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Best glue for stoneware to stone bond?


Bridport Hill

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In my experience E6000 gets rubbery over time--you can pull it out of a seam, tho not easily. It does OK for sealing hairline cracks (on non-functional ware, if you have decided you can live with the crack in the first place) or for bonding things (like embellishments) to clay.  Personally, unless an embellishment is part of my piece, I would not pass on/sell/give work to someone else if it has been glued together in some way-it may fail eventually. I have also found it satisfactory for adhering thin-ish/flat-ish ceramic pieces to a backing, like canvas or wood.  

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Thank you for the replies. I am attaching a stone handle to a stoneware pot. The stone sets into a cupped piece so the glue should be mostly invisible. I had tried attachments with copper, but these seemed distracting and I like the cleaner look of just the stone and ceramic. Still pondering best choices, but that's the application I intend. 

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On 12/13/2019 at 4:24 AM, Bridport Hill said:

Thank you for the replies. I am attaching a stone handle to a stoneware pot. The stone sets into a cupped piece so the glue should be mostly invisible. I had tried attachments with copper, but these seemed distracting and I like the cleaner look of just the stone and ceramic. Still pondering best choices, but that's the application I intend. 

Four  things strike me here, one being it is a handle and therefore be used for picking the item up. This implies high sheer and high tensile strength. The second thing that strikes me is this may need to operate at elevated temperatures.  The third thing that strikes me, it is a pot and may require cleaning / washing, therefore water proof, Lastly it might be used for food products.

So for the service properties above I would pick an adhesive that works best under those conditions that apply..  

To me this leads to a specialized epoxy  or derivative of. It sounds complicated but if really needed,  google Masterbond or similar and you will find many serious adhesive used daily in industry mostly for fabrication. To me these are serious adhesives and provide longevity to the repair. Most of these manufactures have sites that will direct you towards a product depending on your service needs. Example below.

If none of the above is true then simple hardware store epoxy probably provides a quick economical fix and will likely be the strongest. There are many clear formulations available as well so the joint can be invisible.

 

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If the pot is going to be lifted with the handle I would be looking for a mechanical join rather than using an adhesive exclusively. Epoxy is great but in shear applications can fail. If you were to make another pot like this a mechanical join is less likely to fail, a hole drilled through the rock (carbide bit likely or possibly diamond) then a metal pin or ceramic post joining the two together would be stronger. Whichever adhesive you use get it on the largest surface area you can.

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  • 7 months later...
On 12/12/2019 at 7:13 PM, Mark C. said:

JB Weld epoxy is my go to for all things except wood.It waterproof and has ripped the fired glaze off porcelain before letting go.It goes on black but if you cut the edge its grey in color under the black.

JB Weld has a product called Wood Weld.  It has almost the exact color of a neutral stoneware such as Soldate.  If you use a dremel to take the shine off, it really disappears.

I buy it directly from JB Weld in the large squeeze tube size.  2 part.

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Another good one is Aves FIXIT Sculpt. I believe it's what Beth Cavener uses when joining her sculpture pieces. It can be modelled like clay but contains epoxy. Zero shrinkage, interior/exterior, clay like while working with it, 4 hour working time, dries off white / biege, can be painted.

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