?
  9. Thanks Denice. I already have some tiles I am drying between sheetrock/drywall. Really hope it makes a difference. If it works well I’m going to tape the edges as well. Is there a website of yours where I can see your tiles or perhaps instagram or facebook page? Thanks again
  10. Thanks to everyone for your advice. I’ll try to find a less plastic clay and try your drying methods. I really hope it makes the difference.
  11. I had some test tiles glazed under the conditions they recommend. I did a 2 second dip and there were many pinholes. I also fired as they recommend. In general this 2 second dip I think absorbed too much glaze since the pottery turned a bit greenish after glaze firing. Some people commented on their site that if too thick it goes s bit green. I’m thinking of adding more water to the glaze to see how that works.
  12. Hello, I am using Witgert Mont Blanc porcelain for pouring into molds. I am having some trouble with glazing though. Any advice on bisque temperature and glaze specific gravity for dipping? I bought Scarva’s glaze GZ2305. It is a porcelain transparent glaze and they recommend adding very little water (like for dipping stoneware). I suspect I should add more water since porcelain bisque is very thirsty Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks
  13. Thanks Denice. I am glad it works for you. Will try this stacking method to see if it makes the difference. I am also interested in knowing what clay do you use for tiles and firing temperature. And thank you all for your advice.
  14. This pugmill also extrudes clay in a wide and thin so you just have to cut out the shape of a tile. No need to roll the clay... I saw that many handmade tile factories in USA work like this. This clay that I use now produces many warped tile. I try to slow down the drying. These tiles are used in a same way as industrial tiles - walls, low traffic floor.
  15. About wedging. Well I still have plent of cut-offs that I need to reuse.
  16. Hello. I am making handmade ceramic tiles and I am having some problems with making them as flat as possible. Currently my process is 100 % handmade ( wedging, hand rolling with wooden roller...) and around 1/4 of the tiles warp too much to be used. I use white stoneware with 25% chamotte size 0-0,2mm. I try really hard to not bend the clay while rolling and cutting tiles... So my question is: Would a pugmill like Peter Pugger VM-30TE get rid of my warping of tile problems? Should I try a different / more suitable stoneware? Anyone has any experience with tile making and wants to share the knowledge? Any other suggestions? Thank you.
  17. Thanks. Will try to make something out of it.
  18. DhPotter thanks for the suggestion. I’ll give it a shoot. Glazenerd that’s actually a very good info for me. Do you happen to have any recipe for borosilicate glaze? Should I just try making one with gerstley borate? What do you think?
  19. Thank you both for your answers. I read a lot of articles on the internet. Most of them on Digitalfire. If I understood correctly boron is a good melter and makes clear glass but it isn’t the best choice for hardness. It’s advised to keep the boron as low as possible (but enough to melt the glass properly - the higher the firing temperature the less boron is needed). I also read about magnesium and its matteness in glazes and aparently addition of zircon silicate also adds to hardness and gives opacity and white color. I’ve tried glazes called G2926B, G2916F and G2934. You can google them. They are all very good glazes and quite durable but not enough for floor tiles I’m affraid.
  20. Hello to all, I would like to get some help with developing a very strong, durable, scratch resistant base glaze (both glossy and matte) that take oxides and stains well. I am planing on making myself some floor tiles for my flat and would want to have a glaze that won’t get scratched if I have some stones in the sole of my shoe. Don’t know if you are familiar with Mohs scale of hardness... I am aiming at Mohs 6 or 7 hardness. Hopefully someone has done it already and is willing to share :) Thank you.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.