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Raku from electric front-loader kiln?


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Hello lovely potters,

Having tried a raku firing at a friend's, I would love to do some of my own - but my kiln is an electric front-loader.

Does anyone heat the pots up in that and pull them out (horizontally of course) to put in the sawdust? I realise standard raku tongs grab the pot by the scruff of the neck, from the top, but my friend had some special tongs made that have two parallel rings instead of teeth. We didn't use them, but maybe these could grab a pot by the belly and get it out of the kiln.

Would heating elements be destroyed by opening the kiln door at 900°C and closing it quickly?

Is there any other reason it can't be done?

Thanks!

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It's definitely going to be harder on the kiln than not doing it, but it isn't going to destroy the elements. If there's any sheet metal or framing metal that would be exposed to the heat you may get warping. I had a front loading gas raku kiln that I never had problems with, but the framing was all 1/4" steel and far enough from the heat that it was't an issue. If you have framing right up against the door jamb it could be a problem, especially at the top.

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12 hours ago, neilestrick said:

It's definitely going to be harder on the kiln than not doing it, but it isn't going to destroy the elements. If there's any sheet metal or framing metal that would be exposed to the heat you may get warping. I had a front loading gas raku kiln that I never had problems with, but the framing was all 1/4" steel and far enough from the heat that it was't an issue. If you have framing right up against the door jamb it could be a problem, especially at the top.

Thanks! That's a point about what is exposed to the heat, besides one's face. The kiln is this one: https://www.potterycrafts.co.uk/ProductGrp/p5910a-fireworker-eco-50lt-3kw-13a-1200c. Maybe it's wiser to stick to what everyone else does...

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On 2/16/2022 at 7:32 PM, Callie Beller Diesel said:

I think if you’re playing around with a handful of firings, using what you have rather than building something for the purpose will be more economical in the long run. Unless you have kiln refractories lying around, and can borrow a propane torch attached to a bbq tank.

Nothing lying around I'm afraid.

 

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99% of my Raku pottery is fired in an electric kiln.  I've developed a system that works for me using small skutt top loading kiln with a cone setter.   The glazes I use are commercially available and fire to cone 08.  I load the kiln, turn it on high until the kiln temp reaches 08 and shuts off.(takes about 1 hr. and 15 min.)   My pieces are immediately removed from the kiln, placed in a trash can with newspaper which is covered with the lid to complete the reduction process. 

A front loader should work, (if it's not to big) however before you try this, practice removing the pot from the kiln before firing so you'll feel comfortable when it comes time to remove your glowing red hot pot from the glowing red hot kiln.

I have built 2 wood fired raku kilns.  They are fun to fire in the summer time however the results are inconsistent .

 

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I think there are two primary downsides to doing raku in an electric kiln. First, it's a lot slower than firing with gas. A good gas raku kiln can reach temp in 20 minutes, much faster than an electric kiln. If you're firing any sort of volume, that speed can make a big difference in your production. The second downside is the risk of damage to the element grooves when pulling the work out. Electric kiln element grooves are very fragile, and the odds of bumping them and breaking them is pretty high when you're working with tongs and a 1900F kiln. A front loader would be better, but a gas kiln is much more durable.

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10 hours ago, njabeid said:

Thanks. Is the firing speed essential to the process, or just convenient for production? If one only does it for fun now and then,  and is not in a hurry, does it matter?

 

Generally - The speed is a production thing as getting it to temperature takes time and most folks are trying to fire several loads of stuff they made. So going slower is fine and a bit safer for the pots.  Removing  the pots and placing them in containers should go a reasonable safe speed so they stay as hot as practical while getting the surface reduced. Generally when the glaze is melted, those pots are pulled. When we want to get precise we use a green laser (with appropriate protective glasses for the infrared) to see exactly when the glaze has fully melted.

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the reason for speed seems to me to be that when someone wants to raku fire, it usually becomes an event with lots of participants.   since the raku firings i have attended are done in round top loading kilns with only room for 3 or 4  pieces at the same time, speed is essential so everyone gets a turn.   the kilns are usually lightweight wire frames that lift off the shelf of work.   that lifting is done with welding gloves.

for me, the fun is the crowd and the potluck supper afterward.  passing around all the pots and inspecting them is great as well.   it is more of a party than a firing.

i do not know anyone who fires raku alone.   except for marcia.

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On 2/20/2022 at 1:15 AM, Bill Kielb said:

Generally - The speed is a production thing as getting it to temperature takes time and most folks are trying to fire several loads of stuff they made. So going slower is fine and a bit safer for the pots.  Removing  the pots and placing them in containers should go a reasonable safe speed so they stay as hot as practical while getting the surface reduced. Generally when the glaze is melted, those pots are pulled. When we want to get precise we use a green laser (with appropriate protective glasses for the infrared) to see exactly when the glaze has fully melted.

Being new to raku, I'm curious about the glaze melt. If the glaze is fully melted, don't the tongs damage it?

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15 hours ago, oldlady said:

the reason for speed seems to me to be that when someone wants to raku fire, it usually becomes an event with lots of participants.   since the raku firings i have attended are done in round top loading kilns with only room for 3 or 4  pieces at the same time, speed is essential so everyone gets a turn.   the kilns are usually lightweight wire frames that lift off the shelf of work.   that lifting is done with welding gloves.

for me, the fun is the crowd and the potluck supper afterward.  passing around all the pots and inspecting them is great as well.   it is more of a party than a firing.

i do not know anyone who fires raku alone.   except for marcia.

Great info, thanks. That was what I kind of thought, until I mixed some 'raku glazes' out of a book and used them in the trial firing and was knocked over by the iridescent results. Two recipes failed, two were spectacular, and there is no other way to get those effects. It would have to be a team effort anyway in my case, one person to open and close the front loader kiln door quickly and the other to pull out the pots. Lots of food for thought and an itch to give it a try.

96346177-8e0b-40cd-b562-b7d6ba702b22.jpeg

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7 hours ago, njabeid said:

Being new to raku, I'm curious about the glaze melt. If the glaze is fully melted, don't the tongs damage it?

It depends on the glaze. Many raku glazes are so busy that a scar wouldn't be noticeable, and some raku glazes are barely glazes. I have seen scars on some pieces, but it's rarely an issue from an aesthetic standpoint.

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