Marko Posted May 12, 2016 Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 I recently fired some ^6 pottery (bowls, cups, mugs, spoon rest) to ^04, so that I could fire my laser decals (used my HP LaserJet P1006) onto the ware. The decals fired nice, but the glaze changed colors. Does doing this increase the chance of chemicals leaching? Is it safe for consumer use? I have used the white cup with coffee, microwaved it and let it cool. There wasn't any crasing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neilestrick Posted May 12, 2016 Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 The glazes are still safe if they were before. Are your decals food safe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted May 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 The glazes are still safe if they were before. Are your decals food safe? This is the first time I used a decal on the inside. It is iron toner laser. But honestly, IDK, but I was hoping that someone here might have some insight on this method. I don't want to poison anyone. I guess, it would be safer on the outside of the ware. What if I coated over the decal with a low fire clear. IDK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joseph Fireborn Posted May 12, 2016 Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 I have no idea about the safety, but the glazes look very different. I like the changes, very interesting. Are you upset with the blue turning to that liquidy greenish blue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted May 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 I have no idea about the safety, but the glazes look very different. I like the changes, very interesting. Are you upset with the blue turning to that liquidy greenish blue? No, actually, I kinda like it. My wife likes it too. the lighter color is a gray/green with some of the blue show in spots. I'm just concerned about safety. The iron is pretty much melted into the glaze. I tried scratching it off with my fingernail and nothing comes off. I even watch the with cup with a dish sponge with the scrubber pad and still no change. The blue is, Bright Sky Blue from Mastering Cone 6 Glazes. The white is my own variation of John Hesseberth's Glossy Clear Liner Glaze with G-200HP and 10% Zircopax Plus. I also used the same base for my Blue and Green you saw on my Spiral Tumbler and Rice Bowl in the Gallery. I love this base. It's very stable. I am planning on making some other colors and try a ^6 majolica technique. Incorporating the laser decal as a sort of template background design. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joseph Fireborn Posted May 12, 2016 Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 Yea, I really like the color better than the blue, its rather unusual. Although blue might be more popular to sell. What is in the decal? I mean if its just iron then there isn't a real safety concern there, we eat stuff out of cast iron skillets for decades. I don't know what chemicals are in that stuff, is there a way to find out? That is where I would start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted May 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 Yea, I really like the color better than the blue, its rather unusual. Although blue might be more popular to sell. What is in the decal? I mean if its just iron then there isn't a real safety concern there, we eat stuff out of cast iron skillets for decades. I don't know what chemicals are in that stuff, is there a way to find out? That is where I would start. Thanks Joseph, I'm going to wait and see what some of the others may say. I do think it is safe, but I want to be, better safe than sorry. Here's a closer look. Sorry, a little out of focus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joseph Fireborn Posted May 12, 2016 Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 For sure on the safe than sorry. I think Pugaboo does a lot of these decals, maybe she will chime in later. I have never tired this stuff, it is super interesting. If it isn't food safe it would be pretty easy to just not put it on the inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted May 12, 2016 Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 mark, how about contacting the manufacturer of the materials used? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bciskepottery Posted May 12, 2016 Report Share Posted May 12, 2016 When I applied decals to some wall tiles, I only fired up to cone 016 or 017 and they fused nicely. I don't think you need to go to 04; that is high enough to start melting the glaze and start chemical changes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted May 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 mark, how about contacting the manufacturer of the materials used? I may call tomorrow. But I don't think HP ever thought their Laser prints would be on ceramics. But it's worth a try. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted May 13, 2016 Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 Does not look like anything to be concerned with. MSDS here: http://www.hp.com/hpinfo/globalcitizenship/environment/productdata/pdf/lj_cb435a_us_eng_v2.pdf The wax plus acrylic and styrene polymers are going to burn out leaving just the iron. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted May 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 When I applied decals to some wall tiles, I only fired up to cone 016 or 017 and they fused nicely. I don't think you need to go to 04; that is high enough to start melting the glaze and start chemical changes. I think a while back I tried 017 on some tiles, but they came out powdery. Where you using a HP printer? I make mine using decal paper and printing on them with the HP LaserJet P1006. I just checked Big Ceramic Store for their tips. They recommend ^015. So I'll do another test. Thanks Bruce. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted May 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 I have no idea about the safety, but the glazes look very different. I like the changes, very interesting. Are you upset with the blue turning to that liquidy greenish blue? I just check on Big Ceramic Store about Laser decals FAQ: Q: Can I put the cup/platter/plate with the final decal image in a microwave oven? A: Yes. As long at the original item was microwave safe, it still will be. Q: Is it food safe? A: Yes. It will be as food-safe as the original item. Q: Is it dishwasher safe? A: Yes. It will be as dishwasher safe as the original item. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted May 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 Does not look like anything to be concerned with. MSDS here: http://www.hp.com/hpinfo/globalcitizenship/environment/productdata/pdf/lj_cb435a_us_eng_v2.pdf The wax plus acrylic and styrene polymers are going to burn out leaving just the iron. Thanks Min. I downloaded the PDF. I feel better. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugaboo Posted May 13, 2016 Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 I don't think you will have any issues as everything but the iron burns out and if fired properly the iron sinks into and binds with the glaze used. I have actually sanded away at a transfer to test it out and they are pretty tough I had to grind away the glaze to remove any of the image. If you are concerned send a piece off to be tested. I use a couple different HPs to print my laser transfers as well and I fire them to either cone 04 with my bisque or cone 05 if the entire kiln load is transfers. Laser transfers are different than the commercial transfers you purchase preprinted, many of those do need a much lower firing range and can include things that are not food safe. If you use commercial ones make sure the materials they use to print them are rated food safe. T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pugaboo Posted May 13, 2016 Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 I forgot to mention that some glazes will change when refired to a lower temperature. Some will get softer less glossy in appearance as well. I've learned to take these changes into account when I choose which glaze to use. You don't need to use a laser transfer to experiment with changing the glazes like this simply run a glazed piece back through with a bisque load to see if it changes. Here is a picture of a new line I am developing using laser transfers and glazes I have tested to see how they change when refired to a lower temperature. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pres Posted May 13, 2016 Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 The 04's look interesting, but if you are unsure, you could try a few simple tests. Place a test tile in vinegar for 3 days, check the surface or leave some vinegar in a bowl with the decal for 3 days. Also do the inverse by leaving test tile in dishwasher detergent solution for three days, or pour into one of the bowls. Between the two of these, you should get a good idea of the acid and alkali possibilities of leaching. Not a tried and true test, but a start. To really check, use a lab analysis. best, Pres Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted May 13, 2016 Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 very pretty, terry, even if it is brown. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted May 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 I don't think you will have any issues as everything but the iron burns out and if fired properly the iron sinks into and binds with the glaze used. I have actually sanded away at a transfer to test it out and they are pretty tough I had to grind away the glaze to remove any of the image. If you are concerned send a piece off to be tested. I use a couple different HPs to print my laser transfers as well and I fire them to either cone 04 with my bisque or cone 05 if the entire kiln load is transfers. Laser transfers are different than the commercial transfers you purchase preprinted, many of those do need a much lower firing range and can include things that are not food safe. If you use commercial ones make sure the materials they use to print them are rated food safe. T Thank you Pugaboo. I have used commercial decals in the past, but since I found out about Laser decals I have been okay with it. But this is the first time I had used them on the inside, and I wasn't too sure about health. But thanks to everyone here, I feel more confident I can proceed. But I will try the test method Pres is suggesting. Thanks so much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marko Posted May 13, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2016 The 04's look interesting, but if you are unsure, you could try a few simple tests. Place a test tile in vinegar for 3 days, check the surface or leave some vinegar in a bowl with the decal for 3 days. Also do the inverse by leaving test tile in dishwasher detergent solution for three days, or pour into one of the bowls. Between the two of these, you should get a good idea of the acid and alkali possibilities of leaching. Not a tried and true test, but a start. To really check, use a lab analysis. best, Pres Hi Pres and thanks for your comment. As always, much appreciated. I am going to test the bowls I made as you suggest. I hope it doesn't matter what vinegar, I have Apple cider vinegar (good for the arteries). Day one starts today. I'll post my results after day 3, May 16th. I have a lab in mind, I just have to budget it in, and remember where I put the PDF file. Have a great day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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