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Clay Cracking problem


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I have a clay  sink that has been in my closet for awhile. I lost my kiln in a flood and have not gotten around to  finishing this piece.  It was fired and now needs cleanup and glaze. Problem is I notice some cracks where I attached the octopus tentacles with slip. Since it has already been fired is there something that I can do before trying to glaze to fix this problem. I am afraid it is going to fall apart in the kiln. I was wondering if repair can be done and then refired before glazing to save this piece. Any advice would be appreciated

Broken sink.pdf broken sink 2.pdf

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Before doing the paperclay patch as @neilestricksuggested, you might take a scratch tool like a dental pick and in one of the least obvious cracks do some scraping to see how deep the crack goes. If you can scratch to the bottom of the crack, you should be good to go with the paperclay. Otherwise, the cracks will probably reappear or the tentacles may pop off at the higher glazing temperature. When applying the paperclay, make sure the cracks are thoroughly wetted. If not, the patch won't stick...

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My impression, based on the photos, is that those cracks may get larger when the piece is fired to maturity, but I don’t see it falling to pieces, at all. A commercial bisque patch (from a reputable brand, such as Amaco) to fill the cracks was my first thought.

Personally, I’m a do-it-yourselfer and would probably go to great lengths grinding up bisque ware made of the same body, add just enough clay to make it stick together, and throw in a little paper for good measure.  Wet the piece, then fill the cracks as completely as possible, sand when dry and fire. Of course, you could do the sane thing and just buy some Bisque-fix.

I do recommend reading the instructions carefully before using it. 

Edited by Kelly in AK
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I'd go with one of the bisque fix materials myself.  Adding paper IMO just makes for a bulkier but weaker filler.  Once fired the paper will leave a lot of voids.  Great for light weight, not so much for strength.  If you can roughen up the edges of the cracks you'll get a stronger join so the bisque fix has something to 'grab' and hold together better than smooth surfaces.  Some small diamond coated files or diamond coated dremel tips will make short work of roughing and slightly widening the cracks.  Good to remove any loose pieces too that would otherwise be at risk of flaking off.

Edited by Hyn Patty
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