laurasaurus Posted February 18, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2023 I checked that too, I have a type K and the controller is set for a K as well What I can't find in the manual is the 9999 program and how to do it. Bill Kielb 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Bridge Pottery Posted February 18, 2023 Report Share Posted February 18, 2023 (edited) 59 minutes ago, laurasaurus said: I just saw your edit, do you think I should switch the wire in the controller (mine is the plus)? I don't think the previous owner opened it up and changed anything. If it keeps giving you the FtH error it could be another thing to try. See if changing the temperature deviation gets it to stop giving you the error first Could be good to know if the JPR2 is bridge or not when you have time to look inside the controller again. 1 hour ago, Bill Kielb said: Edit 5.425 - matches perfect and 44 amps gives her the design wattage so it ought to fire fine. The minor differences in element resistance could be partially in measurement. Did you get that from my wiring diagram? I am pretty sure it is right but maybe I got it mixed up. Seeing as the amps match up then I guess it should be good. Edited February 18, 2023 by High Bridge Pottery Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted February 19, 2023 Report Share Posted February 19, 2023 (edited) 14 hours ago, laurasaurus said: What I can't find in the manual is the 9999 program and how to do it. For this controller, knowing it errors anytime the actual temperature lags 100 deg f behind setpoint. If you are writing single test segment to 1000 f for instance, I would not go faster than 500 f per hour. It has a speed up and slow down function, seems a bit to learn. I think I would stick with a high speed rate no greater than their 360f degree per hour cone fire for early and intermediate segments. At top temperature most kilns struggle to make 110f per hour as their elements age, so that probably would be my fastest final segment here. Edited February 19, 2023 by Bill Kielb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted February 19, 2023 Report Share Posted February 19, 2023 3 hours ago, High Bridge Pottery said: Did you get that from my wiring diagram? I am pretty sure it is right but maybe I got it mixed up. Seeing as the amps match up then I guess it should be good. I did not look it up, I think you have the only possible, speculating we need on the order of 20 ohms to get a four segment parallel arrangement to be prox .5 ohms. High Bridge Pottery 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laurasaurus Posted February 19, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2023 Everyone, we (because you all helped me so much) finally had a successful firing! I am so relieved. The kiln hit cone 6 like a champ and my test pieces turned out beautifully ❤️ I cannot thank you enough for all the help, guidance and knowledge that you shared with me! Hulk, Bill Kielb and High Bridge Pottery 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Bridge Pottery Posted February 19, 2023 Report Share Posted February 19, 2023 That is great Glad you got it working again. Guess my ideas about the thermocouple were wrong and it is happy wired as it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laurasaurus Posted February 19, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2023 30 minutes ago, High Bridge Pottery said: That is great Glad you got it working again. Guess my ideas about the thermocouple were wrong and it is happy wired as it is. You know, part of me wants to open it up and try and find out but I am just going to leave it alone for now until I upgrade the controller. Like Bill said, it was so corroded that it had probably been that way for ages. High Bridge Pottery 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Bridge Pottery Posted February 19, 2023 Report Share Posted February 19, 2023 Yes if it's not broken don't fix it! Seems like a pretty fancy controller after reading the manual. I wouldn't bother upgrading if it's just to get a touch screen, I wasn't a fan when I tried using one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laurasaurus Posted February 19, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2023 I am not a fan of touch screen either, definitely prefer buttons. The upgrade would be for a number pad and dedicated buttons. The install seems easy enough I just need to open up the controller again and look if the transformer goes in there or in the kiln itself. I don't remember seeing one. This is the one I am looking at getting one day, but not for a while: Transformer: https://psh.ca/products/controller-transformer?_pos=1&_psq=transform&_ss=e&_v=1.0 Controller: https://psh.ca/collections/kiln-controllers/products/bartlett-v6-cf-control High Bridge Pottery 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Bridge Pottery Posted February 19, 2023 Report Share Posted February 19, 2023 Looks a lot like the one you already have that's in the kiln box and I would guess they do the exact same thing of changing 240v for 24v. Good to check though when you buy it but you could probably get away with using the old one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laurasaurus Posted February 19, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2023 15 minutes ago, High Bridge Pottery said: Looks a lot like the one you already have that's in the kiln box and I would guess they do the exact same thing of changing 240v for 24v. Good to check though when you buy it but you could probably get away with using the old one. Ah right, I remember you telling me now when I asked what "the yellow box" was! Sorry about that, it's been information overload, thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted February 19, 2023 Report Share Posted February 19, 2023 @laurasaurus, I bought that controller when I upgraded my PSH/Euclids kiln that I use for bisque. (I have the same kiln, 1991). Original controller was very rudimentary and many of the numbers on the touchpad no longer worked. If you are thinking of getting a new controller I would ask Jay or whoever you are dealing with at PSH if they have a reconditioned controller or one they have taken off a kiln for an upgrade. I got a used controller from PSH about 5 years ago with about 100 firings on it, saved a few dollars. We set it for using 2 tc's, there is room on the board for 1, 2 or 3 tc's. Given that I used this only for bisque I went with using 2 tc's. As you are using this for glaze firing also having 3 tc's would probably be very helpful, makes firing an even kiln load easier than relying on stacking alone. Hulk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laurasaurus Posted February 19, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2023 Also, great call on telling me to check the temperature deviation! It was weird that it was set to 56F instead of 100F. I am also going to change the controller over to Celsius because Farenheit confuses me! High Bridge Pottery 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laurasaurus Posted February 19, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2023 3 minutes ago, Min said: @laurasaurus, I bought that controller when I upgraded my PSH/Euclids kiln that I use for bisque. (I have the same kiln, 1991). Original controller was very rudimentary and many of the numbers on the touchpad no longer worked. If you are thinking of getting a new controller I would ask Jay or whoever you are dealing with at PSH if they have a reconditioned controller or one they have taken off a kiln for an upgrade. I got a used controller from PSH about 5 years ago with about 100 firings on it, saved a few dollars. We set it for using 2 tc's, there is room on the board for 1, 2 or 3 tc's. Given that I used this only for bisque I went with using 2 tc's. As you are using this for glaze firing also having 3 tc's would probably be very helpful, makes firing an even kiln load easier than relying on stacking alone. Aaaaah this is great advice, I have been in touch with Jay, he is so patient and helpful! I am also jealous that yours is attached to the kiln and not separated, I will ask him about that too. Right now I just have the one thermocouple, but it makes sense to have three (or even two). Thank you for sharing, I was beginning to think that no one had this kiln! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted February 20, 2023 Report Share Posted February 20, 2023 (edited) 1 hour ago, laurasaurus said: Right now I just have the one thermocouple, but it makes sense to have three (or even two). Nice to see all working. Your kiln is set up as single zone in its wiring as well. Right now your top and bottom elements are on a relay and your center is on a second relay. To zone it, the element circuits will need to match the zoning. Edited February 20, 2023 by Bill Kielb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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