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Use Of Slip Verses Under Glaze


TainiNZ

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can the same method be applied using Under Glazes.

 

I use underglazes fairly extensively. The main difference, I think, is that since slips are opaque and flat the top coat will cover whatever's underneath. Underglaze is transparent to semi-transparent and may possibly mix with the glaze beneath to create a different color. Depends what look you want. 

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I tell my students underglazes are like a colored slip, emphasis on "like".

 

Slip is just that, a liquid clay, sometimes with colorants added, sometimes not. When applying slip for surface deocration, it tends to work better, before the clay body gets too dry. Otherwise, it can crack off.

 

Underglazes are similar to slips, but have other additives, beyond colorants, like frits, which help them adhere to the clay body. Because of this, they can be used at any stage; on leatherhard clay, bone dry and even bisqueware.

 

Both slips and underglazes can be mixed, like paint, to create new colors, blend/ shade them, etc.

 

While either can affect glazes, that are put on top of them, they will not mix with the glazes, as neither becomes molten like glaze does... Unless they are over fired. Some of the colorants in the slips or underglazes, can alter the color of the glaze, or cause other issues however.

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Resident Underglaze Rodent, at your service! ♥

 

Okay, to be honest, I think it boils down to two things:

 

1. Cost

2. Desired effect

 

It is a LOT cheaper to make a big 'ol bucket of slip than to buy commercial underglazes for big surface treatments. If I used my white underglaze instead of slip to cover my terracotta for underglazing, I'd be in the poorhouse in no time flat! :D So, if you are planning on using a lot of only a few set colors, I'd totally use slip. :)

 

And effect?

Well...dang. There are a gazillion factors here. Are you working with dark, red, or white clay? Are you looking for opaque or transluscent color? What temperature are you firing at? Do you want to layer? What glazes are you using? I know it sounds like a pain, but these are pretty important things to consider. :)

 

Happy creating!

 

-Guinea

 

P.s. This is one of my favorite pieces I've done with slip and underglaze. The slip is white over terracotta, and I used mason stain for the brown and yellow (with gerstley borate added for flux). The leaves are Mayco's Apple Green, and the dark shading is watered-down mason stain Flourentine Green with gerstley borate. The gray shading is watered-down Amaco Velvet black, and the outline is Clay Art Center's Baltic Black A. ♥ I tend to use the same coloring technique with underglaze as watercolor. :)

post-63665-0-00832900-1444670911_thumb.jpg

post-63665-0-00832900-1444670911_thumb.jpg

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I totally forgot about the timing issue mentioned by Benzine. 

 

Slip is just that, a liquid clay, sometimes with colorants added, sometimes not. When applying slip for surface deocration, it tends to work better, before the clay body gets too dry. Otherwise, it can crack off.

Underglazes are similar to slips, but have other additives, beyond colorants, like frits, which help them adhere to the clay body. Because of this, they can be used at any stage; on leatherhard clay, bone dry and even bisqueware.

 

I'm so glad you mentioned this, I didn't even think of mentioning this aspect. I think it's something we've all learned the hard way like when it's too dry to attach handles and not picking up large greenware pieces one-handed and putting pressure on the rim and side. LOL

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In her workshop, Lana applied underglaze to a slab, let the underglaze dry to a tacky surface, then applied another underglaze. After going soft leatherhard, the slab was flipped and underglazes applied to the second side. Once those dried to a soft leatherhard, she would stretch the slab by tossing it against the table top to soften the line edges and thin the slab. Then, she would cut out her item and assemble it. All underglazes were applied pre-formation, not after.

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