Glaze as Glue

[JBT]

I've started using Glaze as a way to glue different pieces of ceramics together to create their own pieces.  I'm basically creating sculptures out of my pottery and am fusing them together with glaze.  When I apply glaze very heavily the bond is extremely strong but sometimes when there is less glaze the bond is vulnerable. I'm wondering  if anyone might have any recommendation on how to improve the strength of a glaze as a glue.  (maybe firing, glaze recipe changes, maybe glazes with a high % of metal or changing approach to soldering or lusters )

cheers

JB

[Bill Kielb]

6 hours ago, JBT said:

if anyone might have any recommendation on how to improve the strength of a glaze as a glue. 

My experience, very hard material and brittle, especially if its use ends up to fill gaps in the mating parts. Attaching clay to clay has always seemed most durable to me and post fired, structural epoxy has been my go to. Having said that, feet that remain in compression, things of that sort seem fine with glaze attachment. Things that can experience a moment (torque) such as cup handles can be unreliable or at least fail unpredictably.

[Pres]

Gravity is the big problem when gluing with a glazing. Geometry plays a big place in gluing also as the bulbous forms will have a tendency to slump., but then maybe you want that at times.

 

best,

Pres

[JBT]

I use Epoxy in many situation for this application i prefer the aesthetic of glaze.

I don't mind the slumping for this application!

Thank you.

 

[Callie Beller Diesel]

Glaze formulation is going to be less important than the mechanical join I think, if you’re set on doing it with glaze. As you already mentioned, where there’s more glaze, the join is stronger.

If you’re building pieces with the intent of glazing them together, can you leave some textured spots to increase the surface area where the pieces will attach? Thinking of a slip and score principle. 

[Min]

I would use a stiff glaze rather than a fluid one that thins out on edges. Like Bill said though, glazes are brittle so shearing breaks could very well be a factor.

I know it isn't what you asked about but I have been using Gorilla Max Strength Construction Adhesive in Clear for attaching  kenzan in Ikebana. It's 100% waterproof and really really strong! This stuff does not move when set, really good stuff. Perhaps that is another option to the epoxy? I used to use epoxy but find it can shear.

 

[Magnolia Mud Research]

I have done what you are doing.  The application of the glaze is one of the main variables.  The glaze composition and the "stiff ness" of the melted glaze is also an important variable.   There will be a difference between raw clay ware joining and bisque ware joining. Both are possible; important variables: application of the glaze, porosity of the bisque surfaces, and the  thickness of the glaze slurry.  Always make sure that weights and gravity are working for you at all of the joints.   the glazes used for my work was a shino glaze (very stiff) and a clear or celadon glaze (not very stiff); all cone 10 reduction. It works also at lower temperatures, just use glazes to fit the temperature.  

LT

[JBT]

21 minutes ago, Magnolia Mud Research said:

" There will be a difference between raw clay ware joining and bisque ware joining.

 

Have you found one way creates a stronger bond?

 

[JBT]

thank you everyone who has commented so far! I appreciate your suggestions!

JB

[Magnolia Mud Research]

40 minutes ago, JBT said:

Have you found one way creates a stronger bond?

 

nope  

[Bill Kielb]

11 hours ago, JBT said:

Have you found one way creates a stronger bond?

 

Just a quick comment, this bonding if convenient may be very suitable for your use. In general though it will always be weaker so trusting a cup handle to it is something I would discourage. From an observed perspective, it’s often said that eventually most glazes will craze because an exact fit is really tough to achieve. By observation, many crazed glazes fail before the base clay fails so likely not the best choice for a connection that can go into tension. For sculptural use, maybe just fine though. If there is a risk of failure you could always bond this way (glaze) and reinforce later with clear epoxy that has significant fill and tensile strength. In the end it is a bonded joint and at greater risk than a mechanical joint. So in the end if it’s 10 pounds and will hang from the ceiling ……..

Edited June 22, 2023 by Bill Kielb

[JBT]

thanks  bill I appreciate the safety reminder. I think I may take your suggestion to reinforce if it is a hanging piece or otherwise risky.

cheers

JB