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CactusPots

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  1. Will this be the largest span you've done? Since my shelves are 19" square, these pots will just about fill it up. I can't remember anything bigger. Every crack tells a story. Mostly, I think mine are forming and drying issues and not so much feet sticking to shelves. Also, I think the bonded silicon carbide and the advancers don't tend to stick to stoneware. What I was asking about is mostly concerning the 12" expanse of the bottom Isn't the largest shrinkage from wet to bone dry or maybe leather hard? I should do some measurement tiles to see when the largest shrinkage oc
  2. For the pots I pictured, I'm mostly worried about the bottom cracking. Am I supporting the feet or the bottom with the waster slab? My thinking was a slab across the bottom either taking the feet up or very nearly. Not right? I'm mostly interested in not having problems with the bisque fire. If the goal is just to prevent the feet from sticking, a layer of grog should do the trick. I've been told that there isn't much shrinkage in bisque, would the waster slab be intended for glaze fire? Most of my pots (probably not these) get cookies of sliced soft brick under each foot. Mos
  3. It was suggested here that I use a waster slab underneath to support the bottom of pots like these. The space between the feet is almost 12" and 1 1/2 " deep. A solid piece of clay like that might be 10 lbs or more and particularly difficult to dry thoroughly. Maybe something like a trivet? Quarter inch slab with lots of little feet? Or maybe just lots of inch and a half blocks? I don't think I've ever heard of a waster slab before.
  4. My observation on my pugmill is that it needs to be very full to work correctly. The best way to recycle clay is to mix scraps much wetter than you can work. I collect scraps in clay bags and add enough water to get the desired softness. Very soft. Then let the soft clay age for a least a couple of months. Getting all the air pockets out can be work in my pug mill as it holds more than 40 lbs. I use an inch and a half delrin rod to push the clay into the corners. The delrin is the best material I have found as it neither splinters nor mars the aluminum. The result is the best th
  5. This might be the first ceramics book I ever bought. It's probably in a more recent edition by now. It has the most detail on Thrixotropic clay of any book in my collection
  6. The way to make better pots is to make lots of pots. Winners and Losers.
  7. Minimizing and recovering from various kinds of problems are skill sets each potter has to develop. Some of it has to do with what kind of work you are making and where the potentials for problems lie. I agree some work is best discarded out of hand, especially in the bisqued state. Glaze load space is just too precious to run a 50/50 gamble. If I try to fix a bisqued piece, I usually rebisque it to see how the fix took. Personally, I'm a fan of paper slip and can fix almost anything in the green ware state. Not that I always do, because that clay is recyclable. I advise attempting
  8. I'm really fortunate to have my studio mostly outside because of where I live. Air flow is my dust control. If you live where the climate is not so hospitable, artificially controlling dust, temperature, humidity is considerably more difficult, I'm sure.
  9. My opinion is that where ever you live, you can adjust to the consistent conditions pretty well. It's where it varies wildly that it's irritating. Air movement is definitely the key, an industrial fan will move things right along.
  10. Kind of depends on what all you use the work table for. I think the assumption everyone is making is mostly wedging. If you want to pull moisture out of clay for any of several reasons, I like a poured plaster. If you use more than one color clay, 2 different canvas covers works nice. One can be mounted permanently and the other is on a removable frame. A little bit of a building project, but it certainly doesn't wear out if done well. Yeah, very heavy. My newest work table is the 6ft run off for the slab roller. Formica over plywood. Mostly for assembling handbuilt. Sometimes o
  11. What ales me is not enough ale in me.
  12. Nerd's assumption seems to be that the fines are missing from the recycle. That can't be the case for me. Most of my recycle is trimming due to my throwing an extra thick bottom and trimming the feet in. That part of the clay is hardly touched. I guess there isn't much call for this product if it's not available from our regular suppliers. Industrial supply usually means industrial quantities. I am fascinated by contemporary industrial ceramic magic. I wish more of it was readily available.
  13. So after Min mentioned Additive A in the post on pugmills, I found this post. No one actually responded positively to the original question here. Since the post is 3 years old, maybe that has changed. I can't find any pottery dealer listing Additive A. I think Laguna and Bailey are the biggest. It seems to be an industry ingredient that did not make it's way into our food supply. Internet search turned it up all right. $75 for 50lb bag. Not what I had in mind. It does seem to me like it would be useful in recycling clay. I find the stoneware I use is definitely short if I don'
  14. Make it salable at least if you do decide to go to another make.
  15. I have heard somewhere that some porcelains have an organic component that aids plasticity. Do you have any knowledge of this?
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