laurasaurus Posted February 18, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2023 (edited) On 2/14/2023 at 2:21 AM, Bill Kielb said: . Eventually I would like to see a picture of the orange thing with two leads coming out of it that goes across the relay. It’s known as a snubber, super good to have, super uncommon for kilns. I just want to verify what it is so maybe the part number on the front of it at some point. Hi Bill, changed out the relays tonight, as requested here is a close up of the snubber with the part number. Test fire happening now, relays are clicking normally, wish me luck! Edited February 18, 2023 by laurasaurus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted February 18, 2023 Report Share Posted February 18, 2023 Way to go! Thanks, fingers crossed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laurasaurus Posted February 18, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2023 On 2/14/2023 at 2:21 AM, Bill Kielb said: I don't know this is going to be a success, I took a peak inside and it still looks like just the bottom and top elements are on again. So frustrating! I don't know if I should stop this firing or let it go and see the error code again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laurasaurus Posted February 18, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2023 38 minutes ago, laurasaurus said: I don't know this is going to be a success, I took a peak inside and it still looks like just the bottom and top elements are on again. So frustrating! I don't know if I should stop this firing or let it go and see the error code again. Perhaps I spoke too soon, at A About 900F the middle elements started to glow. Definitely not as orange as the top and bottom but definitely better than the previous time. Hulk and Bill Kielb 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted February 18, 2023 Report Share Posted February 18, 2023 (edited) If I read your timing right, I am guessing about 300 f per hour on average, which likely would be hard to achieve on only half the elements. If elements aren’t visibly glowing at about 1000f something is generally wrong especially for single zone so hopefully you are in good shape. Edited February 18, 2023 by Bill Kielb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laurasaurus Posted February 18, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2023 8 hours ago, Bill Kielb said: If I read your timing right, I am guessing about 300 f per hour on average, which likely would be hard to achieve on only half the elements. If elements aren’t visibly glowing at about 1000f something is generally wrong especially for single zone so hopefully you are in good shape. Ugh so frustrating, I got FtH again but at 1901F. Will test the elements with the paper test now. Bill Kielb 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted February 18, 2023 Report Share Posted February 18, 2023 1 minute ago, laurasaurus said: Ugh so frustrating, I got FtH again but at 1901F. Will test the elements with the paper test now. Can you just measure their resistance? Curious if any are open? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Bridge Pottery Posted February 18, 2023 Report Share Posted February 18, 2023 Probably worth checking what the temperature deviation value is set to as you can change it manually and maybe the previous owner set it to something strange. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laurasaurus Posted February 18, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2023 4 minutes ago, High Bridge Pottery said: Probably worth checking what the temperature deviation value is set to as you can change it manually and maybe the previous owner set it to something strange. Just checked, it's set to 56F. Thanks. Will also grab my multimeter and check the elements. High Bridge Pottery 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laurasaurus Posted February 18, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2023 Do you think I should replace or even clean these connectors maybe? I don't know if that would make a difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted February 18, 2023 Report Share Posted February 18, 2023 They look pretty decent, cleaning and retightening ok but if you can measure the elements as accurate as possible that would tell us a whole bunch. If I understand it, they all glow so if you have the means measure first and let’s see if they are in reasonable range is my thought. Put that issue 100% away at this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Bridge Pottery Posted February 18, 2023 Report Share Posted February 18, 2023 Seems to say the factory default is 100f/56c so either it's been changed to 56f or it's showing the default Celsius. In your element photo the set above the bottom element looked a bit suspicious to me so maybe there's a break somewhere along those. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted February 18, 2023 Report Share Posted February 18, 2023 27 minutes ago, laurasaurus said: Just checked, it's set to 56F. Thanks. Will also grab my multimeter and check the elements. Yep, Just confirmed - pg 17 of the manual. If set at 56f it needs to be 100 f. @High Bridge Pottery is spot on. Not sure how long it took to error so 100 degrees from setpoint would give it more time to make temp without the error. What ramp speeds have you been programming or are you using cone fire mode? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laurasaurus Posted February 18, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2023 Got my multimeter and did a check,.from top to bottom: 1) 19.9 2) 12.8 3) 11.9 4) 11.6 5) 11.9 6) 19.6 The kiln is set for F, I will change it to 100F. I don't know why that would be the only number that is in C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Bridge Pottery Posted February 18, 2023 Report Share Posted February 18, 2023 It seems to say when celcius is selected the right most decimal point on the display should be lit. Might be a way to confirm what it is showing but I agree it should be in f like everything else. How many amps is the kiln meant to be? I got 44.23 amps from those resistances but my maths could be wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laurasaurus Posted February 18, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2023 (edited) 4 minutes ago, High Bridge Pottery said: It seems to say when celcius is selected the right most decimal point on the display should be lit. Might be a way to confirm what it is showing but I agree it should be in f like everything else. How many amps is the kiln meant to be? I got 44.23 amps from those resistances but my maths could be wrong. Thank you! No dot is there and I just changed it to 100. It's a big kiln, it's meant to be 42A, it's on a 60 breaker. Edit: confirmed that everything is in F. Edited February 18, 2023 by laurasaurus High Bridge Pottery 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted February 18, 2023 Report Share Posted February 18, 2023 (edited) You will likely need to call Euclids, the distribution of your elements is a bit odd. I’ll check the math in a few moments but please post the wattage and operating voltage on the kiln equipment tag. Edited February 18, 2023 by Bill Kielb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laurasaurus Posted February 18, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2023 Thanks. Here is the tag. I also contacted my electrician who installed the kiln just to confirm that yes he confirmed that everything is good for 240V. I will call Euclid, I have been in touch with them via email but it hasn't been too too helpful I will also try again and call a local kiln repair person, I have been trying to reach him but no luck. You had asked my ramp speed before. I got errors when I did just the straight cone 6 and also when I selected F-20, I followed the steps in the manual but did not add a hold. It's frustrating. The former owner said that she used it and everything was fine and it then sat unused for about a year or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High Bridge Pottery Posted February 18, 2023 Report Share Posted February 18, 2023 (edited) See what you come up with Bill, this is what I could work out as far as how they are wired. Sorry for the low quality photo, just didn't want to turn the big light on so auto-white balanced a dark image. Are we sure the terminals the thermocouples wired into on the board are not causing it to expect two thermocouples when it only has one? Seems like a strange error to wait until 1900f to spit out but who knows... Edited February 18, 2023 by High Bridge Pottery Bill Kielb 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted February 18, 2023 Report Share Posted February 18, 2023 (edited) Sorry, eating lunch and typing on a calculator with sticky keys. 1 get 5.365 ohms. Did it as one long algebraic, will double check - kids, coke and calculator keys not a good mix Edit 5.425 - matches perfect and 44 amps gives her the design wattage so it ought to fire fine. The minor differences in element resistance could be partially in measurement. With the high limit set at 100f you likely will make cone 6 now with no error. The conefire schedules for 04 and cone 6 don’t exceed 360 degrees f per hour (page 20), so I would suggest not exceeding that in your manual schedules as well. It really looks like this is good order now. Edited February 18, 2023 by Bill Kielb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laurasaurus Posted February 18, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2023 20 minutes ago, High Bridge Pottery said: See what you come up with Bill, this is what I could work out as far as how they are wired. Sorry for the low quality photo, just didn't want to turn the big light on so auto-white balanced a dark image. Are we sure the terminals the thermocouples wired into on the board are not causing it to expect two thermocouples when it only has one? Seems like a strange error to wait until 1900f to spit out but who knows... I just saw your edit, do you think I should switch the wire in the controller (mine is the plus)? I don't think the previous owner opened it up and changed anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laurasaurus Posted February 18, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2023 20 minutes ago, Bill Kielb said: Sorry, eating lunch and typing on a calculator with sticky keys. 1 get 5.365 ohms. Did it as one long algebraic, will double check - kids, coke and calculator keys not a good mix Edit 5.425 - matches perfect and 44 amps gives her the design wattage so it ought to fire fine. The minor differences in element resistance could be partially in measurement. With the high limit set at 100f you likely will make cone 6 now with no error. The conefire schedules for 04 and cone 6 don’t exceed 360 degrees f per hour (page 20), so I would suggest not exceeding that in your manual schedules as well. It really looks like this is good order now. Do you think maybe I should set it higher at like 300 or would that be crazy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted February 18, 2023 Report Share Posted February 18, 2023 (edited) It seams to match the auto fire diagram in the bottom and configured as single zone, I don’t think I would change it without a good reason. It corroded so much it’s hard to believe it ever was anywhere else. Your cleanup job looks great, I think it’s time to test to cone six. I think it should take say 7 - 9 hours ish. With no errors! Edited February 18, 2023 by Bill Kielb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
laurasaurus Posted February 18, 2023 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2023 (edited) Fingers crossed, I think I will actually cry from happiness if it makes it! I can't thank everyone enough for helping me. This has definitely been a learning experience and I can confidently say that I am no longer scared of opening up the control box and getting my hands in there! Eventually I want to upgrade the controller and hopefully it will be relatively easy! Edited February 18, 2023 by laurasaurus Bill Kielb 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kielb Posted February 18, 2023 Report Share Posted February 18, 2023 After scanning the manual, I would check that you have an S type thermocouple and your control is set to type S, else if you have a type K then the control is programmed accordingly. Mixing these two will definitely cause your kiln not to fire correctly. Worth the double check for sure. Page 21,22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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