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firing kiln in extreme cold


Giovannaaa1109

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30 minutes ago, Giovannaaa1109 said:

@neilestrick Good to know about the fuse. I have not heard any buzzing or clicks from the beginning. When I ran the diagnostic test earlier today, I heard a soft  buzzing sound on output 2, but no clicks. All I did was simply run the test, and let it go through its 4 Outputs and after that was done in about 5ish minutes or so it said idle, so I assumed it ran through long enough to burn the paper or not. 

Run the ramp/hold program and let me know what happens. If the relays don't click when you  start the firing then they are either dead, or they're not getting power.

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@Giovannaaa1109 Each coil loops twice, so the top 4 are actually just 2 elements. So either something isn't hooked up correctly, or you've got two burned out relays. You'll need to test with a multi-meter to know for sure, or if you have spare relays just swap them out and see if they work. Do you have a meter? If not, you can get one at the hardware store for less than $20, like THIS one. Just make sure whatever you get is digital.

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@Giovannaaa1109 On each relay there is a power end which has 4 tabs, and a control end which has two tabs. On the control/two tab end, the two control wires should jump from one relay to the next, so they're all daisy chained together- right tab to right tab to right tab, left tab to left tab to left tab. Is that how they're done? It would help to post a picture here of the inside of your control box, so we can look at the wiring.

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38 minutes ago, Giovannaaa1109 said:

Thank you for this info, super helpful. I will take a picture and go in tomorrow (for sunlight) with the multi meter and keep you posted. Thank you again 

As above,
Definitely picture which hopefully shows that all your relays are powered from terminal #2 because this is a single zone kiln (one thermo couple) so if there is a way to get terminal #2 in the  picture as well as where the wires lead from it, that would be great. It should be reasonably easy to diagnose from there.

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My computerized kilns are in an unheated shed in red lodge Montana.  Last year, when I was concerned there might be condensation in the controller, I went out there with a hair dryer and blow-dried the board from the bottom and top vents. We had 32 days without begetting above zero Fahrenheit.  I have not had any trouble with them.  I fire them when it is 10 degrees. No problem. It is fairly dry mountain air. 

Marcia

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Here are photos of what everything looks like. Brand new circuit board, transformer and wiring (minus one I couldn't remove) Pretty much everything new besides the relays. I think I will just purchase new ones, they probably haven't been replaced since the 90's. I have a fear of getting electrocuted while using the multimeter, so Ill just buy new relays.

Only question I had was on some websites they have these deltrol relays, but they show 8 connector tabs, while mine has only 6. Are the 6 and 8 tab the same thing? Are mine old and the updated version have 8 tabs? Being that everything has been updated do I use for the potter and brumfield relay? 

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3 hours ago, Giovannaaa1109 said:

Here are photos of what everything looks like. Brand new circuit board, transformer and wiring (minus one I couldn't remove) Pretty much everything new besides the relays. I think I will just purchase new ones, they probably haven't been replaced since the 90's. I have a fear of getting electrocuted while using the multimeter, so Ill just buy new relays.

Only question I had was on some websites they have these deltrol relays, but they show 8 connector tabs, while mine has only 6. Are the 6 and 8 tab the same thing? Are mine old and the updated version have 8 tabs? Being that everything has been updated do I use for the potter and brumfield relay? 

 

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The extra tabs are what are known as normally closed  contacts. Kilns don’t generally use them and your original relays simply have them cut back. So the relays are rated the same and if you got the 8 tab version you simply would not use the front most contacts. Cutting them back yourself is discouraged as they often tilt forward when cut by hand and mess up the contact alignment and air gap.

Your pictures are wonderful but many of the wires are so long and curled it’s really impossible for me to follow them with any accuracy. My last thought is PM me and we can set up a time to maybe Skype and go through this pretty easily until your kiln works. I really think it should not take much more than 30-45 minutes, likely less to figure out what the problem is. That’s my best idea at this point.

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@Giovannaaa1109 From what I can tell the wires seem to be correct. Just double check that you're on Output 2, not one of the other Output tabs. It's possible that you've got 2 burned out relays. It's rare, but it happens- just saw that on a kiln today. They're definitely old and due for replacement. Those are probably the original relays that came with the kiln. Try getting a pair of vice grip pliers on that stripped screw head so you can replace that wire. That old wire could easily cause a new relay to burn out. Once you get it out go to the hardware store and find a screw that will fit.

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