AnnaVela Posted February 8, 2021 Report Share Posted February 8, 2021 So I have a design idea for a client and thinking what would be the best way to realize it and if it’s even possible )) Maybe someone has an idea. Just general info: I’m firing to cone 04 bisque and then 5-6 for glazes. I have white clay piece, I will glaze with dark blue glaze half of it and need to add yellow strokes on top of blue/white where glazed part meets unglazed clay. Is there a ways to paint yellow on top of blue so that they don’t mix and don’t become green where they are layered? I also will be using red glaze on some pieces and need yellow strokes on top not becoming orange. I’m sitting here for two days trying to invent an option )) If I paint the underglaze over the glaze they will mix, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted February 8, 2021 Report Share Posted February 8, 2021 Have a look at the Mayco Stroke & Coat line. If your base glaze (the blue you use) is a fairly stiff, non fluid glaze the Stroke & Coats used overtop of it could work. Underglaze overtop of glaze could work also, would have to test it and see. https://www.maycocolors.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/2020-Stroke-Coat-brochure_web.pdf BTW, yellow and blue won't necessarily make green, glazes don't play by the same rules as paints etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnnaVela Posted February 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2021 Got it! I will try to test it both with underglaze and stroke&coat, I have a few bottles, so I might just test with what I’ve got. And yes, I know about the mixed colors in glaze that they not necessarily follow the rules of paint, I just didn’t know how to explain better )) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldlady Posted February 8, 2021 Report Share Posted February 8, 2021 anna, there is a technique which might work with underglaze. if you put the yellow in place and cover it with wax, you can then do the background blue and the two should stay separate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnnaVela Posted February 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2021 I will try this for sure! Thanks you for the ideas! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sorcery Posted February 9, 2021 Report Share Posted February 9, 2021 Or use a paper resist where the yellow will go, and put the yellow after. Sorce Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilly Posted February 19, 2021 Report Share Posted February 19, 2021 Test, test, test. If your finished item will be a plate, test on plate shapes. If a mug or vase, straight-sided or bulbous, test on similar. Horizontal and vertical surfaces, inside or outside, all can affect end result. Oh, did I say test, test, test. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarilynValencia Posted March 29, 2021 Report Share Posted March 29, 2021 On 2/8/2021 at 2:11 PM, Min said: Have a look at the Mayco Stroke & Coat line. If your base glaze (the blue you use) is a fairly stiff, non fluid glaze the Stroke & Coats used overtop of it could work. Underglaze overtop of glaze could work also, would have to test it and see. https://www.maycocolors.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/2020-Stroke-Coat-brochure_web.pdf BTW, yellow and blue won't necessarily make green, glazes don't play by the same rules as paints etc. I have a question about the Stroke & Coat. My studio does a bisque fire on all our pieces, and then fires them again at cone 10 after glazing. I have done Amaco underglazes on both greenware and bisque, but many of the colors darken or lighten so much when fired at cone 10 that I'm not really getting the look I want. Plus any overlapping of them tends to blend the two colors somewhat so I'm not really getting the layered look of distinct colors like when I do my acrylic paintings on canvas. Do you know if the Stroke & Coat fires better at cone 10 with regard to their vividness, as well as keeping the separation, than something like the Amaco underglazes? Or am I stuck trying to find a studio who only fires to cone 6 and therefore paying per piece? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Min Posted March 29, 2021 Report Share Posted March 29, 2021 7 minutes ago, MarilynValencia said: Do you know if the Stroke & Coat fires better at cone 10 with regard to their vividness, as well as keeping the separation, than something like the Amaco underglazes? They are listed as able to go to cone 10 but like all things ceramic results will vary. I'ld put a test piece in the firing with all your colours and see what happens. I haven't fired them to cone 10 so can't answer more specifically. 9 minutes ago, MarilynValencia said: I have done Amaco underglazes on both greenware and bisque, but many of the colors darken or lighten so much when fired at cone 10 that I'm not really getting the look I want. The covering glaze makes a difference in how they look also. Welcome to the forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilly Posted April 3, 2021 Report Share Posted April 3, 2021 On 3/29/2021 at 5:48 PM, MarilynValencia said: Do you know if the Stroke & Coat fires better at cone 10 with regard to their vividness Make a test tile. Like a mini chess board. On each square, do 1, 2, 3 and 4 coats of your medium. Then add a dab of clear glaze in the centre of each square, so some of the medium is left unglazed. Take a photo and write on the photo which colour is where. Make sure you know which is top and bottom. When fired, you will have a reference showing light coats, medium coats, heavy coats, with and without glaze. I could spend a whole lifetime making tests like this. Can also do colour a over colour b................. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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