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AnnaVela

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About AnnaVela

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    Pebble Beach, CA
  1. Thank you for idea on how to measure a bounce! I guess my issue is not hotizontal wobble, but rather side to side. Here are two videos: https://streamable.com/d3e9xz https://streamable.com/zumsa6 Am I being too sensitive about it? )))
  2. Ok, so here is the horizontal video of the head. https://streamable.com/jj870h Regarding the build, head slides into two plastic parts, which are mounted to the base with bolts and nuts. I’ve disassembled and cleaned everything. I’ve tried to film those parts as well.
  3. I’ve adjusted the motor a bit, also straightened it up with the bolts, no difference. I’m waiting for a new belt to come, to see if this would make a difference. But even without the belt I can see the bounce when I manually spin the head. Attaching the photos of my spare head and pulley, so you can see the bearings construction. Also uploaded the video of the top, you can notice the wobble on the rim which worsens with pressure and weight of clay. https://streamable.com/gv1pnbBy
  4. Also if you look at the video on the bottom of the wheel head you can see the bounce. I can even hear it, I know this rhythm too well now ...ugh
  5. I will try to attach more photos. The belt sits in the grooves on the motor, I lined up the pulley so it goes right in the middle of a pulley. I’m now thinking if I should move the motor lower and pulley as well. It seems I can’t move the motor up if you see the mounting.
  6. The head definitely gets the wobble, I especially feel it when trimming. I’m not sure if I can move the motor though. You mean to “straighten it up” right? Because I can’t move it up or down
  7. I managed to upload a video https://streamable.com/r72cdj I have two wheel heads and switching them doesn’t make any difference. Each head comes with its own bearing, it’s assembled this way. When I pull it out, it cones off all together. So I basically slide the head and fix the pulley to it.
  8. Everything is tight, I disassembled and switched heads two times, made sure it fits snug. The only thing I did is switch the motor, but again, everything is tight and nice. Motor is new, so is the head, so this should not be bearings, right? The only thing that is old it’s basically the base and the belt. The wheel is leveled and I don’t move it much. I’m trying to upload the video, but seems that the size is too big or it’s the format.
  9. I’m trying to figure out my Speedball Clay boss wheel. I bought it second hand and worked for a few months on it. Recently it started to bounce and it affects my centering, especially larger amounts of clay (2-3 pounds and up). Also trimming. When I look at the pulley I see a vertical wobble. I was in contact with the customer service and they sent me a new pulley, no change. I also have a spare wheel head, makes no difference. I’ve tightened the belt to maximum, today tried to loosen it, still the wobble. I just ordered a new belt, may an older belt cause a wobble? I’m out of ideas...
  10. Sounds great! I actually have a few different clay bodies, so I will test the glaze with all of them. I really like the look of speckled clay, but it’s very unpredictable, so I guess I’ll continue my search For a perfect speckled body.
  11. Yes! I was surprised to see some tiny spots of glaze around the kiln. I’m using this body a lot and it does produce pinholes often, but nothing like those huge blisters. I guess this glaze is just not a good fit for this body.
  12. What would be your solution to avoid it in future? I’m surprised that one of three mugs turned out perfect and other two had bubbles. Same clay body, same application process etc. The only difference I could think of is position in kiln and maybe bisque sponging (maybe one was more wet/dry than the others). The clay is light yellow with speckles. The reddish color near the lip is due to reaction with the other glaze, which was coated outside and on the lip.
  13. My reply got lost somehow yesterday )) I did grind the bubbles and ready to go. I have 100% manual kiln without thermocouple, so I’m not sure how to slow the last ramp and hold, how to know when to start etc. I use witness cones and check the approx.color of the kiln inside to check how firing goes. Kiln fires pretty exact, I didn’t notice any overfiring based on how witness cones bend. I now gave another idea. What if I I use low-fire glaze on bubbles and fire them to cone 06? I have some low fire glaze remains, so could use a bit. considering that mugs were already fired twice to cone 6 and 5, the clay is vitrified and won’t have issues with leaking. What do you think?
  14. My friend has her eye set on those that’s why I’m trying to fix them. I’d try one more time and maybe toss them after that ))
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