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@sal.349 What color wires are the power cord?

Hi, I've been using Amaco's shino glazes and getting super matte results, however my last firing resulted in a glossy surface. Not sure what happened, but think I might have cooled it too fast? I typically cool it 200F per hour from 1900F to 1400F. Usually this works, but for some reason not the last time. What are my options now? I really want a matte surface... can I re-fire it and cool it slowly again? or is it too late? maybe I should try an acid wash to try to strip the gloss? Anyone have experience with this?

Thinking about how the initial wiring overheated both infinite switched (≫15amps per switch) and didn't trip the 30amp breaker(s). I suspect that the two element were in parallel across 120volts giving about 2*(120v/10Ω)=24amps. Rather than two elements in series across 240v giving about 240v/(10Ω+10Ω)=12amps. Emphasising Bill's point that you will now only need the neutral connection for wiring the pilot lights, not for any connections to the elements.

For 120v pilot light - one side of the light to the P terminal and the other side of the pilot to your neutral wire. This is the only thing you will need the neutral for now. I would leave the top receptacle disconnected for now, it will just likely be confusing.

You are the best!! so attach in a series manner, and which one does the little white light wire and black wire connect to in the series?

Sounds like worn 9.25 ohm. Use the series drawing above, I removed the parallel.

The ohms read about 11.0-10.3 I took the red and black and put it at the two ends of the element

@sal.349 I think @neilestrick is correct in that this kiln runs two 120v circuits, so individual element resistance is going to be important whether this is series or parallel. Power wise it ought to be 9.25 ohms equivalent at 240 volts. Measure and tell us the resistance of a single element before doing anything. This may need to be series wired pairs instead of parallel. So if they are 9.25 ohms each and that makes sense, you will need to make them series pairs to work. Series hookup

I sprinkle alumina whenever in question. Alumina wax only for lids to keep the alumina in place etc… for me. Yes, anything that sticks can cause issues so common sense try not to let anything stick when in question. Waster slabs can be a nice flat place to fire, maybe flatter than most shelves. There is nothing magical about them when they stick, or your ware sticks to them. In theory they will shrink at the same rate as your ware. Millions of pieces go through quartz inversion up and down every single day. I mention because it’s really hard to control real cooling rates in an electric kiln and they may be less than you are thinking naturally. With electronic controls, more of a drop and hold function with most kilns, but if you can do it - great! If you can’t, avoiding sudden cooling is a given, don’t open the lid. I did add a graph of a cooldown rate for a gas kiln below because most folks don’t map it. This is for a very leaky gas kiln that cools fairly quickly. After 1300 degrees its natural rate is well below 100 degrees per hour ( see the actual column). If you can control cool, have at it, but natural rates may be much lower than you are aware of.

After mugs, it’s small bowls that you can eat out of (as opposed to bowls large enough to serve things in). Cereal bowls, noodle bowls, salad bowls, etc.

Sponge holders were my biggest sellers, often more than mugs. They were probably the most profitable, too. I only had about 5-6 minutes of work in them and sold them for $22. They always covered all my booth fees.

If you have kiln wash on your shelf you don't need necessarily need to put anything additional under the waster, but if you want to be 100% sure then I'd do some silica sand under it. Definitely something on top of the waster for porcelain, but good practice for stoneware, too.

@neilestrick this is great information and totally new to me. I have used wasters in the past for other pieces, but never put anything between the waster and the kiln-washed shelf or the waster and the ware. And as you say, the waster still serves the purpose when it breaks! I haven't had issues yet, do you find that's more important for porcelain?

Thanks to everyone for the tips! I believe i'm going to try : alumnia wax on one, silica dust on another (I have a few spares, so i can afford a trial or three) controlled cooling through quartz inversion 1100 - 1000 @Min is 100/hr rate recommended?

@Bill Kielb Thanks for the tips! let me make sure i understand - do you recommend alumina WAX, painted on both sides of a waster slab, and not alumina sprinkled on the kiln shelf and the waster slab? is this for ease of application or...? And is there a reason people don't make silica wax? is it in some way different than alumina wax?

@Bill Kielb Paragon shows the elements as 9.25 ohms each. @sal.349 If this is true for your elements, you'll need to wire each pair of elements (top pair, bottom pair) in series and wire each pair to a switch at 240 volts, or wire them in parallel at 120 volts. Does the kiln have a 4 prong plug? Measure the element resistance so we can be sure what we're dealing with here.

The infinite switch is fine, unless damaged from your previous configuration. Each group of elements draws just over 12 amps. Your switch is rated for 15 amps. You need one switch per two elements. Usually elements will be jumped together at their barrel or element connector and run as just a single wire from there. See picture below of elements wired in parallel at the element connector. Ignore the yellow thermocouple and focus on the red wires leaving the elements.

Volume wise it’s small bowls. Little bowls, like what you might put dipping sauce or chopped herbs into. Good as ramekins for crème brûlée.

Thanks Kelly! I'll handle with care while it's young.

Bill you are a life saver! So two questions how do I connect the two wires in the middle and is the infinite switch the correct type? Should I get a different one ?

You should always have something on the waster to prevent the piece from sticking to it, whether alumina, silica, or kiln wash. Otherwise there's no reason to be using the waster at all. When the waster sticks, it's not like the entire bottom surface of the slab is fused to the shelf. It just catches in a few spots, preventing it from expanding/contracting and it cracks. But then the broken pieces can still expand and contract as needed.

Out of curiosity why a dusting of silica and not a bed? Lin

Here is the idea per element set. Each set of elements are placed in parallel and the group is wired to the infinite switch on h1 & h2. See drawing below. Proper electrical wiring, new crimps, no splices, no tape that will melt, high temperature wire made for kilns, other wire is not rated for the heat. Use the MG wire that came with the kiln, no butt splices, crimp new ends on the existing wire. You will NOT use the neutral when configured this way. Your kiln must be grounded for safety though, just no use for the neutral. Your kiln draws 25.9 amps so code requires for a continuous load, a breaker not less than 125% of the load but not exceeding 150% of the load. So 1.25 X 25.9 amps = 32.375 amps MINIMUM size and 1.5 X 25.9 amps = 38.85 amps MAXIMUM breaker size. Best pick for breaker (and wiring) would be a 35 amp double pole breaker. So your 30 amp two pole breaker seems undersized per code. Kilns are considered continuous loads but even so normally sizing for breakers is not to exceed 80% of its rated load. A 30 amp breaker can only be continuous loaded to 24 amps. I don’t think he sized this correctly. Somebody here can check my elements though, I think they are about 37 ohms each and all four in parallel (full power) approximately 9.25 ohms. Edit: see below for series pair wiring

Hi Cindi, Welcome to the Forum! Paragon Industries has a wiring diagram and parts identification .pdf for models A-99, A99B, A100B on their website; pick it from here: Kiln Wiring Diagrams | Paragon Industries LP (paragonweb.com) I'm not seeing a timer there, however, see "...kiln sitter (not shown)" under item 22. Is the timer motor part of the kiln sitter? If so, please ID the sitter make and model, and, if possible, supply an image? Robertshaw and Paragon... Paragon defrost timers, yep. Looks like Paragon kilns are made by Paragon Industries, L.P. in Mesquite, Texas ...if they are associated with Robertshaw, I'm not finding it. ...didn't know that Frederick W. Robertshaw invented the thermostat. They make a broad array of control equipment - there was a lot of Robertshaw stuff in the steel mill where I worked - I wouldn't be surprised (maybe a little bit) if a Paragon kiln has a Robertshaw control. Robertshaw headquarters is in Itasca, Illinois.

I only use alumina, because I have a ton of it and it will not stick to anything. Folks have done well with Silica though and it has better shape. All said, nobody makes silica wax.